xseveredveganx

Hi, I don't have a tC, but I know the 2008 xB and the tC share the same motor platform.

I'm just checking to see if anyone has pictures of their stock alternator and their h/o alternator. I'm just checking to see if they'll be 100% interchangable.

I asked a reputable alternator builder if he could build me up a h/o. He told me he couldn't due to it having a hairpin stator. I'm clueless what that is, so I'll leave that to him.

Any pictures or feedback would be greatly appreciated!

SicktC06

I have a h/o alternator, but mine was custom built in Cali and shipped to the sound shop here in GA... You can put one on these engines. I wasn't the simplest install, but it can be done. It's about the same size as the factory one so you can't really tell a difference. I'll go take a pic with my camera phone here at lunch and post it for you.

SicktC06

nebster

what did that cost? how many amps does it do at idle?

SicktC06

That ran me between $700 to $800... 14 amps at idle..

nebster

14 amps at idle?!?!?! thats horrible.... do you mean 140?

SicktC06

oops... The alternator is 170 amp alternator. at idle, I don't know the exact amperage at idle, but the did put a volt meter to it and it put out 14 volts at idle.

nebster

right it should be i was just asking the current flow at idle. volts should be constant

xseveredveganx

Looks totally different from mine. Appears the case is larger.




I stopped by the dealer to see some cross references. It appears that the 2006 Camry has the same alternator. But stock they're 100amp...

nodsetse

Many of the H/O alts produce LESS current than the stock alt at idle speeds. Around 2000 rpms or so, is where most of them start to exceed the capabilities of the stock unit. This is one reason why some SPL competitors set their idle speed to ~2k rpm, in addition to implementing >1 H/O alt.

Just stated "for what it's worth", to those that may not be aware.

nebster

^^^^^^

hahahahhahahahah thats not true at all........

you're car would die if it had 14 amps at idle

jzd5032

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou180ampal3.html
180amp alternator for 490ish and if you send in the original one you get 100 back.

xseveredveganx

Has anyone used an alternator from Maniac Electric? I've never heard of them. This is the first time I ever have.

Keeshwah

Neb, when you find the alt you're gonna get let the rest of use know. Maybe do a gb or something?

jzd5032

Its a great company. They come with a one year warranty. I'm using it in my car now, all the lights stopped dimming, and my HID kits run much better than before

nebster

will do, it'll most likely be an iraggi unit. shooting for 400 bucks for 200amps at idle but that seems a bit optimistic

YanksFan

Nebster, I'm sure you have seen this but just in case you haven't:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...ghlight=irragi

I almost bought from Iraggi but decided to not do it.

nebster

yeah i saw that too but the problem is nobody else really makes anything i'm looking for. so we'll see. not really sure what to do burt thats down the road a bit anyway

rocketgyrl

Actually, you should do some research, Ben, before you laugh at someone that's doing his best to educate you, because Don IS correct. If you really feel he's wrong, then provide some proof!

Keep in mind that you are not installing a stock alternator and it will not function the same on your car as your stock alternator does! The most common problem you may experience on initial installation is low output (either or both current and/or voltage) at idle. This problem is easily solved with system upgrades that I'll describe below. **If you are not prepared to make needed system upgrades or feel you will not need to make those upgrades for whatever reason, please do not attempt this project.**

High amp alternators are very RPM, WIRE GAUGE and BATTERY sensitive. These three things are absolutely necessary for optimum performance -

#1 - The positive battery cable to alternator MUST be upgraded to heavier gauge wire according to the amperage of the new alternator. I've mentioned the "Big Three Upgrade" numerous times, and it is, without question, necessary for HO alternators.


#2 - A fully charged heavy duty battery is a must. Alternators do not charge dead batteries and batteries must be fully charged with a battery charger before installation. If your battery is located in your trunk then you will have to consider that distance when selecting wire gauge size. If you are attempting to install a high amp alternator with a battery isolator, you must make sure that the isolator is installed and wired correctly.

Electrical Formulas For Determining Amperage Needs
Watts Divided by Volts = Amperes (amps)

Watts Divided by Amperes (amps) = Volts

Volts Divided by Amperes (amps) = Ohms

Volts Multiplied by Amperes (amps) = Watts


Pulley Ratio
For most people, the only alternator rating they are familiar with is the amperage rating. Alternators are usually of 65 amp or 100 amp variety. When replacing the alternator on the family car, this is probably the only information that is necessary. After all, all one needs is an alternator that matches the original.

When building a custom system from the ground up however, a deeper understanding of the power curve of an alternator is required. Usually a custom pulley or so-called "power pulley" set is used with a performance alternator. A mismatched pulley ratio and alternator will spell trouble, especially at idle speeds where alternator performance is critical. To avoid this, it is important to understand the alternator's capability at slow speeds.

An alternator's output is dependent on speed, but this can be deceiving because this output is not linear. Instead, it follows a curve. Each alternator has a unique curve, and at idle small changes in the alternator's speed can make a big difference in its output capacity.

Because of the preceding, pulley ratios are very important, especially when using high amperage alternators. The pulley that are supplied with the alternator are matched to the winding and power curve. It is important that any dress up pulley sets do not deviate from this ratio. Typically, a street driven car should have a pulley ratio of at least 3:1. If the vehicle has an automatic transmission with a low idle and the vehicle spends a lot of time cruising, then a higher pulley ratio - perhaps 3.5:1 - should be used. Alternators can take high speeds up to 20,000 RPMs for short periods, so overdriving the unit is not a problem.

How to Determine Ratio and Rotor Speed:
The alternator rotor RPM is not necessarily the same as engine RPM. To calculate the actual alternator RPM, determine the ratio between the two pulley diameters.

Ratio = Crankshaft Pulley Diameter/ Alternator Pulley Diameter

Now that we know the ratio, we can now determine the rotor speed:

Rotor RPM = Pulley Ratio x Engine Speed (example; 2.1 x 870 = 1827 Rotor RPM)

The bottom line is the output of high amp alternators can drop off substantially at lower RPMs!

nebster

right but you're car would die at 14 amps. you can say all that and i understand BUT you're car would die because your car demands much more than 14 amps at idle


OH AND ITS NOT AMPERAGE ITS F**KING CURRENT

oh and site your sources

http://www.motorcityreman.com/technical-info.html