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2 Ohms 4 Ohms Dual 4 ohms...Confusion clarification please

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Old 03-31-2007, 06:41 AM
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Default 2 Ohms 4 Ohms Dual 4 ohms...Confusion clarification please

So I bought two Thunder 4500 T4510-45
10" dual 4 ohm 225 watts rms

I am surely confused.

I was looking at the ways to set them up and it was showing how to make them into 1 ohm
(which I understand is just for feeling)

I was wondering...Do you get an amp that is lower wattage if you are just going to set it to 1 ohm...or even 2 ohms

Ask if you have no idea what I am saying...
Basically I am going to buy a 2 channel amp that goes 250 watts rms at 4 ohms
I was wondering if I was to do this 1 ohm setup would it work properly without EXPLODING....

Any links for clarification in stupid terms on how all this ohm stuff works would help also

Thanks you
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Old 03-31-2007, 03:59 PM
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with your dual voice coil subs, if you wire them in parallel and them combine them into one channel your gunna be pushing a 1 ohm load. in this situation your better off getting a mono subwoofer amp that is 1 ohm stable. i have an orion hcca-d1200, which is 1 ohm stable, pushing 2 JL Audio 10's and is good for 600 watts rms. something like this would be perfect for your setup.
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Old 03-31-2007, 04:05 PM
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also fo ryou fyi... if you amp runs at 2 ohms and that is the lowest imp.. then if you run 1 ohm you'll burn your amp.. most likely... so if your amp can only go down to 4 ohms or set for 4 ohms then 2 ohm or 1 ohm sub setup will kill it.. i'm sure that's right
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Old 03-31-2007, 04:34 PM
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Most amps won't run down to 1 ohm unless they are competition amps and then you are talking about 2,000 want amps....Dual subs are made just for the wiring configurations and thats it
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueTC06
Most amps won't run down to 1 ohm unless they are competition amps and then you are talking about 2,000 want amps....Dual subs are made just for the wiring configurations and thats it

So most likely I cant buy a mono amp and run them for 1 ohm without it blowing?
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:39 PM
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It depends if that amp is able to run that low a resistance. And plenty of "non-competition" amps run that low. A Nine.1 runs at 1ohm easily.

You don't need two channels for 2 subs unless you plan on crossing them over at different frequencies. So yes, a mono-block amp would be ideal.
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:43 PM
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Well if they are RMS at 225 at 4 ohms how much power do you think they'd require if I took two of them and ran them 1 ohm?
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:47 PM
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Umm, probably 450. I'd get 500 watts RMS, the subs will soak up that extra 25 each.

It would be hard to find that amount at 1ohm. You could wire it like this to achieve 4ohms:

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Old 03-31-2007, 05:54 PM
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Hmmm well I am looking for a real nice crisp sound that doesnt completely hit everything cause I already have one big sub haha
Got any ideas?
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:57 PM
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I have a Nine.2x that puts out 600x1 @4ohm, I love the thing! You could leave the gain down so you're not seeing all 600 if you don't want to run the risk of too much wattage.

Sorry if I am being redundant, I don't know how vast your knowledge of car audio is.
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:03 PM
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you'd need to find an amp that puts out 56 watts and is one ohm stable. They don't make amps like that. Usually 1 ohm is reserved so that the user can make power upwards of 1000watts or more without spending a billion dollars to get it.

what you need to do is find a mono or two channel amplifier that does, 225 watts or 75% of that at 4 ohms. or find a two channel amp that can be bridge and is stable at 2ohms that does @112.5 watts or 75% of that at 4ohms.

By decreasing the ohm load all you're doing is getting more power out of a smaller amp, but at the cost of sound quality.
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:05 PM
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Not toooooo vast...I know the basics

How to set up a single sub...
Not multiple
This whole crossover and running parallel stuff through me off guard when I opened the box to my new subs haha. I think I might want to run it at 2 ohms since it says there is a way?...
Because buying a sub that runs 2 ohms is a lot cheaper haha...
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:11 PM
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dont' forget amps push out more power depending on the electricty My akpine amp will give me a little under 400 watts on the 3/4 channel bridged at 12 volts.

If you want a crisp sound that pounds you'll need to look at higher wattage subs and run that at 4 ohms. Honestly it'll be easier to do a 4 ohm system, it's easier cause there is no math, you will just need to wire everything and match wattage numbers from the subs to the wattage numbers of the amp. Basically if you decid to go 2ohms take the amp first make sure it is 2 ohm stable then take the 4ohm amp wattage and double it. there you go. I've hade three sets of subs in my car. one was a all of them were 4 ohm set ups. They really hit very hard and sound was great. The only difference in each set up was the wattage from the amp to the subs.
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:11 PM
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awww i see...

So for sound quality its probably safer I leave it at the 4 ohms?
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ty_Max
Not toooooo vast...I know the basics

How to set up a single sub...
Not multiple
This whole crossover and running parallel stuff through me off guard when I opened the box to my new subs haha. I think I might want to run it at 2 ohms since it says there is a way?...
Because buying a sub that runs 2 ohms is a lot cheaper haha...
You can run a single D4 sub at 2ohms, not two subs.
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:13 PM
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O great now I have a predicament...
I forgot about the wires that go to the head unit for the audio O_o...
I really do not feel like taking it all apart again haha...is there any way to split it so I can just plug it into both?
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:15 PM
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You can use a Line-Out Converter on the rear speaker wires, but if your head unit has pre-outs, I highly suggest using them if you want the cleanest sound.
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:17 PM
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GROWL....
Great now I get to unassembled one side of my car...
What about the wire that tells the head unit to turn the amp on...most likely I can split that right?...

Just the red and white wires I have to feed back right?
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:22 PM
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Do you have an aftermarket HU? If so, most of them come with a designated remote turn-on wire. I just used a crimp to connect that, and ran it to the back of my car with the RCAs.

I'm assuming that the "red and white wires" are RCA cables? Yeah, you'll want to run those to your HU if you have pre-outs.

What HU do you have?
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:24 PM
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Alpine 9856

I think Ive decided to take the RCA cables and use a Y-splitter thing haha.
And as for the remote turn on wire I am going to cut it and strip it so it makes it to both...

Hopefully that works

Zebman you are most likely the most help I have ever gotten on here ...you must be bored
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