Project: High off Resin (UPDATE PG7: 12-10-07)56k DIE
12-04-2007, 07:12 PM
#81
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Originally Posted by rvpps2rocks
what do you mean matting the inside seam. around the edge of the box or on the inside of the box. the amp rack, i was saw how ppl flush mount there amp kinda where its behind a board. and i liked the way that looked so im gunna cut a sheet of mdf and cut a shape out in the center and then fiberglass that to the amp rack you see i built. i have an idea of how i can make it so the facia comes off the amp rack so i can get to the amp
oh and this is kinda what it looks like with 15's
12-04-2007, 07:17 PM
#82
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yea my buddy said to mix a small bath of maybe 12oz or so and to pour it in the enclousure and slosh it around and move the enclosure around so it gets into all the corners. You think its save to cut the rings out yet and make so its flush with the inner part of the ring
12-04-2007, 07:44 PM
#85
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not to beat a dead horse, but both nebster and enrique had some mis info in this thread. however, Enrique was more right....
i'm not even going to waste my time going back and highlighing everything that nebster said which was incorrect, i'll only say that this is not the first incident when he's been tossing bad info, while acting like he's some kind of audio guru. imo he's a shop rat that does a lot of internet research....
impedance MEANS current resistence in a circuit. If you didn't know that (and don't try to mix words around and make it seem like u did, and that you were just trying to be uber specific/technical) then STFU.
also, lower impedence does not = more distortion. and you could have just as much distortion at a high impedance as a low. distortion has almost nothing to do with impedance, and is certainly not directly correlated.
also, if you have 2 dual 2-ohm subs: wire each sub's coils in parallel, and you have 2 1-ohm loads; wire each sub's coils in series and you have 2 4-ohm loads.
if you have an amp that is rated 400 x 2 @1 ohm, then you parallel-wire the sub's voice coils, and each sub gets one of the two channels and 400 w each since they are running at 1 ohm.
if your amp is not stable at 1 ohm, then you would want to series wire the coils and have a bridgable amp stable at 2 ohm. then you have your 2 4-ohm loads, bridge them to the amp, and you end up with a final load " x1 @ 2 ohm"
it has more to do with amp design than impedance in terms of distortion. A class D amp is designed to run at low impedance. most class a/b amps are not stable at 1 ohm, and thus u need to wire your subs accordingly.
i have 2- 10" 6ohm DVC subs. each sub's voice coils are wired in parellel so that each sub is wired to 3ohm. I am bridging them to the amp (aka. positive terminal from one channel powers all positive leads on both subs, negative terminal from other channel powers all negative leads on both subs) which gives me a final impedance of 1.5ohm. my amp puts out 800w @ 1 ohm, so i figure i'm running about 700w x1 @1.5ohm.
nebster-- you don't know as much as you think you do. and theres certaily no need to act like a know-it-all d-bag about it....
i'm not even going to waste my time going back and highlighing everything that nebster said which was incorrect, i'll only say that this is not the first incident when he's been tossing bad info, while acting like he's some kind of audio guru. imo he's a shop rat that does a lot of internet research....
impedance MEANS current resistence in a circuit. If you didn't know that (and don't try to mix words around and make it seem like u did, and that you were just trying to be uber specific/technical) then STFU.
also, lower impedence does not = more distortion. and you could have just as much distortion at a high impedance as a low. distortion has almost nothing to do with impedance, and is certainly not directly correlated.
also, if you have 2 dual 2-ohm subs: wire each sub's coils in parallel, and you have 2 1-ohm loads; wire each sub's coils in series and you have 2 4-ohm loads.
if you have an amp that is rated 400 x 2 @1 ohm, then you parallel-wire the sub's voice coils, and each sub gets one of the two channels and 400 w each since they are running at 1 ohm.
if your amp is not stable at 1 ohm, then you would want to series wire the coils and have a bridgable amp stable at 2 ohm. then you have your 2 4-ohm loads, bridge them to the amp, and you end up with a final load " x1 @ 2 ohm"
it has more to do with amp design than impedance in terms of distortion. A class D amp is designed to run at low impedance. most class a/b amps are not stable at 1 ohm, and thus u need to wire your subs accordingly.
i have 2- 10" 6ohm DVC subs. each sub's voice coils are wired in parellel so that each sub is wired to 3ohm. I am bridging them to the amp (aka. positive terminal from one channel powers all positive leads on both subs, negative terminal from other channel powers all negative leads on both subs) which gives me a final impedance of 1.5ohm. my amp puts out 800w @ 1 ohm, so i figure i'm running about 700w x1 @1.5ohm.
nebster-- you don't know as much as you think you do. and theres certaily no need to act like a know-it-all d-bag about it....
12-04-2007, 08:39 PM
#86
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dude this was over..... stop jacking the ____ing thread. i'm not even going to TALK about that post
i'd put a layer of mat on the outside as well but no i'm talking like when you cut open the fleece on the ring and throw it on the inside of the enclosure. have you also thought about how you're going run you're speaker wire?
i dont mean removing the rings but cutting back the fleece to the rings
edit and add matt to the fleece on the underside?
edit and add matt to the fleece on the underside?
12-04-2007, 09:05 PM
#87
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So what is the fleece you're using for the front parts? Where can I buy it? All I have is woven and chopped fiberglass mat. Also, can kitty or tiger hair be used to build up the interior walls? This will be my first box app. for fiberglass, and is all DIY as all the shops in my area are complete idiots, won't go into details, search Kromatic Kustoms, Bad Boyz Kustoms, etc for horror stories. Also, how thick does the glass need to be to be physically solid for a 300W RMS woofer (JL 8w7)?
For the impedance threadjsck, just wiki it and leave the debate to PM.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_impedance
The cliff notes are impedance is frequency dependent and is the vector summation of resistance and reactance, expressed as inductance or capacitance depending on sign. Impedance at DC IS resistance. For subwoofer applications below 100 Hz, don't expect to see a big change between the two. Full range speakers will see a potentially large fluctuation in impedance depending on input signal frequency.
Have fun with the diff eq. Electromagnetic theory sucks for those of you going for a EE, I ended up specializing in micro, building chips is much more fun.
Edit: get a JL slash series amp and you'll never have to worry about power calculations. They actually use a regulated supply and are constant power from 4-1.5 Ohms, impedance independent. Now who wants to calculate the resonant frequency of an irregular shaped fiberglass box?
For the impedance threadjsck, just wiki it and leave the debate to PM.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_impedance
The cliff notes are impedance is frequency dependent and is the vector summation of resistance and reactance, expressed as inductance or capacitance depending on sign. Impedance at DC IS resistance. For subwoofer applications below 100 Hz, don't expect to see a big change between the two. Full range speakers will see a potentially large fluctuation in impedance depending on input signal frequency.
Have fun with the diff eq. Electromagnetic theory sucks for those of you going for a EE, I ended up specializing in micro, building chips is much more fun.
Edit: get a JL slash series amp and you'll never have to worry about power calculations. They actually use a regulated supply and are constant power from 4-1.5 Ohms, impedance independent. Now who wants to calculate the resonant frequency of an irregular shaped fiberglass box?
12-05-2007, 01:57 AM
#88
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SePaTc
if you looked at the amp i have also its the eD NINe.1 like i stated before and the specs are 1200w @ 1 ohm and 900w@2ohm
vettereddie
Fleece you can get at any fabric store its all cotton. but i hear spandex works to and soaks up less resin but i like the fleece ill snap a pic of some excess i cut off.
nebster im going to resin the inside seams and then put 1 layer of mat on the inside and 2 or 3 layers on the outside
if you looked at the amp i have also its the eD NINe.1 like i stated before and the specs are 1200w @ 1 ohm and 900w@2ohm
vettereddie
Fleece you can get at any fabric store its all cotton. but i hear spandex works to and soaks up less resin but i like the fleece ill snap a pic of some excess i cut off.
nebster im going to resin the inside seams and then put 1 layer of mat on the inside and 2 or 3 layers on the outside
12-05-2007, 04:26 PM
#89
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Originally Posted by rvpps2rocks
SePaTc
if you looked at the amp i have also its the eD NINe.1 like i stated before and the specs are 1200w @ 1 ohm and 900w@2ohm
vettereddie
Fleece you can get at any fabric store its all cotton. but i hear spandex works to and soaks up less resin but i like the fleece ill snap a pic of some excess i cut off.
nebster im going to resin the inside seams and then put 1 layer of mat on the inside and 2 or 3 layers on the outside
if you looked at the amp i have also its the eD NINe.1 like i stated before and the specs are 1200w @ 1 ohm and 900w@2ohm
vettereddie
Fleece you can get at any fabric store its all cotton. but i hear spandex works to and soaks up less resin but i like the fleece ill snap a pic of some excess i cut off.
nebster im going to resin the inside seams and then put 1 layer of mat on the inside and 2 or 3 layers on the outside
yes, audiobahn has the same diagrams, which are great for people who actually know how to wire in series and parallel, but if you don't know how to physically do it, then these diagrams don't mean squat. Bottom line, there are 2 factors that affect final impedance, speaker/voice coil wiring, and bridging. If you have a 4 ohm circuit wired up, and you bridge it to the amp, it will result in a final load of 2ohm. if you run it stereo, it will be two 4 ohm loads.
12-05-2007, 04:46 PM
#90
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For those unfamiliar with the difference between parallel and series wiring, please educate yourself before your install or consult saomeone who knows. It's pretty hard to permanently damage your setup, but it's easy to make it sound horrible using the wrong configuration. I'll try and make it easy.
Parallel:
Wire the negative terminal of every coil to the negative terminal on the amp. Wire every positive terminal of every coil to the positive terminal on the amp. You can wire the two coil terminals together instrad of running a seperate wire all the way back to the amp for each terminal.
Series:
Wire the amp (+) terminal to the first speaker coil (+). Wire the first speaker coil (-) to the second speaker coil (+). Repeat until the last coil. Wire the last coil (-) to the amp (-).
use a mono amp for your subs and you won't have to worry about bridging.
Now, back to glassing. I'm using a polyester resin, do I need to switch to urathane? And does anyone use kitty or tiger hair to fill / add strength to the inside of the box? Finally, do you use straight body filler for the top fill? I was talking to an audio shop and they said they use a 50/50 body filler / resin mix. They only use the resin hardener and not the cream one. I've tried this technique and it comes out easier to smooth and sand, but is a bit more flexible than stand alone resin so it is not good for adding strength.
Parallel:
Wire the negative terminal of every coil to the negative terminal on the amp. Wire every positive terminal of every coil to the positive terminal on the amp. You can wire the two coil terminals together instrad of running a seperate wire all the way back to the amp for each terminal.
Series:
Wire the amp (+) terminal to the first speaker coil (+). Wire the first speaker coil (-) to the second speaker coil (+). Repeat until the last coil. Wire the last coil (-) to the amp (-).
use a mono amp for your subs and you won't have to worry about bridging.
Now, back to glassing. I'm using a polyester resin, do I need to switch to urathane? And does anyone use kitty or tiger hair to fill / add strength to the inside of the box? Finally, do you use straight body filler for the top fill? I was talking to an audio shop and they said they use a 50/50 body filler / resin mix. They only use the resin hardener and not the cream one. I've tried this technique and it comes out easier to smooth and sand, but is a bit more flexible than stand alone resin so it is not good for adding strength.
12-05-2007, 05:14 PM
#92
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Originally Posted by rvpps2rocks
okay well FYI the amp im using is a mono black and there is no bridging but thanks for future reference for someone
12-07-2007, 01:13 AM
#93
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Christmas came early ...look what just came in the mail. i might take tomorrow off work and get some work done on the enclosures. Lot of stuff that happened this week with school. im sure most of you know how that goes. But i am still alive so no worries( not like you all were) but its cool it will get done
12-07-2007, 05:27 AM
#95
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im dropped on hotchkis im adding prob about 30 lbs per woofer the amp alone ways maybe 15 lbs i wanna say. plust the enclosures are about the same around 15-20 im on 17" and no rubbing but i havent had the woofers in yet but ive had 6 ppl in my car and no rubbing on hotchkis drop
12-07-2007, 01:50 PM
#97
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do you think i will rub? cause just my sub weighs 102lbs, the box will be atleast 80lbs plus the amp which is close to 25lbs. and im looking into 19" rims. i dont really think i will need a drop...
i heard that there is a drop that can be as little as 1/4" i think i might go with that one
i heard that there is a drop that can be as little as 1/4" i think i might go with that one
12-07-2007, 02:45 PM
#98
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Originally Posted by caps
do you think i will rub? cause just my sub weighs 102lbs, the box will be atleast 80lbs plus the amp which is close to 25lbs. and im looking into 19" rims. i dont really think i will need a drop...
i heard that there is a drop that can be as little as 1/4" i think i might go with that one
i heard that there is a drop that can be as little as 1/4" i think i might go with that one
12-07-2007, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nebster
19's rock. i have about 275 lbs in the back and running 19x9.5 out back and i dont' rub
because lord knows they slow you down (a lot) and decrease ride quality and handling.....
and why on earth 19x19.5 out back on a FWD car??? because thats what they do in Modified mag or Import Tuner???? :D