ZPIracing turbo kits in stock*****Discussion thread !!!1
08-03-2006, 08:46 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by zx12guy
Anyone know which injectors (rc550's or their own PnP 550s) they are shipping out with the stage 1 kits?
08-04-2006, 01:12 PM
#46
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I see that the FMIC kit is 950 and it says it comes with HKS and the Flange.. what if you already have that.. how much would it be for the FMIC kit can you PM me a price thanks. And I will be putting on your stage 0 Kit in this sunday and will be taking lots of pictures 
08-04-2006, 06:00 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by ProshopXB
Originally Posted by zx12guy
Anyone know which injectors (rc550's or their own PnP 550s) they are shipping out with the stage 1 kits?
I have 20+ sets of these in stock, and ready to ship.
08-07-2006, 07:44 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by wtc_81
I see that the FMIC kit is 950 and it says it comes with HKS and the Flange.. what if you already have that.. how much would it be for the FMIC kit can you PM me a price thanks. And I will be putting on your stage 0 Kit in this sunday and will be taking lots of pictures
Kit is 750 with out BOV or flange
08-10-2006, 06:19 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by OuterHeaven
I am running one (and have been since Nov. 05) and I like it a lot. Not too many problems and definitely nothing serious. It seems to run like a champ but definitely get the HKS blow off valve.
also are you unning a I/C and emanage ?
thanks.
08-10-2006, 06:34 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by Kumitsu
Originally Posted by OuterHeaven
I am running one (and have been since Nov. 05) and I like it a lot. Not too many problems and definitely nothing serious. It seems to run like a champ but definitely get the HKS blow off valve.
also are you unning a I/C and emanage ?
thanks.
By the last sentence in the paragraph..."definitely get the HKS blow off valve", I would assume he means his "not to many problems" would consist of the vehicle stalling. As the HKS is about the best BOV that you can still vent to the atmosphere and get rid of the stalling issues. Not completely though, as if it's realy, REALY hot outside like it has been this summer, you might experience stalling if the car is set to run rich, which I believe the Stage 0's due that from running on stock ECU.
08-10-2006, 09:30 PM
#57
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I am kind of considering a stage 0 to replace the supercharger...but it is like a very low priority...Is there anything I would not need in the stage 0 kit? Or would I just buy the kit and it would work...I know I don't need the oil pan, because the TRD one is perfect as it already has the return tap in it. I am guessing the 2600 price tag is what it is and nothing can be done about that. Oh, and do they have any in stock??
Oh, and do they provide something with the kit to eliminate any CEL problems?
Oh, and do they provide something with the kit to eliminate any CEL problems?
08-10-2006, 10:08 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by PghtC
I am kind of considering a stage 0 to replace the supercharger...but it is like a very low priority...Is there anything I would not need in the stage 0 kit? Or would I just buy the kit and it would work...I know I don't need the oil pan, because the TRD one is perfect as it already has the return tap in it. I am guessing the 2600 price tag is what it is and nothing can be done about that. Oh, and do they have any in stock??
Oh, and do they provide something with the kit to eliminate any CEL problems?
Oh, and do they provide something with the kit to eliminate any CEL problems?
I think you are set then. The $2600 is the cheapest turbokit on the market. ZPI currently owes NO ONE any turbokits. Therefore, there is no back-order, and they are instock if you want one.
As for the CEL problems, you can thank Zero for this write-up:
Originally Posted by zer0
This DIY is for an EVO, but the same applies for the tC. You need to attach this to your S-PIPE not the header.
Notes before starting
- you might have space for only 1 spark plug anti-fouler, sometimes using 1 will work/sometimes not
- having an electric drill helps out tremendously , those battery operated ones dont have that much power; they will still work but will be a pain
- this may still not solve your problem of the light; a small amount of people that try this 'quick fix' still cant get the light to go off
STEP 1
-purchase 2 spark plug anti foulers at your local auto parts store
-18 mm size
-made by HELP brand / part number 42002
-HELP has also another part number 42009 and are shorter in length than the 42002, i have heard they worked , but i am not 100 percent
STEP 2
-disconnect the negative terminal on your battery. this will reset your ecu
-take one of the anti foulers and drill out its center using a 1/2 bit ,
-this will increase its hole size and allow your stock o2 sensor to fit
STEP 3
-screw the drilled spark plug anti-fouler on top of the original
-be sure to use some kind of anti-seize on the treads. in case you need to remove your fix with ease
STEP 4
-unscrew your stock o2 sensor and place your cel / ses fix in
-use anti seize on the threads
-clean your cell (by wiping it off with a paper towel)
STEP 5
-reinstall your o2 sensor
-use anti seize on the threads
STEP 6
-reconnect your battery (your ecu is reset)
-you have just solved the problem of the 'damn light keeps coming on'
ps. its cost me 8 dollars for the pack of 2 spark plug anti-foulers
Credit: Jakeg97@EvoM.net
Notes before starting
- you might have space for only 1 spark plug anti-fouler, sometimes using 1 will work/sometimes not
- having an electric drill helps out tremendously , those battery operated ones dont have that much power; they will still work but will be a pain
- this may still not solve your problem of the light; a small amount of people that try this 'quick fix' still cant get the light to go off
STEP 1
-purchase 2 spark plug anti foulers at your local auto parts store
-18 mm size
-made by HELP brand / part number 42002
-HELP has also another part number 42009 and are shorter in length than the 42002, i have heard they worked , but i am not 100 percent
STEP 2
-disconnect the negative terminal on your battery. this will reset your ecu
-take one of the anti foulers and drill out its center using a 1/2 bit ,
-this will increase its hole size and allow your stock o2 sensor to fit
STEP 3
-screw the drilled spark plug anti-fouler on top of the original
-be sure to use some kind of anti-seize on the treads. in case you need to remove your fix with ease
STEP 4
-unscrew your stock o2 sensor and place your cel / ses fix in
-use anti seize on the threads
-clean your cell (by wiping it off with a paper towel)
STEP 5
-reinstall your o2 sensor
-use anti seize on the threads
STEP 6
-reconnect your battery (your ecu is reset)
-you have just solved the problem of the 'damn light keeps coming on'
ps. its cost me 8 dollars for the pack of 2 spark plug anti-foulers
Credit: Jakeg97@EvoM.net
08-10-2006, 10:49 PM
#60
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Originally Posted by PghtC
thanks...yeah, I already spent nearly 4 grand on the s/c and if I do switch, I would rather not spend another 4-5 grand...