Why such a thin weight oil....???
#1
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Why such a thin weight oil....???
I am pretty suprised toyota chose to stick with 5w30 with the sc.... I personally will not use 5w30 in mine but 10w40 winter and summer.. what are your thoughts..? Could be the reason everyone complains about valve trane noise and bearing issues... Mine has had no noise since going to 10w40 synthetic...
#2
Stick with the 10w40. Good Call. Usually when you add more power (legit power) to the engine you should upgrade the oil that way it does not burn as quickly and it will protect all internals better.
Just make sure your oil that you are using has the CURRENT API Code. As of right now API has put out SM, before it was SL, so make sure you double check the BACK of the bottles of oil before you buy them
Reason being, API does that because they always make new mixtures to rid of any imperfections in previous mixes and will protect better than the other rating which was SL
So right now, make sure you keep your eye out on that
Current API Rating : SM
(I know it may seem like I was really trying to preach that, but trust me it is important to know that)
Just make sure your oil that you are using has the CURRENT API Code. As of right now API has put out SM, before it was SL, so make sure you double check the BACK of the bottles of oil before you buy them
Reason being, API does that because they always make new mixtures to rid of any imperfections in previous mixes and will protect better than the other rating which was SL
So right now, make sure you keep your eye out on that
Current API Rating : SM
(I know it may seem like I was really trying to preach that, but trust me it is important to know that)
#5
It's your call bro. Here's a helpful link that I found to better explain oil.
It's the car mechanic's bible on oil
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html
It's the car mechanic's bible on oil
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html
#6
Newer engines are designed to use thinner oil. With close tolerances it allows for better oiling. I have seen people, especially on Toyotas (Some of the newer model toyotas have had oiling issues here and there) switch to 10w-40 and start hearing all kinds of valve train clatter until the switched back. It is something that many mechanics had to get used to (my father included), but it works much better on newer engines. This methodology led to the advent of 0W-30 motor oil, which (if I am not mistaken) is already being used in some fords, or is on its way to being used.
With all of that said, when you start modifying the engine with boost you may be better off with heavier weight oil. But keep in mind your engines tolerances and design have not changed, so make a smart decision.
With all of that said, when you start modifying the engine with boost you may be better off with heavier weight oil. But keep in mind your engines tolerances and design have not changed, so make a smart decision.
#7
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Yes they are close tolerance, but the fact is the engine was not designed with boost in mind.... That is why I was suprised TRD did not make the call to go to a thicker weight oil. Engine will run hotter and thin the oil out allot more / break it down faster.
#8
Originally Posted by engifineer
With all of that said, when you start modifying the engine with boost you may be better off with heavier weight oil. But keep in mind your engines tolerances and design have not changed, so make a smart decision.
where are they ted! hehe. sorry I could resist.
You can look at the bible, or you can listen to the true god of information...that being engifineer
#9
^^ Definitely not a god Just know what I have picked up along the way. I think as long as the heavier weight oil doesnt cause any issues then you are ok. The trick is that when you are not running in hard boost the oil wont thin as much meaning it could have effects on the oiling system. I would just monitor oil pressure and temp and stop using it if you have a lot of clatter at start up and there after. If you use a good quality synthetic 5W-30 you should be ok for what the SC is offering I think. But higher boost and harder driving can have an effect as mentioned, so as always it depends on the application.
#10
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I went to a heavy oil from experience I have a brand new bottom end in my car if that tells ya anything. 5w30 is to thin boosted hehe. I feel the thin oil was a major cause in my engine destruction. That is why I made this post
#12
Ever consider a fully synthetic 0w40? seems like it would cover a larger range of operating temperatures allowing for protection all the way from cold starts to hot engine running temperatures. Any thoughts on this?
#15
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so...
running 5w-30 is best.
is there any other good alternative? i push my car hard a lot.
i use 5w-30 mobil 1 supersyn and usually the oil levels drop and turn darker and darker dependong on the use of my oil filter.
this time i used the FRAM tough guard filter (gray) and it started slowly depelting around 3k,
with the regular fram (orange) it went to 5k
and OEM... started at 2k.
i tink oil filters are the key but wanted to double check
or
is it jus my oil burning off?
pushing my car too hard?
just me?
somethign wrong with my car?
running 5w-30 is best.
is there any other good alternative? i push my car hard a lot.
i use 5w-30 mobil 1 supersyn and usually the oil levels drop and turn darker and darker dependong on the use of my oil filter.
this time i used the FRAM tough guard filter (gray) and it started slowly depelting around 3k,
with the regular fram (orange) it went to 5k
and OEM... started at 2k.
i tink oil filters are the key but wanted to double check
or
is it jus my oil burning off?
pushing my car too hard?
just me?
somethign wrong with my car?
#16
My first two oil changes I did myself. I used normal 5W30. Then 'stupid me' took it to the dealer for one of their "free" ones. That'll be the last...It's been rattling since. Especially when cold. I suppose they used the wrong stuff.
So, I'll be re-doing it myself. Never trusting them again...
It's also a good idea to make sure the engine is broken in good before switching to synthetic. Some also claim longer intervals between changes with synthetic...How long would YOU let it go?
4K? 5K? More??
So, I'll be re-doing it myself. Never trusting them again...
It's also a good idea to make sure the engine is broken in good before switching to synthetic. Some also claim longer intervals between changes with synthetic...How long would YOU let it go?
4K? 5K? More??
#17
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yes, very good to wait. On my new cars I usually do 1 oil change at 1000 miles with regular valvoline. Then at 4K miles I switch over to synthetic. My personal preference "not that it matters" is castrol syntec. I switched to 10w40 at 4K miles and had it in the car for the last 600 miles. Never a noise or rattle. Car runs glass smooth. I did the same with my 98 taco 4x4 2.7L which also asks for 5w30. Truck has been simply awsome for 118K miles so far, idles like glass and has every bit as much power as she did when new. Compression on the truck still shows dead on from when she had 2K miles on her "could be carbon helping that out"
#18
Is there not a 10w40 in Mobil 1 Supersyn? Is Castrol any good? Thats what I was running on my last fill and everything was about the same. Im running 5w30 Supersyn now so I think I'll just switch back to the Castrol.