DarkNinja

Im putting together my system and im trying to decide on the reg QSDs or the limited edition. From what I understand the biggest difference being the limited edition crossovers and the speakers are hand-picked to match (since all QSDs are hand made therefore slightly different) whereas the reg QSDs are just picked from a pile put in the box and shipped.

My thoughts... IF I were to get the limited edition the main reason would be to display the crossovers. Honestly, I think crossovers in general are ugly, the limited edition ones definately LESS ugly than the originals but still ugly. If I were to display them they would go in hatch in the fiber-glass box im building for my subs.

Now I guess the point is that when I'm at a show (by next spring my car will be show condition) or when someone who knows there ____ opens my hatch they're going to say/think... okay this b**** has some nice $2000 speakers.

and maybe that's the only upside I see, since I prolly won't be able to hear the sound difference...

Anyway, question is is it worth it?

I bought my QSDs for $700 (still unopened in box) and can trade them in for the limited edition ones for only an extra $200. So $2000 speakers for $900 ain't bad, but do I reallly want to display the ugly cross overs....

Opinions please!

MrYacs

pics plz.

DarkNinja

Limited Edition

Original Crossover

MechX2

I had those, actually still have them in a box, bought them from crutchfield, I am sending them back because I wasnt impressed. I ended up with the Polk MoMo's, very pleased with those. The Crossovers are huge! tough to find a good spot for them in the door panel. You will definatly need to cut out a spot for them. I was powering them from a PIONEER AVIC-D3, no amp... They sounded worse than factory.

MechX2

I had those, actually still have them in a box, bought them from crutchfield, I am sending them back because I wasnt impressed. I ended up with the Polk MoMo's, very pleased with those. The Crossovers are huge! tough to find a good spot for them in the door panel. You will definatly need to cut out a spot for them. I was powering them from a PIONEER AVIC-D3, no amp... They sounded worse than factory. Just FYI

DarkNinja

Your first problem is the you weren't powering them with an amp. Second, they are an aquried taste. Like a fine wine. No one likes them at first. I didn't either. But the more I listen to them over the more I like them and over ANY other front speaker. I don't know, maybe its because Im a female... we hear different.

But thats not the question Im asking. I am buying these speakers. And I know plently of places to put the 'huge' crossovers. I just don't know if I should display them....

Anyone who knows ANYTHING about custom audio work I could use your opinion.... thank you

rocketgyrl

Wow...another female into high end car audio...sweet!

I can't answer your question about if you should install the xovers so they're visible, or if spending $200 more is a good option for you...it's all personal taste.

My feeling is that since you obviously know enough about SOUND QUALITY, you should consider going "active" - essentially removing the passive networks from your system all together. Going active will allow you to further fine tune your speaker system. MBQuart (and others) had no idea what specific vehicle their speakers will be installed in, what locations the speakers will be located, etc. - so they made a "best fit" solution. There's nothing wrong with the passive networks, and they should be used as a general starting point. However, for the ultimate sound quality and tuning flexibility, I suggest leaving the passives in the box, and going with a more advanced approach. You'll use the electronic crossover in your head unit - setting the frequency somewhere near the passive network - I'm guessing ~2.5KHz. You should bandpass the 6.5" - say something like 40hz - 2.5KHz. This will also all you to "time align" all the speakers - and compensate for the different path lengths between the speakers and your head.

I can't stress enough how important path lengths are for sound quality. Please see my system here:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...asc&&start=380

Let me know if you have any questions!
Robyn

nodsetse

Only you can decide if it's worth the $200 difference to you. It definitely wouldn't be worth it to me, partly because you won't hear any difference (as you stated), but also because I don't find the regular xovers to be "ugly". Since you appear to be into high-end components and don't mind spending money on good equipment, have you considered doing away with the passive crossovers completely? A fully active 3-way system would be another way to resolve your situation.

mowmow

My friend had cut a whole on the door panel and display the crossover

DarkNinja

haha ...... yeah thats not going to happen

Anyway thanks to the rest of you for your advice. I like the idea of the going active but I don't really know much about how exactly that works... I guess I have to do some more research then I thought.

rocketgyrl

A passive network divides the frequencies going into it, and sends the proper range of sounds to the appropriate speakers. In the case of a two way - like the MBQ system, the higher frequencies to the tweeter (known as "high pass"), everything else to the 6.5" ("lowpass"). Most car audio systems use a subwoofer, creating a 3-way system. Most systems use some sort of electronic crossover (either on the CD player, amplifier, etc.) to send frequencies below ~80hz to the subwoofer, and above 80hz to the amplifier that's driving the component system. This creates a "bandpass" for the 6.5" speaker. It's now playing above 80hz from the external crossover, and below ~2.5KHz - the start of the tweeter's range.

To remove the passive network, you'll need an additional pair of amplifier channels - a 4 channel amplifier would be perfect in this case. I suggest you find a CD player that has an internal xover - something like the Premier 880 would be perfect. Set the xovers to do the same thing the passive network would do:
Sub: 80hz Low Pass
Midrange: 80Hz High Pass, 2.5KHz LowPass
Highs: 2.5KHz Hihg Pass

Additionally, you can add in the appropriate amount of time alignment for each speaker. The 880 also has a built in EQ to tailor the system's response. To help you out, it comes with a microphone, and Auto EQ feature - but it's not necessary.

Cheers,
Robyn

nodsetse

rocketgyrl's explanation was completely correct, you just need to make a choice. There are many advantages to fully active systems (potentially lesser power requirements per driver, improved sound quality, increased system tuning flexibility, etc.), and the only real "disadvantages" (matter of opinion) would be cost of the required additional amp channels and tuning a more complex system. Good luck!

DarkNinja

Okay so I already have the 4ch amp (alpine something, I know its a 4 channel though). I knew from what I had already researched that I shouldn't try and use those speakers without it. Sounds like crap...

I also have a separate amp for my bass. A bass amp Im assuming (in the same set as the alpine 4 channel, just for subs)

So really I just need to make sure my head unit has a xover built in? and then i don't use the crossovers that came with the speakers at all?

You guys are great, but just trying to put it into laymens terms I know a little, but Im still learning

rocketgyrl

You've got it! The head unit's internal xover must be able to do ~2.5KHz high pass though...not all of them are 3 way active friendly. Do you want me to suggest some head units?

I feel the Premier is an excellent value (you can get them dirt cheap on ebay):
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...159496,00.html

Kenwood:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/L...k3=172&pr=2739

Eclipse:
http://www.eclipse-web.com/cd/cd7100overviews.html

Clarion (this is what's in my car - a true audiophile piece!):
http://clarion.com/us/en/products/20...294764151.html

As far as I know, Sony and Alpine don't currently offer any CD players with built in xovers, and time alignment...

Cheers,
Robyn

know_fun

eclipse hu ftw
(but mainly look for hivolt preouts so greater than 3v normal hu do 2v)

and good job on the mb quart i dont have the qsd i got a lil cheap and ran the reference series but sound sooo good. waiting to upgrade to the qsd
stick with the regular y spend 200 extra crossovers when you could go active with cheaper?. (ebay has qsd for ~$330 i'm not trying to be the _______ but if u need the cash its an extra 300)

now just add some dynaudio mw160 or some idmax subs and find the best mounts for all your speakers and ur sq comp ready

nodsetse

There are other alternatives for a fully active system, such as using a separate component 3-way active crossover, or using crossovers built into the amps themselves. You likely already have the latter, but whether they provide the required frequencies for a 3-way setup is unknown, since I don't know the specific amps you're using. Other component processors can be implemented for time alignment and other types of processing (such as EQ), so that it's possible to acheive everything you want, even if using the stock HU with an LOC. That's how it used to be done, where you had to find space for all the separate processors, and each has the potential to introduce noise into the system.

While it can still be done as described above, it's now better to proceed as rocketgyrl suggested, by doing it all through the head unit. This makes tuning the system much easier, saves space, time & installation effort, lowers the potential for system noise, and it's usually less expensive too.

DarkNinja

and what if I want a screen?

DarkNinja

lol thanks... but ebay scares me with certain stuff, especially audio. Im not worried about the cash, id rather know what Im getting and make sure i get a full waranty on it.... plus i looked on ebay and most of those QSD were listed at 4.5".... ?

there is a new oval 12 that im looking at putting in. I wanted to put in 2 10s reverse mounted but this thing looks sick... plus i can still reverse mount it and get the cone color matched I love BSP. But a set up with 2 tens custom fiberglassed in there reverse mounted with my amps in the floor would look the best... haven't shopped a lot for subs though. that will be the end of the summer... cars getting dropped first

DarkNinja

perfect... thanks for the info. did you have any reco's on HUs?

...............did i mention i want a screen?? :D

rocketgyrl

Alpine IVA-W200 + PXA-H701