PICS! My Mid Panel Speakers, and some templates for you.
04-27-2006, 03:25 PM
#61
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SL Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: City of Champs, MA
Posts: 2,838
nothing is really plug n play unless you get the speaker harness from crutchfield.com or another site. And it you dont want to spend too much money, the best upgrade is to get a front component set (tweeters and speakers) instead of spending the money for 2 sets of coaxials. Dont even bother with the rears as they are just fill. The fronts are whats important.
04-27-2006, 03:47 PM
#62
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Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burke, VA
Posts: 1,326
Originally Posted by Fsu1dolfan
Very new to the audio world but the templates and walk through is calling me....i am curious if i keep the stock HU and stock tweeters and just upgrade the speakers front and back...is it worth it??? And what would be good replacements that are just plug and play persay....thanks
07-16-2006, 09:07 PM
#68
Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 39
Originally Posted by jaydub
this was the install from my Civic
I think I'll try to use MDF again but I'll seal it and treat it, because when i took everything out after two years it cracked and fell apart due to the heat here in Vegas.
I think I'll try to use MDF again but I'll seal it and treat it, because when i took everything out after two years it cracked and fell apart due to the heat here in Vegas.
07-28-2006, 08:23 PM
#73
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 27
errr two questions.
3.3 inches for mounting depth? Is that measuring from sheet metal to the back of the door? Why isnt anyone considering with the window down, as that's obviously pretty important....
I get a little under 2.5" with the window down.
Also, how did you possibly screw the baffle in with bolts and nuts behind them if you cant reach the nuts to stop them from spinning??
3.3 inches for mounting depth? Is that measuring from sheet metal to the back of the door? Why isnt anyone considering with the window down, as that's obviously pretty important....
I get a little under 2.5" with the window down.
Also, how did you possibly screw the baffle in with bolts and nuts behind them if you cant reach the nuts to stop them from spinning??
08-31-2006, 09:16 AM
#75
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SL Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 58
The eurosports are not all they are cracked up to be. I went from them to DLS Iridiums and then to Boston Z6. The Iridiums sounded the best with the Z6 close behind and the Eurosport significantly behind them. In my install for the tC I am thinking about going custom using a DLS Prototype midbass 8" if I can fit it without too much work, a Scan speak 4" revelator and LPG tweeters.
10-03-2006, 12:21 AM
#76
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Somewhere in Rural Mass
Posts: 6
tC Speaker Installation
Excellent advice. Decent install. The rear speakers in the tC just don't do it justice.
But, I was wondering if you could give a clue as to how to remove the panel for the rears. In most Toyotas, you remove the seats, and then pull gently on the panel to unclip it.
This is my first new car (for ME!) in TWENTY YEARS (my last one was a...Hachiroku...)
So, since I have an '85 Corolla, an '85 Celica and an '88 Supra, thing may have changed in 18 years!
If someone could give a hint, it would be appreciated
But, I was wondering if you could give a clue as to how to remove the panel for the rears. In most Toyotas, you remove the seats, and then pull gently on the panel to unclip it.
This is my first new car (for ME!) in TWENTY YEARS (my last one was a...Hachiroku...)
So, since I have an '85 Corolla, an '85 Celica and an '88 Supra, thing may have changed in 18 years!
If someone could give a hint, it would be appreciated
10-03-2006, 12:52 AM
#77
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Central FL
Posts: 144
Check out this post, it shows how to rip just about everything out of your tC...
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45238
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45238
10-15-2006, 02:10 AM
#78
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Somewhere in Rural Mass
Posts: 6
tC Speaker installation
Yeah, I found that! Good info. I did the rears last week, but I mounted them with Honda baskets I had hanging around. It made the sound a lot better.
I put 5" MB Quarts in the rear. I just made the baffles for the front today. They are not readily available commercially; Crutchfield has an 'adapter', but they didn't look very good, and you can get some Mazda adapters from Metra, but they don't look real good, either.
I made mine from some old melamine shelving I had hanging around, 3/4" thick, and used the template from here. Tomorrow's project!
Thanks for the link, though!
I put 5" MB Quarts in the rear. I just made the baffles for the front today. They are not readily available commercially; Crutchfield has an 'adapter', but they didn't look very good, and you can get some Mazda adapters from Metra, but they don't look real good, either.
I made mine from some old melamine shelving I had hanging around, 3/4" thick, and used the template from here. Tomorrow's project!
Thanks for the link, though!
10-16-2006, 03:29 AM
#79
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 24
tC Speaker installation
I dug up my 'spare' pair of MB Quart 6.5 inchers, and set to the task of
drilling the rivets out of the stock speakers. It actually went a lot
better than I had expected.
I made the mounts from some old shelving using the template from
ScionLife; make them just a shade meatier if you do this. In a couple
spots, when you cut the 6-6.25 inch hole for the speakers, it's a little
'thin' in a spot or two, but the design is pretty good!
Also, cut a notch for the wire! Otherwise, you'll have to pinch it
somewhere. I cut about a 1/16" notch and pressed the wiring into it, and then mounted the speaker.
I made a cheesy 'harness' to connect the Quarts to the stock wiring,
mounted the first Quart and went to screw it in.
That's when I noticed the speaker surround was separating from the frame! I knew the older Quarts were notorious for needing to be repaired, but didn't know why. Now I know.
So, I got out my 'Velcro' glue and glued the rubber back to the frame and 'clamped' it with a dozen clothespins. A quick inspection of the second speaker revealed even worse separation!
(As a note, Velcro glue is EXCELLENT! It is made to adhere Velcro strips to more porous materials like Pressboard, etc, but it has a million uses! I used it to repair some broken plastic pieces in my Supra, and even used it to glue the metal clips onto the trim around the doorlocks on the same car. They are notorious for having the clips loosen and fall off, but it's been 2 years and still holding)
While waiting for the glue to dry, I drilled out the second speaker and
mounted the adapter and made up the wiring. By this time it was a little
more than an hour, so I checked and the glue was sufficiently dry to mount the speakers.
So, now I have 5" Quarts in the rear, and 6.5" Quarts in the front, and
what a difference! It sounds pretty good. I have to turn it up a bit more
than with the 'cheap' speakers that came with the car, but the quality is
certainly rewarding!
And, another note: the Quarts I used had a tweeter in them; I left the
factory tweeter in palce and just added the 6'5s complete, since the stock 6.5 is a 4 ohm speaker and the Quarts are 4 ohms overall. Actually, a tweeter appears on the system more as a capacitance, so I don't believe there will be any problems with balancing as far as the stock head unit's amp is concerned. It sounds good!
And, one more little tip: high frequencies are VERY directional, where as lows are not. GENTLY bend the tweeter bracket on the driver's door to face more towards you. It makes a BIG difference! You can also relocate the one on the passenger's door, but because of it's position, it doesn't have to be moved a lot. The highs will be a LOT clearer!
If I decide to upgrade the head unit and add an amp, that's going to have to wait for Spring. It sounds decent enough as is, though!
drilling the rivets out of the stock speakers. It actually went a lot
better than I had expected.
I made the mounts from some old shelving using the template from
ScionLife; make them just a shade meatier if you do this. In a couple
spots, when you cut the 6-6.25 inch hole for the speakers, it's a little
'thin' in a spot or two, but the design is pretty good!
Also, cut a notch for the wire! Otherwise, you'll have to pinch it
somewhere. I cut about a 1/16" notch and pressed the wiring into it, and then mounted the speaker.
I made a cheesy 'harness' to connect the Quarts to the stock wiring,
mounted the first Quart and went to screw it in.
That's when I noticed the speaker surround was separating from the frame! I knew the older Quarts were notorious for needing to be repaired, but didn't know why. Now I know.
So, I got out my 'Velcro' glue and glued the rubber back to the frame and 'clamped' it with a dozen clothespins. A quick inspection of the second speaker revealed even worse separation!
(As a note, Velcro glue is EXCELLENT! It is made to adhere Velcro strips to more porous materials like Pressboard, etc, but it has a million uses! I used it to repair some broken plastic pieces in my Supra, and even used it to glue the metal clips onto the trim around the doorlocks on the same car. They are notorious for having the clips loosen and fall off, but it's been 2 years and still holding)
While waiting for the glue to dry, I drilled out the second speaker and
mounted the adapter and made up the wiring. By this time it was a little
more than an hour, so I checked and the glue was sufficiently dry to mount the speakers.
So, now I have 5" Quarts in the rear, and 6.5" Quarts in the front, and
what a difference! It sounds pretty good. I have to turn it up a bit more
than with the 'cheap' speakers that came with the car, but the quality is
certainly rewarding!
And, another note: the Quarts I used had a tweeter in them; I left the
factory tweeter in palce and just added the 6'5s complete, since the stock 6.5 is a 4 ohm speaker and the Quarts are 4 ohms overall. Actually, a tweeter appears on the system more as a capacitance, so I don't believe there will be any problems with balancing as far as the stock head unit's amp is concerned. It sounds good!
And, one more little tip: high frequencies are VERY directional, where as lows are not. GENTLY bend the tweeter bracket on the driver's door to face more towards you. It makes a BIG difference! You can also relocate the one on the passenger's door, but because of it's position, it doesn't have to be moved a lot. The highs will be a LOT clearer!
If I decide to upgrade the head unit and add an amp, that's going to have to wait for Spring. It sounds decent enough as is, though!
10-17-2006, 05:01 PM
#80
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 24
tC Speaker Installation
One More thing....the plastic does not extend behind the speakers as on other Toys I have (had) with speakers in the doors. The backs of the speakers are open to the elements that make their way through the window slot, vents, drains, etc.
So, you may want to get some heavy plastic, similar to what is on the door, and some 'goop', and put the plastic behind your nice, prolly expensive replacement speakers.
You can get nice, heavy plastic at any hardware or home supply store. I would think, if you want a nice, shaped piece, you could place it over a 'butter bucket' (one of those tubs margarine comes in) and hit it with a hair dryer to form it a little bit, and then goop it to the door and trap it behind the mounting bracket.
This will keep your nice speakers from getting wet! Esp if they are paper cone, and you may actually be able to remove the connectors when you want to remove them!
Some dielectric grease will aid in trhis, also!
So, you may want to get some heavy plastic, similar to what is on the door, and some 'goop', and put the plastic behind your nice, prolly expensive replacement speakers.
You can get nice, heavy plastic at any hardware or home supply store. I would think, if you want a nice, shaped piece, you could place it over a 'butter bucket' (one of those tubs margarine comes in) and hit it with a hair dryer to form it a little bit, and then goop it to the door and trap it behind the mounting bracket.
This will keep your nice speakers from getting wet! Esp if they are paper cone, and you may actually be able to remove the connectors when you want to remove them!
Some dielectric grease will aid in trhis, also!