Another possibility with the OEM Bazooka VSE
#1
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Scikotics
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Another possibility with the OEM Bazooka VSE
The boys at SR Audio strike again!
After hearing a car that had a Memphis Audio system installed, I just HAD to have the same system put in my car. So Shaun@SR Audio did some magic. He put a 5 channel amp (it actually fit in one of the cubbies that sits on top of the spare), M-class components front and rear, and........
Their M-class 10" DVC sub in the OEM bazooka box. Box was gutted, filled with some tiger hair to fill up some of the inside airspace, and the face was leveled by removing the gain **** and filling the hole with MDF and some glue.
We also added some additional sound deadening material to the mounting holes to make sure there would be a seal once the box was remounted.
The sub sounds amazing in this enclosure.
After hearing a car that had a Memphis Audio system installed, I just HAD to have the same system put in my car. So Shaun@SR Audio did some magic. He put a 5 channel amp (it actually fit in one of the cubbies that sits on top of the spare), M-class components front and rear, and........
Their M-class 10" DVC sub in the OEM bazooka box. Box was gutted, filled with some tiger hair to fill up some of the inside airspace, and the face was leveled by removing the gain **** and filling the hole with MDF and some glue.
We also added some additional sound deadening material to the mounting holes to make sure there would be a seal once the box was remounted.
The sub sounds amazing in this enclosure.
#2
Re: Another possibility with the OEM Bazooka VSE
Box was gutted, filled with some tiger hair to fill up some of the inside airspace
#3
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Scikotics
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That is correct, sir. The box itself is quite large and ported to make the cruddy sub that Bazooka includes sound "ok".
If you are going to SEAL the box as Shaun did, you want to reduce the internal air volume to what the sub would consider optimal. In this case, I think Shaun read that it was around 0.75 cubic feet.
If you are going to SEAL the box as Shaun did, you want to reduce the internal air volume to what the sub would consider optimal. In this case, I think Shaun read that it was around 0.75 cubic feet.
#4
Typically, the bigger a sealed box is.......the better. That's why they make polyfil and such products. Tod determine if a box shoule be ported or not....I beleive the equasion is.......2Vsubof-. Had to look that one up! Forgot it for a minute.
#5
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Scikotics
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Well, I let shaun work his magic, and it sounds absolutely amazing. I won't claim to be the supreme master of car audio - but I can say whatever it is he did, it works quite well.
#7
Originally Posted by watcher1307
Typically, the bigger a sealed box is.......the better. That's why they make polyfil and such products. Tod determine if a box shoule be ported or not....I beleive the equasion is.......2Vsubof-. Had to look that one up! Forgot it for a minute.
That is a good idea! I have been looking into getting the similiar box in the corner. It takes up little room and is not visible when the hatch is closed.
#8
Actually, there is a formula for determining weather a box should be ported or not. The formula is 2Vsubof-. It uses the sub's specs and the box's specs in the calculation.
A bigger box will always provide deeper bass. Weather the box is sealed or ported. Provided, of course, that the proper port tuning frequency is utilized.
A bigger box will always provide deeper bass. Weather the box is sealed or ported. Provided, of course, that the proper port tuning frequency is utilized.
#10
Originally Posted by watcher1307
Actually, there is a formula for determining weather a box should be ported or not. The formula is 2Vsubof-. It uses the sub's specs and the box's specs in the calculation.
A bigger box will always provide deeper bass. Weather the box is sealed or ported. Provided, of course, that the proper port tuning frequency is utilized.
A bigger box will always provide deeper bass. Weather the box is sealed or ported. Provided, of course, that the proper port tuning frequency is utilized.
Taken from www.the12volt.com:
The smaller the box is, the less its ability is to go low. On the flipside though, the smaller it is, the more power it can take.
#11
That rule makes sense. However there are times when it doesn't make sense. If you were to take a sub, and put it into a tiny box, it wouldn't be able to take unlimited power. This is not because the cone won't be restrained from vibration, wich is why using a small box is benneficial. It's because of the thermal power handling capabilities of the voice coil.
When using a very large box, even at worst, the sub would use it's "air free" charestics. I would say that it would have to be a very large box for this to be the case. So large in fact that the volume of air outside the box would be equil to the volume of air inside of the box. This is of course presuming that the windows are up, and the doors are closed.
These, being the extremes of box size, are possible, but give us a useable guideline for determining optimum box size. Granted, a larger box will allow the cone more "travel" distance, and a smaller box will allow slightly higher power handling charestics, at the cost of "travel" distance.
These things however, aren't the only guidelines in determining optimum box size. For example, the ability of a subwoofer to change frequencies is determined by box size. Ok, if you've got a small box, and are trying to change the rate at wich the cone travels(frequency), it will take less time. This is because the small box controls the excursion of the cone.
Another factor for determining optimum box size is that a larger box will allow the sub to move more air. This is because a larger box, will allow increased cone excursion at the same power levels.
That's what the whole game is about. Moving air.
When using a very large box, even at worst, the sub would use it's "air free" charestics. I would say that it would have to be a very large box for this to be the case. So large in fact that the volume of air outside the box would be equil to the volume of air inside of the box. This is of course presuming that the windows are up, and the doors are closed.
These, being the extremes of box size, are possible, but give us a useable guideline for determining optimum box size. Granted, a larger box will allow the cone more "travel" distance, and a smaller box will allow slightly higher power handling charestics, at the cost of "travel" distance.
These things however, aren't the only guidelines in determining optimum box size. For example, the ability of a subwoofer to change frequencies is determined by box size. Ok, if you've got a small box, and are trying to change the rate at wich the cone travels(frequency), it will take less time. This is because the small box controls the excursion of the cone.
Another factor for determining optimum box size is that a larger box will allow the sub to move more air. This is because a larger box, will allow increased cone excursion at the same power levels.
That's what the whole game is about. Moving air.
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