mrhat

iTrader: (4)

I installed subs yesterday. Battery is 3 1/2 years old. Amp ground 0 guage grounds in the rear i'm running 3 guage to the battery. My amp remote line runs to te battery. I have an off/on switch. I had the remote wire disconnected at the switch and the car wouldn't start it wouldn't try to turn over. I got a jump and 12 hours later in the morning it started. I drove to work and an hour later it wouldn't start. Do I need to run my remote wire to something non constant power source or does the switch take care of it. My amp is. Kenwood running at 900 watts I think

ack154

iTrader: (7)

Wait, you ran the remote wire to the battery? That does not sound right at all. I'm not car audio wiz, but all the remote wire is for is to tell the amp when to turn on and off from a signal from the head unit.

Joyride

LOL. Your battery is fried.

go buy a new battery.

Run the remote wire from your amp to the usually blue wire on the HU, if not blue it should say *REMOTE WIRE*

The only thing that goes to the battery is the Positive cable. the negative cable on the amp goes to a grinded ground on the chasis.

Hope that helps

/thread.

mrhat

iTrader: (4)

It worked overnight it didn't work after I drove it to work... Worked for two hours than when I was leaving it wouldn't start. I have a jvc touchscreen I can't find the blue wire. Do I have to buy a new battery? Is there a battery recommended for subs

Joyride

optima Red top battery is good for subs.

If there isnt a blue wire, then you have to find out which of them is the remote turn on wire. They say it on the wires or in the manual.

It worked for a period of time and didnt work is 98% fault to the battery dieing. Has some charge then it doesnt.

Plus the remote turn wire being connected to your battery to the amp drains the battery when you dont drive you car cuz your alternator isnt pumping energy back in.

Basically the mistake of connecting the remote turn on wire to the battery made you constantly drain your battery to a point where it can no longer recharge itself.

mrhat

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the help. it was my first audio install so i didnt fail that bad. should I have to splice into the remote wire? the guy I bought my headunit from spliced it up and what not to make it plug and play and bypassed. Is there a way to see if my battery is at least salvageable til the 15th or so til I get paid? Im going to see if I can get AAA on the base to jump my car.

b52hDUNN

iTrader: (1)

fully charge the battery first. If you cant find the amp turn on blue wire on the back of your headunit(it should be back there) just wire your amp turn on wire to the key on power wire. should be the red one at the back of your headunit.

mrhat

iTrader: (4)

I found the remote on the back of the headunit. When I went out to my car it was completely dead but once I took off the remote wire from the battery the car started again. im all set now been doing errands and what not around town with no problems.

mattieg

You still need to check the battery. Look at the little window on the battery and see if it needs a charge or not. Also dont mix and match power and ground wires, its not a good idea. And I hope you connected it to the blue/white wire and not just the blue wire. If you connected it to just the blue wire that means your subs will only play when your on FM. The blue wire on the back of the radio is for power antenna.

mrhat

iTrader: (4)

I connected it to the wire that says "remote amp". Ill check the battery right now.

Joyride

thats the right wire.

ATC_07

been a car audio installer for years now. If i read this wrong then correct me...but do you have a 0 gauge wire as your ground and a 3? gauge wire as your power wire going to the amp? Keep your gauge wiring the same for power and ground...for example if youre using 4 gauge power then use 4 gauge ground. Yah and you probably already fixed it but remote turn on wire is never constant power.