2nd tC with HUD (install from hell) PICS & VIDS
#22
Alright guys and gals, so here is what happend last time, and what I have done this time around...
Note: Figure out which wires to tap for what and then disconeect the negative (black) terminal off the battery, cover it up so that it doesn't touch anything.
First i started by removing the shift **** and section with the shift boot. Just unscrew the shift **** and lift the plastic. Something I didnt do in the first install was cover up the top of the shifter, ended up putting a small scratch on the Time/Temp LCD when i was taking it off, so i just used some Bounty and a rubberband, like a ghetto condom
After that I took off the climate control and also took out the radio. I do not have a pic, as to all the wiring. The HUD requires only 5 wires, so its not too bad. The unit itself has two components, the display and the mini-computer. I put the display behind the registration sticker (Circled in Blue) and put the mini-computer on the bottom of the area under the glove-box in the ECU area (Circled in Green).
1 - Ground: Behind the screw of the radio (Circled in Red)
2 - Voltage (Always on): For this i tapped the wire that keeps the Radio memory going. I do not remember which one it is, but a few lucky shots of the volage tester found it.
3 - Voltage (Ignition on): For this I added something called add a circuit to the fuse in the driver's wheel well. I tapped the fuse for the car lighter. From that fuse i ran to a switch on the switch panel and then across the dash to the ECU area behind the glove box. (If someone is interested I can take a pic)
4 - Tachometer: Just tapped the wire coming out of the ECU.
5 - Speedo: Also, just tapped the wire coming out of the ECU.
Here is a pic of the tapped ECU:
The pinout for the ECU is here:
Download ECU_Pinout.pdf
(You have to click next page 3 times but you can download after that)
My initial intentions were to flush mount the HUD in the dash but that did not happen since i couldn't get the A-Pillars off. I was pulling the panels from the top (this doesnt work). If you don't have SRS you have no issues, since those clips are easy to get off, but SRS cars have a simple christmas tree/khanukah bush clip on the
bottom and a super clip on top. The top clip gives about an inch. In the case of an accident it will give an inch and give ample room for the side airbag and the security strap to fly out but make sure the a-pillar panel doesn't ram you in the face. Apparently the way to get it off is to get under the door guard at the level of the SRS sign and pull and wiggle until you can get a grip on the front windshield side. At that point pull like its the last episode of survivor until it pops off. Pull at the areas circled in red. The tree clip location is circled in green and the super clip is circled in blue. When you pull the panel off, make sure the wich clip circled in blue is still durable and in the frame of the car. If you have to slap the a-pillar with a rubber mallet or your fist to get the super clip back in, you don't need to worry about replacing it, even though thats what it says in the manuals.
The above pic. also does a good job to show how far down the airbag/strap extend into the a-pillar.
So, once the a-pillars, center console, glove box, and guages are removed you are ready to remove the dash. The clips and screws are nicely drawn on the image. It is just 13 clips and 7 screws. Unscrew the screws. The two bolts on the passenger airbag are pretty dang tight (circled in red), so be careful, i ripped my knuckle open when the wrench slipped. Also, make sure to tighten them up as well. IMPORTANT: DISCONNECT THE YELLOW AIRBAG CONNECTOR. Open both doors and then, just pop off the 8 clips in front of the driver and passenger side and the dash lifts out with some wiggling. Be careful as the airbag is still attached to the bottom of the dash.
Here is a shot of the car without the dash...
So then comes the fun part of cutting a hole in the dash. I traced out the location of the HUD in pencil, but traced it smaller. Its always a good idea to cut a smaller hole and then open it up slowly. The hole in the dash you see in the pic is where the wire came up before, from the first install.
Next I used a box cutter to get through the foam on the top of the dash down to the plastic. I used a wide flat head screwdriver to get the foam off.
Useing my handy Dremel tool (old but handy) i shaved out the plastic area.
I cut open some tubing I had in the garage to use as trim, it was maybe 1/2" in diameter. I opened the hole a bit more until the HUD was a tight fit, I then cut and fit the tubing to the best of my ability.
The hole was a really tight fit since the tubing was a bit over 1/16" thick. I slowly worked the HUD into the hole and tried to make sure the trim stayed put.
In order to secure the HUD from under the dash I shaped some plastic, and cut a hole in the middle. I would secure the plastic into a mounting screw on the HUD. I then used some super clue to attach the plastic strip to the bottom of the dash. It did not have to be a super strong mount since there is a ventilation hose that will be supporting the HUD from the bottom, so its not an issue.
Then came the fun job of putting everything back together, and here are the results. I am pretty dam happy except for the left corner, it seems a bit high, but its due the curve of the dash. I couldn't get it lower since the ventilation hose was keeping it up. Other than that, I am grinning ear to ear....
I have the HUD set up so that it shows speed in numbers and the RPM's on the top slider. But, if the speed is 0 MPH for a few seconds, the numbers switch to RPM's as well, to help with getting off the line, or out of the parking spot, lol.
I am uploading the VIDS to YOUTUBE now, they should be ready soon, it takes YouTube some time to get them encoded. Please excuse the horrible music on the second vid, every station was playing crap.
HUD starting up when the car starts
HUD in Action
Its a bit hard to get the camera to focus, sorry about that. The reflection really is crystal clear, but to does have a small amount of doubling, this is because the image HUD reflects off the inside and outside layer of the glass. But, its very minute. They have some film that came with the HUD to solve this problem, but i dont like how it looks on a small patch of windshield.
Note: Figure out which wires to tap for what and then disconeect the negative (black) terminal off the battery, cover it up so that it doesn't touch anything.
First i started by removing the shift **** and section with the shift boot. Just unscrew the shift **** and lift the plastic. Something I didnt do in the first install was cover up the top of the shifter, ended up putting a small scratch on the Time/Temp LCD when i was taking it off, so i just used some Bounty and a rubberband, like a ghetto condom
After that I took off the climate control and also took out the radio. I do not have a pic, as to all the wiring. The HUD requires only 5 wires, so its not too bad. The unit itself has two components, the display and the mini-computer. I put the display behind the registration sticker (Circled in Blue) and put the mini-computer on the bottom of the area under the glove-box in the ECU area (Circled in Green).
1 - Ground: Behind the screw of the radio (Circled in Red)
2 - Voltage (Always on): For this i tapped the wire that keeps the Radio memory going. I do not remember which one it is, but a few lucky shots of the volage tester found it.
3 - Voltage (Ignition on): For this I added something called add a circuit to the fuse in the driver's wheel well. I tapped the fuse for the car lighter. From that fuse i ran to a switch on the switch panel and then across the dash to the ECU area behind the glove box. (If someone is interested I can take a pic)
4 - Tachometer: Just tapped the wire coming out of the ECU.
5 - Speedo: Also, just tapped the wire coming out of the ECU.
Here is a pic of the tapped ECU:
The pinout for the ECU is here:
Download ECU_Pinout.pdf
(You have to click next page 3 times but you can download after that)
My initial intentions were to flush mount the HUD in the dash but that did not happen since i couldn't get the A-Pillars off. I was pulling the panels from the top (this doesnt work). If you don't have SRS you have no issues, since those clips are easy to get off, but SRS cars have a simple christmas tree/khanukah bush clip on the
bottom and a super clip on top. The top clip gives about an inch. In the case of an accident it will give an inch and give ample room for the side airbag and the security strap to fly out but make sure the a-pillar panel doesn't ram you in the face. Apparently the way to get it off is to get under the door guard at the level of the SRS sign and pull and wiggle until you can get a grip on the front windshield side. At that point pull like its the last episode of survivor until it pops off. Pull at the areas circled in red. The tree clip location is circled in green and the super clip is circled in blue. When you pull the panel off, make sure the wich clip circled in blue is still durable and in the frame of the car. If you have to slap the a-pillar with a rubber mallet or your fist to get the super clip back in, you don't need to worry about replacing it, even though thats what it says in the manuals.
The above pic. also does a good job to show how far down the airbag/strap extend into the a-pillar.
So, once the a-pillars, center console, glove box, and guages are removed you are ready to remove the dash. The clips and screws are nicely drawn on the image. It is just 13 clips and 7 screws. Unscrew the screws. The two bolts on the passenger airbag are pretty dang tight (circled in red), so be careful, i ripped my knuckle open when the wrench slipped. Also, make sure to tighten them up as well. IMPORTANT: DISCONNECT THE YELLOW AIRBAG CONNECTOR. Open both doors and then, just pop off the 8 clips in front of the driver and passenger side and the dash lifts out with some wiggling. Be careful as the airbag is still attached to the bottom of the dash.
Here is a shot of the car without the dash...
So then comes the fun part of cutting a hole in the dash. I traced out the location of the HUD in pencil, but traced it smaller. Its always a good idea to cut a smaller hole and then open it up slowly. The hole in the dash you see in the pic is where the wire came up before, from the first install.
Next I used a box cutter to get through the foam on the top of the dash down to the plastic. I used a wide flat head screwdriver to get the foam off.
Useing my handy Dremel tool (old but handy) i shaved out the plastic area.
I cut open some tubing I had in the garage to use as trim, it was maybe 1/2" in diameter. I opened the hole a bit more until the HUD was a tight fit, I then cut and fit the tubing to the best of my ability.
The hole was a really tight fit since the tubing was a bit over 1/16" thick. I slowly worked the HUD into the hole and tried to make sure the trim stayed put.
In order to secure the HUD from under the dash I shaped some plastic, and cut a hole in the middle. I would secure the plastic into a mounting screw on the HUD. I then used some super clue to attach the plastic strip to the bottom of the dash. It did not have to be a super strong mount since there is a ventilation hose that will be supporting the HUD from the bottom, so its not an issue.
Then came the fun job of putting everything back together, and here are the results. I am pretty dam happy except for the left corner, it seems a bit high, but its due the curve of the dash. I couldn't get it lower since the ventilation hose was keeping it up. Other than that, I am grinning ear to ear....
I have the HUD set up so that it shows speed in numbers and the RPM's on the top slider. But, if the speed is 0 MPH for a few seconds, the numbers switch to RPM's as well, to help with getting off the line, or out of the parking spot, lol.
I am uploading the VIDS to YOUTUBE now, they should be ready soon, it takes YouTube some time to get them encoded. Please excuse the horrible music on the second vid, every station was playing crap.
HUD starting up when the car starts
HUD in Action
Its a bit hard to get the camera to focus, sorry about that. The reflection really is crystal clear, but to does have a small amount of doubling, this is because the image HUD reflects off the inside and outside layer of the glass. But, its very minute. They have some film that came with the HUD to solve this problem, but i dont like how it looks on a small patch of windshield.
#25
Originally Posted by Enthusiast
Are these HUD kits universal or only for the tC cause I really want on in the Z28
#31
Can you customize the display and if you want, turn it off? adjust the brightness of the display in case the sun washes it out?
I think this is an awesome idea, and you did a nice CLEAN install. That's what I can appreciate. Nice and clean, looks stock! AWESOME job!
I think this is an awesome idea, and you did a nice CLEAN install. That's what I can appreciate. Nice and clean, looks stock! AWESOME job!
#32
Senior Member
Scion Justice League of America
SL Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 5,594
It was MY idea.... ;P
yeah, you can dim/brighten the display... or wire it to have it turn off and such with a switch I guess...
I have a video of mine on another thread around here somewhere too...
If you want an easier install, you can mount like mine, which eliminates the neccesity to pull the dash off... (I just didn't want the display directly in front of me)
yeah, you can dim/brighten the display... or wire it to have it turn off and such with a switch I guess...
I have a video of mine on another thread around here somewhere too...
If you want an easier install, you can mount like mine, which eliminates the neccesity to pull the dash off... (I just didn't want the display directly in front of me)
#34
HOLLA at WeDriveScions. He had done the same thing first and nudged me in the right direction, and then i got crazy and did some scrazy stuff, here is his original thread...
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...&highlight=hud
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...&highlight=hud
#39
Unfortunately, I was inspired by a Pontiac Grand Am... "Shivers"... They had OEM Huds in some models... pretty neat for a crappy american car brand... LoL...
I can't figure out just yet how I am going to incorporate one into my classic mini... LoL... I got to do my engine swap first!
I can't figure out just yet how I am going to incorporate one into my classic mini... LoL... I got to do my engine swap first!