Alternative Battery to Optima yellow top
#21
"Block" = engine metal.
The alternator should only have one large gauge wire terminal, positive. The negative IS the metal of the casing and engine block/mounting bracket.
Matt put a new chassis connection under the battery tray, on the frame.
The alternator should only have one large gauge wire terminal, positive. The negative IS the metal of the casing and engine block/mounting bracket.
Matt put a new chassis connection under the battery tray, on the frame.
#22
Well I knew that, but i'd prefer to use where the factory connection is. Is it the connection under the plastic valve cover, above the alternator?
If there's only one terminal on the alt, then why are there two wires coming off of it? I'd get pictures and circle what i'm referring to, but the car is outside in the dark right now.
I didn't have a problem with the lights dimming before I tuned my sub. But I went to a piece of desolate farmland and tuned it, and now it dims really bad on almost any hit.
If there's only one terminal on the alt, then why are there two wires coming off of it? I'd get pictures and circle what i'm referring to, but the car is outside in the dark right now.
I didn't have a problem with the lights dimming before I tuned my sub. But I went to a piece of desolate farmland and tuned it, and now it dims really bad on almost any hit.
#24
Haha, damn. You've got quite the tangle in those pictures.
That explains the alternator pole. Is the chassis ground the bolt in the top picture near the fuse box? And for the block connection, is that the silver wire near the engine oil cap?
Another question, are battery clamps made specifically for the positve or negative post? I have one that I didn't end up using, and would use it for the negative post connections if I could.
That explains the alternator pole. Is the chassis ground the bolt in the top picture near the fuse box? And for the block connection, is that the silver wire near the engine oil cap?
Another question, are battery clamps made specifically for the positve or negative post? I have one that I didn't end up using, and would use it for the negative post connections if I could.
#25
yes, yes.
i sanded off all the paint ont he chassis + engine block connection points until they were shiny.
the wiring mess on the battery is now fixed, i've got an optima w/ sideposts so it doesnt look as bad.
i sanded off all the paint ont he chassis + engine block connection points until they were shiny.
the wiring mess on the battery is now fixed, i've got an optima w/ sideposts so it doesnt look as bad.
#36
Originally Posted by rocketgyrl
>4ga.
Plus, that battery terminal is marked as positive. Would it be bad to use it on my negative terminal? I mean, conductive metal is conductive metal, I don't see how it could hurt.
#38
Well, I got it all done. The terminals were different sizes, so the clamp was too big for the negative terminal. I'll be buying a negative specific clamp soon.
As for dimming, it was greatly diminished, but it's still there. I'm hoping that with the alternator turning above idle rpms, the dimming won't be there while i'm driving.
As for dimming, it was greatly diminished, but it's still there. I'm hoping that with the alternator turning above idle rpms, the dimming won't be there while i'm driving.
#39
^ That's exactly right, once over 2k RPM it should be fine. Autosound competitors sometimes set their idle around that so there's no lack of power while judging is in progress, with the car idling.
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Kodokan_4
Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Drivetrain & Power
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12-04-2004 01:34 AM