Tcguy85

ahaahahahaha

Olesen_Custom_Automotive

this thread became pointless

Tcguy85

most threads here that are about audio end like this.

SePaTc

rofl.... u guys must be from sissyville. wheres the threat????!!! :D :D :D all i said was i don't think this dude would be talking so much smack if i were standing in front of his face... and once you let people know that you know where they live, it kindof snaps them back into line. mission accomplished.

and i'll bring down $100 with me that says my 2 audiobahn 10s with only a 600w amp sound WAY better than your overhyped novelty brand crap. U pretensious losers entertain me so much. :D

Supa

MTX Thunder 9500 10 '

trialsindude

LOL if you think I am scared of you because you know where I live you have a lot to learn. You didn't accomplish anything.

Also come down for a DBdrag event and I will show you what all the novelty brands can do.

Keeshwah

Yup. I wish there were admins on this site to clean up the garbage...

GQQSE13

JL W7's POUND!!!! even their 8's are nuts, i'd go that way or kicker solo baric's but that's if you dont have the $ for JL's

SePaTc

everyone knows they shinier a sub is, the better it is.... =D

vettereddie

Good morning, have some data. If you are really interested in figuring out what the "best" 10 will be, check my other post and calculate it out yourself.

Speaker design reference manuals

I have the first book and with it you can calculate what the best sub will be for a sealed, ported, bandpass, isoberic, or other application. I find this thread amusing because the real question is, what is the best box design for my application. Once the box type is known, it is simply a matter of matching the driver whose specifications are optimal for the selected enclosure.

JL also has a nice write-up on selecting an enclosure (generic, not a plug for just the ones JL makes)

Enclosure comparisson thread

and Parent Technical Discussion Page (includes amps and install techniques)

Let's bring this thread back in to a technical discussion.

Olesen_Custom_Automotive

+1 for vettereddie

he helped me create my massive enclosure by giving me accurate data

you can make the cheapest sub sound amazing if the enclosure is designed and built correct

four 10" Rockford P1's @ $49.99 each blew an amazing 140dB in a legal readout (windows up, and in center dash)


the enclosure is just as/more important that the sub you put in it

shadow_shifter

ALPINE is the best type-R all the way!! I LOVE MY TYPRE-R!

trialsindude

actually legal placement for the sensor is 12" over from a-pillar, 4" up from dash to center of mic....

I blew 139db on a single 12... but you have more cone area than me.

nodsetse

Agreed.

Absolutely.


People would be a lot better off if they start thinking "system", rather than just "component". Everyone should have a complete system plan before taking action, and ask about all aspects of their potential subwoofer system as a whole. It doesn't make much sense to ask about only the sub(s), or an enclosure (incl. it's tuning and/or placement), or the amp(s) alone, when they all have to be considered equally in order to meet the user's requirements.

Olesen_Custom_Automotive

you sure like being an a$shole, dont you?

btw: the TermPro SPL dB drag racing meter recommends top dead center of the dashboard in the front of the vehicle, all windows up

the point is, cheap subs can create lots of sound if they have a good box

trialsindude

Yes a good box is the key to everything but i am pointing out that you have 4 10s MORE cone area than I and manage to fart 140s...your box is still wrong
Alan Dante manage to fart out 181 on a single 10. but thats a whole different story.

and yeah I'm an a$shole to stupid people like you that dont know ****.

Quoted directly from termpro itself:
http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/2007/section3.asp
Then if all the db drag shows I've been to all their mic placement has been wrong all this time then wow.