Actually it is possible... We have a shop here that does only that...

We have it done on a variety of military engines and motors we work on... They've done shafts, pistons, and plungers for us, and have never had a probem... BUt it's quite costly too!...

Now I don't know the specific of how it's done and whatnot, but it is possible...

The whole cost effective end of things, again another unknown... Might be easier and less time consuming to just get a new one... Who knows?

 

I have used nothing but factory spec oil for nearly 3 years on boost. Just Royal Purple.

 

If you are doing regular rebuilds then by all means use 20w50. I would not recommend this the reason OEM manufactures require lower viscosity oil is closer engine clearances. The 5w20 is the requirement in newer tC's for a reason this allows the oil to pass through the and cool the bearings sufficiently if you use thicker oil it causes the bearings to over heat and fail premature. Even if your engine requires 5w30 and you are using 10w40 I have seen premature bearing wear and failure. I am not saying you will see it in 5,000 that is just ridiculuos for people to think but the engine was built with 150,000+ miles in mind and most will easily do this but use thicker oil and you will not get that kind of miles out of one of these engines.

 

^^Great info Nick.

 

Same here, and when i took my 06 motor apart last month it looked brand new on the inside! I was shocked at how good it looked.

 

Speaking from personal experience at shops using wrong oil. If you are doing regular oil changes and using good oil and filter you will not have any issues.

 

same here. 5w30 mobile 1 syntetic, oem oil filter..

switch after 10k miles from non syn to full syn

 

imo as long as you get adequate or good cooling you will be good with oem spec.. and maintenance too.. but oil analysis should be a good way to determine if you need to switch or not

 

+ 1 OEM Oil filter is the best you could get.

 

Way i look at it is..

Toyota built that motor.. Tested it above and behond...! With oem filter

why use anything diffrent?

Its purpose is to filter oil.. It does not become nessary to filter the oil more with more hp lol!

If anything a aftermarket filter with more filter inside would restrict oil flow!

OEM 4 TMFW!

 

Yeah, and the way I looked at it was..

If It's good enough for PTuning's 500+whp Time Attack tC, and it's good enough for Chris Rado's 700+whp Time Attack tC....then it must be good enough for me...

 

So based on all this info. Will i be fine using 5w30 once i go boosted?

 

^^yep.

 

Thanks

 

These are my recommendations based on 10+years of solid professional (everyday, 12+ hours a day) working with engines of all manufacturers. Take from them what you will.

OEM filters are good units.

The factory (toyota) recommends thinner oils not for the sake of tighter tolerances because they have been running tight tolerances since the 80's and they weren't running 0w20 or 5w20 then. They use this oil now for the sake of attaining higher MPG. Manufacturers get tax breaks or taxed more based on their CAFE (corporate average fuel economy- which is a number based on all the cars they make for a total average fuel economy of the company). If they make CAFE which is set by the government they don't get taxed, if they come in under the rating they get taxed, if they come in over they get a tax break. So the number one main reason they are running thinner oil is for higher fuel economy.

In racing when you are generating more horsepower you are doing one thing, making more heat. When you run a turbo CHRA that is oil cooled only you are forcing the engine oil to absorb more heat and attempt to transfer it to the factory engine cooler if equipped, which the 2AZ-FE does not come equipped with. So what you have is more heat from the cylinders, more heat from the turbo. What is the oil to do? Mainly it just gets hotter eventually reaching a point where the material in its additive packages start to break down. Generally you want your oil to go no higher than 200 degrees F. Synthetics can take more heat and as such should always be run in an engine designed to be raced or making double the factory horsepower.

I am not saying you MUST run 20w50 in your engine. However lets look at the situation for what it is. You have spent $4,000 dollars minimum on a quality turbo system, you have spent money on tuning, you have spent money on possibly building the engine etc..... So you want to risk that kind of cash for the sake of putting a thinner oil in your engine which cost the same as the thicker version? The heavier weight oils will take the added shock to the engine, crankshaft and other related parts and break down under all of that heat due to their compositions.

At this point it is proper insurance for your investment. You can run 5w30 if you want to. You really are just going to cause damage over time to the engine.

This is just based on my experience. Take from it what you like. Good luck guys.

 

would 10w30 be better than 5w30 don?

 

Yes.

10w40 is a minimum I recommend.

I run 20w50 in everything that makes 400hp or more.

 

I'll pass on the 20w50. If my engine fails in 5 years or 10, I would have been ready to drop another one in anyway.

 

To each their own, I wish you the best with your build

 

Thanks...thanks for info as well.