So last week I installed my system finally specs are as followed:
JL 500/1
JL 300/4
Single 2 awg line split to 2 4awg for the power to amps
3x JL 10" w3v3
eclipse sc6500 and se6856

Now Today I just did the big 3 using 4awg stinger power wire, I did this because after hard bass or just going loud on my stereo the 500/1 was cutting out and I was losing bass. But hence fixed the issue for about an hour then it started again.

What should the next step be? I was thinking of replacing the stock battery since this one does have 60k on it, but with what I'm torn and have got mixed info everywhere:

Redtop, yellow top or kinetic(or any other audio battery)(now if kinetik which one I have no idea which one would fit our car.)

So what do yall think, lay it out

 

run power wires for the amps seperately. The split could be causing the loss in power to your amp. Even if soldered, run seperate power wires for each one.

Theres no need to change the stock battery with the system that youre running. Im at 85k on my 05 FM. Im running a 15" Kicker L7 powered by a Rockford Fosgate t1000.1bd, Infinity Kappas all around powered by a Kicker zx350.4. I have no dimming issues, no clipping, no cutting out, etc.

You did good by running the big 3, but your problem is using the 2 guage and splitting it to 2 seperate amps. Run each power seperately.

 

^ What he said lol. This should solve your problem.

 

I've never had to run seperate power lines before in any car, right now I do know the 500/1 has a little longer of a strech of power line then the 300/4 what if I tried reversing that so the 500/1 had the shorter powerline distance?

 

are you people seriously telling him to run seperate power wires? Thats stupid! There is absolutely no need! 2awg to a split 4awg is perfectly fine. Your problem is the battery is old and with that much power its not charging up quick enough. You could buy a capacitor which should do the trick but if you buy one of those batteries you suggested (well all but the kinetic i dont know anythign about those really) you should be golden.

Dont run seperate power wire. Thats unnecessary and a waste of time and money.

 

Oh and maybe your amps could be getting to hot and going into limp mode. Its unlikely but can happen. Used to happen to my old system in my old car cause it was an actual trunk and with the seats up not alot of air in there execpt hot air.

 

That was my 1st thought as well, but yeah took a look at them and they are cool as a cucumber. I just got my rebate for my cell phone so I think I'll go pick up a new battery(i mean Panasonic car battery wtf?) Now looking between the red top and yellow top, the red has alot more cranking juice, but the yellow top has a slightly longer capacity meaning Red would be better if I don't run my system with my engine off correct?

 

Either of those will work. Id go with whatever is cheaper but I think most people run the yellow top.

 

Here's something new to consider. Your remote wire.
Are you using a remote wire at all or are you using the RCA signal turn on feature (JL amps turn on when they receive signal through the RCA cable)?

If you are using a remote wire, and tapping it for both amps, this may be your problem. Since most people run a quite small gauge wire, and the distance is quite far, the amperage can decrease quite a bit. Check it with a DMM. Try tapping the remote wire from the subwoofer harness in the trunk, and see if helps.

 

A capacitor is a bandaid fix! You recommending a capacitor is "stupid" enough in itself. If the battery was "old" do you honestly think any of the other components in the car would be running ok? He didnt mention anything else but the amps themselves.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=114042
^^^read this for more info on batteries and capacitors from a true audiophile

 

Well last night I went in and looked at how the shop did the power line section by section and I'm pretty sure I found the issue and I'll be walking into their shop with a bat if what they did potentially fried my amp, and I also feel stupid for not noticing it earlier.

From the battery to the fuse holder they ran ____ing 4awg, after the fuse to the back 2 awg then into the splitter to 2 awg to each amp.............Seriously WHO THE ____ would be that dumb. Anyone know if the ignorant wiring could of fried my 500/1? I'm fixing it today, just need to go get a 2awg ring terminal from a different shop, because I will never be going to this last one again even if my friend works there.

AVOID Pacific Audio in Redwood City at all COST, ____ing idiots minus my friend but he only works 2 days a week right now b/c of school........

 

You must not have read her post yourself, and in case you did I'd suggest you go back and read it again, but this time try to understand it;

So she didn't mention anything about any "band-aid fix", she did bust the myth about them helping with headlight dimming, and also indicated that they can provide benefits. This is all correct.

 

Yes, they were dumb, bad shop! If they'd just went 2awg from batt. to dist.blk., then 4awg to the amps, it'd have been fine.

No, that wiring shouldn't "fry" the amp, it has adequate internal protection circuits that prevent such during under volt and under current conditions, so it should have been cutting out / shutting down in order to protect it from damage.

 

yup switched it up and works golden