High output alternator?
#1
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Hi, I don't have a tC, but I know the 2008 xB and the tC share the same motor platform.
I'm just checking to see if anyone has pictures of their stock alternator and their h/o alternator. I'm just checking to see if they'll be 100% interchangable.
I asked a reputable alternator builder if he could build me up a h/o. He told me he couldn't due to it having a hairpin stator. I'm clueless what that is, so I'll leave that to him.
Any pictures or feedback would be greatly appreciated!
I'm just checking to see if anyone has pictures of their stock alternator and their h/o alternator. I'm just checking to see if they'll be 100% interchangable.
I asked a reputable alternator builder if he could build me up a h/o. He told me he couldn't due to it having a hairpin stator. I'm clueless what that is, so I'll leave that to him.
Any pictures or feedback would be greatly appreciated!
#2
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I have a h/o alternator, but mine was custom built in Cali and shipped to the sound shop here in GA... You can put one on these engines. I wasn't the simplest install, but it can be done. It's about the same size as the factory one so you can't really tell a difference. I'll go take a pic with my camera phone here at lunch and post it for you.
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Looks totally different from mine. Appears the case is larger.
![](https://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/xseveredveganx/IMG00026.jpg)
![](https://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/xseveredveganx/IMG00024.jpg)
I stopped by the dealer to see some cross references. It appears that the 2006 Camry has the same alternator. But stock they're 100amp...
![](https://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/xseveredveganx/IMG00026.jpg)
![](https://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/xseveredveganx/IMG00024.jpg)
I stopped by the dealer to see some cross references. It appears that the 2006 Camry has the same alternator. But stock they're 100amp...
#10
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Originally Posted by nebster
14 amps at idle?!?!?! thats horrible.... do you mean 140?
Just stated "for what it's worth", to those that may not be aware.
#12
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http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou180ampal3.html
180amp alternator for 490ish and if you send in the original one you get 100 back.
180amp alternator for 490ish and if you send in the original one you get 100 back.
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Originally Posted by jzd5032
http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou180ampal3.html
180amp alternator for 490ish and if you send in the original one you get 100 back.
180amp alternator for 490ish and if you send in the original one you get 100 back.
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#16
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Originally Posted by Keeshwah
Neb, when you find the alt you're gonna get let the rest of use know. Maybe do a gb or something?
#17
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Originally Posted by nebster
will do, it'll most likely be an iraggi unit. shooting for 400 bucks for 200amps at idle but that seems a bit optimistic
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...ghlight=irragi
I almost bought from Iraggi but decided to not do it.
#19
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Originally Posted by nebster
Originally Posted by nodsetse
Originally Posted by nebster
14 amps at idle?!?!?! thats horrible.... do you mean 140?
Just stated "for what it's worth", to those that may not be aware.
hahahahhahahahah thats not true at all........
you're car would die if it had 14 amps at idle
Keep in mind that you are not installing a stock alternator and it will not function the same on your car as your stock alternator does! The most common problem you may experience on initial installation is low output (either or both current and/or voltage) at idle. This problem is easily solved with system upgrades that I'll describe below. **If you are not prepared to make needed system upgrades or feel you will not need to make those upgrades for whatever reason, please do not attempt this project.**
High amp alternators are very RPM, WIRE GAUGE and BATTERY sensitive. These three things are absolutely necessary for optimum performance -
#1 - The positive battery cable to alternator MUST be upgraded to heavier gauge wire according to the amperage of the new alternator. I've mentioned the "Big Three Upgrade" numerous times, and it is, without question, necessary for HO alternators.
#2 - A fully charged heavy duty battery is a must. Alternators do not charge dead batteries and batteries must be fully charged with a battery charger before installation. If your battery is located in your trunk then you will have to consider that distance when selecting wire gauge size. If you are attempting to install a high amp alternator with a battery isolator, you must make sure that the isolator is installed and wired correctly.
Electrical Formulas For Determining Amperage Needs
Watts Divided by Volts = Amperes (amps)
Watts Divided by Amperes (amps) = Volts
Volts Divided by Amperes (amps) = Ohms
Volts Multiplied by Amperes (amps) = Watts
Pulley Ratio
For most people, the only alternator rating they are familiar with is the amperage rating. Alternators are usually of 65 amp or 100 amp variety. When replacing the alternator on the family car, this is probably the only information that is necessary. After all, all one needs is an alternator that matches the original.
When building a custom system from the ground up however, a deeper understanding of the power curve of an alternator is required. Usually a custom pulley or so-called "power pulley" set is used with a performance alternator. A mismatched pulley ratio and alternator will spell trouble, especially at idle speeds where alternator performance is critical. To avoid this, it is important to understand the alternator's capability at slow speeds.
An alternator's output is dependent on speed, but this can be deceiving because this output is not linear. Instead, it follows a curve. Each alternator has a unique curve, and at idle small changes in the alternator's speed can make a big difference in its output capacity.
Because of the preceding, pulley ratios are very important, especially when using high amperage alternators. The pulley that are supplied with the alternator are matched to the winding and power curve. It is important that any dress up pulley sets do not deviate from this ratio. Typically, a street driven car should have a pulley ratio of at least 3:1. If the vehicle has an automatic transmission with a low idle and the vehicle spends a lot of time cruising, then a higher pulley ratio - perhaps 3.5:1 - should be used. Alternators can take high speeds up to 20,000 RPMs for short periods, so overdriving the unit is not a problem.
How to Determine Ratio and Rotor Speed:
The alternator rotor RPM is not necessarily the same as engine RPM. To calculate the actual alternator RPM, determine the ratio between the two pulley diameters.
Ratio = Crankshaft Pulley Diameter/ Alternator Pulley Diameter
Now that we know the ratio, we can now determine the rotor speed:
Rotor RPM = Pulley Ratio x Engine Speed (example; 2.1 x 870 = 1827 Rotor RPM)
The bottom line is the output of high amp alternators can drop off substantially at lower RPMs!
#20
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right but you're car would die at 14 amps. you can say all that and i understand BUT you're car would die because your car demands much more than 14 amps at idle
OH AND ITS NOT AMPERAGE ITS F**KING CURRENT
oh and site your sources
http://www.motorcityreman.com/technical-info.html
OH AND ITS NOT AMPERAGE ITS F**KING CURRENT
oh and site your sources
http://www.motorcityreman.com/technical-info.html
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