View Poll Results: which components should I go with?
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which set of components
#22
Originally Posted by ecko04
400w may be a little too much if the amp is 400w RMS; look at the RMS value more so than the peak power. The sub will hardly ever, unless tuning precise sine waves, make or need the peak power. However, it will continuously run at the RMS value so if you get an amp running 400w RMS you will severely overpower the sub but one around 200-300w RMS, 600w peak (give or take a little) would be ideal.
Under powering a sub is much more harmful than overpowering it....both could potentially seize the sub coil.
I personally refer Kicker amps, ZX series, so I would go Kicker ZX 300.1
That particular amp gives you 300w RMS and 600w peak.
BTW, Kicker underrates their amps so peak would be more close to ~620-635w
If you are wanting something that can run both the components and sub with a single amp I would get the Kicker ZX 350.4 run the components off the front and sub off the rear.
However, if you go with that setup then for aforementioned Infinity/eD or Polk db series (preferably) components would be ideal since there would not be enough power running off the front channels for the Polk Momo components.
Under powering a sub is much more harmful than overpowering it....both could potentially seize the sub coil.
I personally refer Kicker amps, ZX series, so I would go Kicker ZX 300.1
That particular amp gives you 300w RMS and 600w peak.
BTW, Kicker underrates their amps so peak would be more close to ~620-635w
If you are wanting something that can run both the components and sub with a single amp I would get the Kicker ZX 350.4 run the components off the front and sub off the rear.
However, if you go with that setup then for aforementioned Infinity/eD or Polk db series (preferably) components would be ideal since there would not be enough power running off the front channels for the Polk Momo components.
#23
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Originally Posted by YanksFan
First off, underpowering a sub will not harm the sub at all and I would like to hear why you think it does cause damage....and secondly, I don't see the 300.1 doing close to 600rms.....stop talking about peak power as well dude, it means nothing. To the OP, personally, I'd pick out a better set of comps.
First off, the reason an under powered amp CAN damage a speaker is because clipping allows it amp to produce more power than it would in it's unclipped state, and clipping can be completely avoided as long as you set your gains correctly.
An amp "clips" when it is asked to play at a volume beyond its voltage capability. At that point the peaks and valleys of the wave are "clipped" causing excess current to flow through the voice coil producing more heat than it can withstand.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 50w amp (even if it's 100% clipped -- which would be nearly unbearable to listen to) can NOT damage the speaker.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 75w amp COULD cause thermal damage at or near 100% clipping because at that point the amp could produce nearly 150w.
I work in car audio......
Next, I never stated that a 300.1 would produce 600w RMS. You need to read more carefully next time. Having installed a great deal of these I know what the spec sheet says almost by heart.
Originally Posted by ecko04
I personally prefer Kicker amps, ZX series, so I would go Kicker ZX 300.1
That particular amp gives you 300w RMS and 600w peak.
Originally Posted by ecko04
look at the RMS value more so than the peak power.
You were obviously selectively reading.
#24
Originally Posted by ecko04
Originally Posted by YanksFan
First off, underpowering a sub will not harm the sub at all and I would like to hear why you think it does cause damage....and secondly, I don't see the 300.1 doing close to 600rms.....stop talking about peak power as well dude, it means nothing. To the OP, personally, I'd pick out a better set of comps.
First off, the reason an under powered amp CAN damage a speaker is because clipping allows it amp to produce more power than it would in it's unclipped state, and clipping can be completely avoided as long as you set your gains correctly.
An amp "clips" when it is asked to play at a volume beyond its voltage capability. At that point the peaks and valleys of the wave are "clipped" causing excess current to flow through the voice coil producing more heat than it can withstand.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 50w amp (even if it's 100% clipped -- which would be nearly unbearable to listen to) can NOT damage the speaker.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 75w amp COULD cause thermal damage at or near 100% clipping because at that point the amp could produce nearly 150w.
I work in car audio......
Next, I never stated that a 300.1 would produce 600w RMS. You need to read more carefully next time. Having installed a great deal of these I know what the spec sheet says almost by heart.
Originally Posted by ecko04
I personally prefer Kicker amps, ZX series, so I would go Kicker ZX 300.1
That particular amp gives you 300w RMS and 600w peak.
Originally Posted by ecko04
look at the RMS value more so than the peak power.
You were obviously selectively reading.
As far as this thread, I looked back at what sub you were looking at/general price range and goals and I can see you don't want a loud sub so I guess whatever you had was fine... If you want to spend some money for some nice comps, look at rainbow. I have type s speakers and if I were keeping this car long enough to get another set of speakers I would probably get audioque or some type x's off ebay.
#25
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lol just to clear the air I dont think I was ever talking about peak power, I dont know why anyone got that impression. I know as much as the next guy that peak power is just marketing.
I ended up ordering some eD comps. Relatively inexpensive and +1 for the "all in the family" factor. I'll post pics when they're in :-)
I ended up ordering some eD comps. Relatively inexpensive and +1 for the "all in the family" factor. I'll post pics when they're in :-)
#26
Originally Posted by ecko04
You obviously don't do much car audio work
First off, the reason an under powered amp CAN damage a speaker is because clipping allows it amp to produce more power than it would in it's unclipped state, and clipping can be completely avoided as long as you set your gains correctly.
An amp "clips" when it is asked to play at a volume beyond its voltage capability. At that point the peaks and valleys of the wave are "clipped" causing excess current to flow through the voice coil producing more heat than it can withstand.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 50w amp (even if it's 100% clipped -- which would be nearly unbearable to listen to) can NOT damage the speaker.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 75w amp COULD cause thermal damage at or near 100% clipping because at that point the amp could produce nearly 150w.
I work in car audio......
Next, I never stated that a 300.1 would produce 600w RMS. You need to read more carefully next time. Having installed a great deal of these I know what the spec sheet says almost by heart.
I personally prefer Kicker amps, ZX series, so I would go Kicker ZX 300.1
That particular amp gives you 300w RMS and 600w peak.
RMS and peak are two totally different things and had you noticed this:
You would already have noticed when I told the OP what value to look at more closely.
You were obviously selectively reading.
First off, the reason an under powered amp CAN damage a speaker is because clipping allows it amp to produce more power than it would in it's unclipped state, and clipping can be completely avoided as long as you set your gains correctly.
An amp "clips" when it is asked to play at a volume beyond its voltage capability. At that point the peaks and valleys of the wave are "clipped" causing excess current to flow through the voice coil producing more heat than it can withstand.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 50w amp (even if it's 100% clipped -- which would be nearly unbearable to listen to) can NOT damage the speaker.
Driving a 100w speaker with a 75w amp COULD cause thermal damage at or near 100% clipping because at that point the amp could produce nearly 150w.
I work in car audio......
Next, I never stated that a 300.1 would produce 600w RMS. You need to read more carefully next time. Having installed a great deal of these I know what the spec sheet says almost by heart.
Originally Posted by ecko04
I personally prefer Kicker amps, ZX series, so I would go Kicker ZX 300.1
That particular amp gives you 300w RMS and 600w peak.
Originally Posted by ecko04
look at the RMS value more so than the peak power.
You were obviously selectively reading.
#27
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Originally Posted by YanksFan
I don't do any car audio work but I know a thing or two you could say. I was reading what you wrote bud. I'm not going to get into a argument over this because well, it'd be useless for both of us. No offense, but if you are messing up subs by merely under powering them, then you need to take a step back my man. Clipping can damage a sub, merely under powering it, will not and I will stand by that whole heartedly. And I'm confused as to why you would even bother saying that the amp will do "620-635w " peak when later you say don't worry about peak, which just common knowledge. Now I remember why I never come on this forum anymore.
The mere fact of RMS and peak need to be mentioned since both ratings will on the spec sheet and people need to know the difference. Simply because I made reference to both but gave credence to one more so than the other is evident to which is more valuable. What is common knowledge to some is not common knowledge to all which is why it is worth mentioning.
Clipping occurs since most people do not know how to set their gains appropriate and technically a DMM should be used to do it to prevent clipping although it rarely is.
BTW, decent decision OP, post those pics of the install.
#28
True that underpowering will only damage a sub if clipped. The problem is the vast vast majority of people underpowering subwoofers try and keep squeezing a little bit more...Thats when their pretty little sine waves turn to plateaus and their speaker implodes. It is much easier to kill a sub with too little power than too much.
#29
Originally Posted by x_Batman_x
lol just to clear the air I dont think I was ever talking about peak power, I dont know why anyone got that impression. I know as much as the next guy that peak power is just marketing.
I ended up ordering some eD comps. Relatively inexpensive and +1 for the "all in the family" factor. I'll post pics when they're in :-)
I ended up ordering some eD comps. Relatively inexpensive and +1 for the "all in the family" factor. I'll post pics when they're in :-)
#30
I still have to figure out what I am going to do with my 4 eD ehqs12's I got last year. My little brother is in high school so I have been trying to get him to let me build a wall in his minivan, he isn't too convinced its a good idea. A home theater sub would be cool too but I am pretty sure it would overwhelm my Onkyo HT-SR800 system easily even with just 2. You will love the eD components! I have a set in my XJ and they are great for the money.
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