how much does the w3v3 go for?

 

check ebay or your local tweeter...

 

hey just wonderin but how many subs are you guys runnin in your cars? i was thinking one would be good enough...

 

depends on the type of sub and how much bass you want. Usually the more subs the more bass but in JLs case if you get a 12" w6 or pretty much and w7 by itself you will have a lot of bass. 2 is the usual amount people throw in their trunk, but one is common too. Its all has to do with your bass needs.

you want a rattling car or just enough to add a lil umph to your music?

 

all I was saying is everyone thinks they're a cureall for your power needs and they're not at all.... they're good for slight transient spikes where the amp needs just a little extra...if you're lights are dimming out with a 3 second hard bass hit, cap's not gonna help ya cause they're quick charge/discharge... if it's just a slight twitch, you may notice an improvement with a cap but like you said, it's just be a bandaid.... my personal accounts are you'll not need a cap at all untill you get up around 1300 watts of amplifier power and once you're to that point, may as well just upgrade the battery and big 3 (alternator if those 2 don't help enough)...

 

w7's are nothing but SQ... they happen to hit hard as well but the quality of them is absolutely amazing provided you have the correct enclosure/install.... but I like the W6's just as well and they're less $$$

 

You can't go wrong with JL.

A w7 is what I consider a jekyll and hyde sub. They can be set up for sq, but most of the time people who spend that kind of money want to hit one note, and hit it hard...

It all depends on how the speaker is setup...

The JL slash amplifiers are regulated internally and I don't see the need for a cap...
I personally don't like caps, I feel the manufacturer should have designed a better amp...

There are the few occasions, which a cap might be ok, like classical music. Classical music has a large dynamic range. There are times where the sound level of the music tapers off, and then the volume is increased almost instantly.

But with music that we probably listen to, I suggest investing in a good amp and thicker power wires...

 

IMO, w7s are so over powering that it loses its tightness and sq. I feel that the w6v2 is an all around better SQ sub because it isnt as powerful and is alot tighter. Have you listened to the 10w3v3, i was totally impressed by one the other day on a 250/1.

 

naturally, if you're beating the hell out of a W7, it's going to lose some SQ... but put it up against any of the other JL subs at a level for SQ (probably around 120dB) and it's all around better sounding IMO... in a strictly SQ environment, the W7's are amazing....

 

I concur with this, but using a W7 for SPL only would be kinda silly too(again, IMO)... subs like the RE XXX and Kicker SoloX would be better suited for a 40+Hz one note wonder box...

 

alrite well i don't know how to add playinwithfire in there but to answer his question, i was lookin on gettin jl's that wouldn't be totally obnoxious like the kind you find in big escalades and such. i'm looking for something to add "umph" to my music but also something that stil could pound when i wanted to turn it up.

what do you guys suggest?

 

You can get some older but new ADS rs12s for about 160.00 a pair on ebay. SQ with SPL. Killer subs but you'll need a butt load of power.

 

well honestly JLs hit so tight that they are only "obnoxious" when you turn up the bass level and the volume... how about a couple of Wv0's or 1's or something... like 12". I really reccommend goin to tweeter just to hear what each sound like.

 

thanks man i'll take tha advice.
alrite, do you guys think that this setup would work? 1 possibly 2-10w3v2. amp and 61/2 for front and head unit. real basic but would it be descent?

 

I have a pair of JL 12W6 (the first gen) in my Mustang and I think it's only being fed about 150Watts each and they're pretty awesome. You'll enjoy the W6 V2s if you decide to get those.

With that said, when I do decide to put subs in my Scion, it needs to be JL subs (unless I can get my hands on some Adire Braumas, the mustang board seems to rave about). I thought about yanking the subs out of my Mustang and putting it in the Tc, but those subs are almost 10 years old (still sounds good though), so I'm thinking about picking up new ones.

Anyway, how does the original 12W6 subs compare to the current JL subs? I know the W6v2 would blow away my W6s, but how does it compare to the W3v2/3, and the W1v2s? I want something that hits just as hard as the o.g. W6s and if the W3v3 does it, I'll pick those up instead of the W6v2s or W7s.

 

W6's of old time Vs. W6v2's / there won't be a WHOLE LOT of difference.... I haven't had a chance to hear the W3v3's yet, but I assume a w3v3 @ RMS power VS old w6@150 watts, the w3v3 would be louder and sound better.... the old w6's were beasts and could handle a lot more than 150 watts...

 

which of all the jl subs do you think are the best bang for the buck?

 

oh yeah btw i'm only a student who only works during the summer.

 

yea dude the original 12w6's were my favorite. i had 3 of them in my old car and only running 400 watts to all 3 plus my highs... so 400 watts running 3 subs and 4 speakers which is not nearly what those subs can handle (think they are rated at 300 watts each or maybe 200 i cant remember). unfortunately that setup is in my friends civic now so i am probably going to just get a new setup... thinking about getting 2 10w6v2's or just 2 memphis audio 10s since they are cheaper. i dont know if we really need 12s in the tc.

 

You just made my day by saying the old W6s and the v2s not having a lot of difference. Maybe those subs will come out of the Mustang and go into the Tc. The Mustang just rattles to much to really turn up the volume.

And yeah, the old W6s handles 300 Watts RMS, and they're duel 6ohm speakers. I was just guessing about the 150 Watts each part, because I have a 600 Watts MAX amp and it's stable to 2 ohms. My pair of W6s can either be wired to a 1.5 ohm load or a 3 ohm load and since my amp would blow up at 1.5 ohms, I have it wired to 3 ohms. I have no idea how this works, but if the amp pushes 600 Watts max at 4 ohms,(or is it 600 at 2 ohms?) I'm guessing it at 3 ohms is about 400 watts max? So, that makes 200 Watts max for each sub, and maybe 150 Watts RMS? Or am I just messing up my logic and my subs are getting closer to the 300 Watts RMS they were rated at? And the reason why it sounds good is because it's having the power it needs?