ZPI - PWR Air To Liquid IC - Done w/PIC - BLING
#61
Sciondad,
I looked but i didn't see any thanks from me, for find you the source to call and buy the PWR air to water setup. Sciondad bought the pump, exchanger and actual air to water barrel from Lanskey Racing. Specificially from Earl Lanskey, he's a big honda guy, but has a very good deal on these kits. I think the basic core kit was like 450 or so, then you just have to weld on two pipes on it and call it a day. so for the DIYer should cost you 600 max at the end of the day or you can get ZPI's no worry kit for a little more.
but WARNING, DO NOT (NEVER, DON'T, NO) tie this into your existing coolant system, that will HEAT your charge temps, not cool them. Your engine coolant is at 185-200 degrees at all times, we want coolant temps as close to ambevient as possible.
the correct way to setup the coolant is as follows:
buy a tank for this system, you can use a summit can or something, just need two ports.
output top port (closest to TB) to the fill port to the tank. from thank to pump to exchanger. from exchanger to input of barrel.
I looked but i didn't see any thanks from me, for find you the source to call and buy the PWR air to water setup. Sciondad bought the pump, exchanger and actual air to water barrel from Lanskey Racing. Specificially from Earl Lanskey, he's a big honda guy, but has a very good deal on these kits. I think the basic core kit was like 450 or so, then you just have to weld on two pipes on it and call it a day. so for the DIYer should cost you 600 max at the end of the day or you can get ZPI's no worry kit for a little more.
but WARNING, DO NOT (NEVER, DON'T, NO) tie this into your existing coolant system, that will HEAT your charge temps, not cool them. Your engine coolant is at 185-200 degrees at all times, we want coolant temps as close to ambevient as possible.
the correct way to setup the coolant is as follows:
buy a tank for this system, you can use a summit can or something, just need two ports.
output top port (closest to TB) to the fill port to the tank. from thank to pump to exchanger. from exchanger to input of barrel.
#62
Originally Posted by seen4ever
Sciondad,
I looked but i didn't see any thanks from me, for find you the source to call and buy the PWR air to water setup. Sciondad bought the pump, exchanger and actual air to water barrel from Lanskey Racing. Specificially from Earl Lanskey, he's a big honda guy, but has a very good deal on these kits. I think the basic core kit was like 450 or so, then you just have to weld on two pipes on it and call it a day. so for the DIYer should cost you 600 max at the end of the day or you can get ZPI's no worry kit for a little more.
but WARNING, DO NOT (NEVER, DON'T, NO) tie this into your existing coolant system, that will HEAT your charge temps, not cool them. Your engine coolant is at 185-200 degrees at all times, we want coolant temps as close to ambevient as possible.
the correct way to setup the coolant is as follows:
buy a tank for this system, you can use a summit can or something, just need two ports.
output top port (closest to TB) to the fill port to the tank. from thank to pump to exchanger. from exchanger to input of barrel.
I looked but i didn't see any thanks from me, for find you the source to call and buy the PWR air to water setup. Sciondad bought the pump, exchanger and actual air to water barrel from Lanskey Racing. Specificially from Earl Lanskey, he's a big honda guy, but has a very good deal on these kits. I think the basic core kit was like 450 or so, then you just have to weld on two pipes on it and call it a day. so for the DIYer should cost you 600 max at the end of the day or you can get ZPI's no worry kit for a little more.
but WARNING, DO NOT (NEVER, DON'T, NO) tie this into your existing coolant system, that will HEAT your charge temps, not cool them. Your engine coolant is at 185-200 degrees at all times, we want coolant temps as close to ambevient as possible.
the correct way to setup the coolant is as follows:
buy a tank for this system, you can use a summit can or something, just need two ports.
output top port (closest to TB) to the fill port to the tank. from thank to pump to exchanger. from exchanger to input of barrel.
#63
im wondering though... this all sounds like an awesome idea, but why do we not see such a setup more frequently? i mean, this is the first time ive ever seen such a thing to begin with. but it seems it has every positive, and almost no negatives (electricity drain, reliability not as high due to coolant/pump/fan/moving parts in general)
#65
Originally Posted by seen4ever
I think the basic core kit was like 450 or so, then you just have to weld on two pipes on it and call it a day. so for the DIYer should cost you 600 max at the end of the day or you can get ZPI's no worry kit for a little more.
#66
http://www.laskeyracing.com/
find the number and call it, remember its not plug & play or anything, just the basic barrel intercooler.
for people wanting to know why you don't see more W to A rather than A to A is due to the concept of ambevilent temps.
air to air intercoolers can cool at the coldest the outside air temp. which is impossible,, but that's the lowest possible.
air to water, has the same concept but one draw back. water can only get so cold after its hot. such as, when you boil water and take it off the burner, the water doesnt' instantly cool down. this is the delima with A-W intercoolers. this is also why i say get as big of a resevoir as you can, so you can use the amount of coolant to cool down the total. Plus if you have a big enough resevoir, on track days, you can actually turn your resevoir into an ice box and put ice into the bucket, this way it rapidly cools the barrel plus it will also actually be able to get cooler than ambevielent temps, which an air to air could never do.
find the number and call it, remember its not plug & play or anything, just the basic barrel intercooler.
for people wanting to know why you don't see more W to A rather than A to A is due to the concept of ambevilent temps.
air to air intercoolers can cool at the coldest the outside air temp. which is impossible,, but that's the lowest possible.
air to water, has the same concept but one draw back. water can only get so cold after its hot. such as, when you boil water and take it off the burner, the water doesnt' instantly cool down. this is the delima with A-W intercoolers. this is also why i say get as big of a resevoir as you can, so you can use the amount of coolant to cool down the total. Plus if you have a big enough resevoir, on track days, you can actually turn your resevoir into an ice box and put ice into the bucket, this way it rapidly cools the barrel plus it will also actually be able to get cooler than ambevielent temps, which an air to air could never do.
#68
There are also additives like 40 below that can drop coolant temps by as much as 40 degrees.
Forty Below: - Reduces coolant temperatures up to 40 degrees and prevents temperature from rising excessively while under heavy loads. Provides overheating protection by increasing the heat transfer rate between the coolant liquid and metal, thus requiring ample means of carrying the increased radiant heat away from the radiator. Assists cooling even when radiator is clogged or partially blocked from direct airflow.
There is another chemical that has to be used dedicated (no other coolant) that drops it even more. But, at $25 a gallon and it can't be used in winter because it will freeze....might want to think about using that chemical with an everyday driver.
Forty Below: - Reduces coolant temperatures up to 40 degrees and prevents temperature from rising excessively while under heavy loads. Provides overheating protection by increasing the heat transfer rate between the coolant liquid and metal, thus requiring ample means of carrying the increased radiant heat away from the radiator. Assists cooling even when radiator is clogged or partially blocked from direct airflow.
There is another chemical that has to be used dedicated (no other coolant) that drops it even more. But, at $25 a gallon and it can't be used in winter because it will freeze....might want to think about using that chemical with an everyday driver.
#70
hm ic so the water cooler can overheat if you run for a long enough time and the water is hot and doenst have time to cool down but cools at idle (no heat soak or little) less piping so less lag? what is the difference in lag? is it substantial, and probably heavier? . And fmic or air to air can overheat when the temperature outside is warm, lots of piping and more lag, but lighter. Did I understand this corectly? Or am I missing a huge piece of the whole thing?
just wondering but which would be more suitable for drag racing? How about daily drivers?
just wondering but which would be more suitable for drag racing? How about daily drivers?
#71
Also just wondering how about an air to air with water or methanol injection how are the benefits on that? or is that simply extra hassle unless you have a track only car?
Hehe so do you plan on dynoing that beast at all sciondad.
Hehe so do you plan on dynoing that beast at all sciondad.
#72
Originally Posted by ScionDad
Any inputs would be appreciated if something is wrong with this setup.
What's the GPM of the pump??
#73
DO NOT RUN IT OFF THE ENGINE COOLANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i really can't emphasize that enough, if you run engine coolant through the A-W intercooler, your charges temps will be hotter than your previous hot-piping of the turbo. you have to run a tank system and have the A-W setup to have its own coolant.
i really can't emphasize that enough, if you run engine coolant through the A-W intercooler, your charges temps will be hotter than your previous hot-piping of the turbo. you have to run a tank system and have the A-W setup to have its own coolant.
#74
Originally Posted by Gortok
Originally Posted by ScionDad
Any inputs would be appreciated if something is wrong with this setup.
What's the GPM of the pump??
Nominal voltage
UN 12 V
Delivery
V 1200 dm3 h–1
Delivery pressure
p 0,3 bar
Direction of rotation
R
Type of duty
S 1
Degree of protection
IP 5 K 4*
Weight
1,0 kg
Part number
0 392 022 002