FlintC

in that case still lol.

i get ur point now

nebster

hahaha

well its steal early

Uyles

Well, at least theres a reason for you hating the term SQL.
I would've been ____ed if you randomly came and started spewing BS, but you didn't.

So, while you're here, what's your input on the RE SE 15", the RSD components, the Alpine MRP-1000 and the Alpine MRP-F300?

I PROMISE I WON'T SAY SQL.

FlintC

check out the dayton ho 15 while ur at it. too bad u cant afford the pdx line of amps, they are baller. im trying to get a pdx 5. only downfall is 300w for the sub channel, but im not trying to be loud, so im good to go.

ps- u should look into going active and find a headunit that accomodates such... tcguy went from his rsd to the ID oem mids and seas neo alums and said the difference is amazing.

nebster

you should both look at dls amps.

http://www.mobilesq.com/shop/index.php?cPath=26_46_47

i run the a2, a3 and a6 for my active setup

Uyles

I mean, I could save up for the PDX's, but there really is no point, seeing as the M1000 puts out the exact wattage the RE SE needs to function at full power. I don't want to overpower it by 400, that would end up badly, I assume.
I could just go with two RE's, and upgrade to a PDX, but that's around another 500 or so dollars, which I, being a 17 year old, do not have.

I still have a lot more stuff to do to my car, and I can always upgrade the system after I get done putting on some other exterior modifications and such.
I'm pretty sure my setup should be good for me.

And Neb, those are slightly too expensive for me.
Ugh, how I wish I had money to spend.

kidwolf908

The setup that he has decided on is as perfect as it can get for his price range. An active head unit would run him $300, the extra amplifier channels would cost him more, the extra wiring would cost him more. Overall, for a beginner, passive is DEFINITELY the way to go. In addition, I too would recommend the HO15. I know that when I move up to a 15, that will be the way I go. However, the RE SE15 will undoubtedly deliver more bass per watt, and the OP did say that he would like to be able to get loud.

I think all of this discussion over SQL not being a "real" term is BS. How about SQL = Sound Quality at ALL Listening Levels? (Including loud). I like that acronym, SQALL? How's that? That is what SQL means for me and many others.

The idea that a sound quality system can ONLY reproduce excellent quality music at low volumes is total bull.

Anyway, Uyles, if you'd like to save a little coin (but also be a little less LOUD), the Dayton HO15 is a great subwoofer and will still get plenty loud. It can be found here: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-469

Free shipping right now and an S4 voice voil so the MRP-M1000 will power it beautifully. Regarding PDX amps, yes they are pretty awesome in terms of output for the size, however, the price is pretty high. I love my PDX's, but I spent over $700 for amps alone whereas you'll have as much power from the MRP series for only $450-500. Go with the MRP's, you'll love them every bit as much.

Uyles

Hmm, be a little less loud?
Well, I do listen to techno (trance, etc.), and a lot of hip-hop. 95% of the songs I listen to are pretty bass heavy, so I think the RE SE is perfect, because it's loud, but I'll still be able to hear the intricate parts of the songs.

kidwolf908

Yea, the SE models out to be about 5dB's louder at 40Hz. But it will definitely still be almost as responsive and intricate as the HO. It's probably the best match for you honestly. It's also DVC so it offers more wiring options if you decide to go to a dual sub setup or something else in the future.

trialsindude

I run an SQL system too....with my almighty Zapco DC Ref 1000.4
YEAH /lil jon

kidwolf908

It must just be us Marylanders that believe in SQL then huh? lol

Uyles

I'm almost positive I'll be switching to a dual sub setup after I finish doing some exterior work on the car.

YOU GUYS ARE THE SQL BELIEVERS!
ALL HAIL SQL!

FlintC

haha i personally have no beef with anyone saying sql. sq is sq and spl is spl... and if u want a system that sounds good but can get loud... then so be it sql. theres a huge difference b/t sq and spl system... spl systems mainly sound like ____... sq sound amazing but no boomboom bass. sql have a balance of both if u wanna look at it that way.

also, with the right research and patience, you could easily run active searching forums and the right places find some gently used equipment. but if ur not overly **** bout how ur stuff sounds like me... then passive is the way to go like kidwolf said. definately for a beginner. if u need any help, lemme know.

Uyles

Question for kidwolf:

You gave me an eBay link to the RE SE 15" (http://cgi.ebay.com/RE-AUDIO-SE15-15...1%7C240%3A1318), but on the actual site (http://reaudio.com/woofers.html#goto_se), the SE looks waaaaaay different, but the SR Series looks the same as the eBay links.
Did they just update the SE version on the site, or are the eBay links right?

The eBay links seem to be right...

kidwolf908

The SE on eBay is actually the newest cone design, RE is the one who didn't update their images. But rest assured, the SE on ebay is the correct one. The D4 will allow you to wire it at either 4 ohms or 2 ohms, so you can send the sub 600 or 1000wRMS. Preferably, wire the sub in parallel and run it at 2 ohms, just keep the gain on the M1000 low.

Uyles

Okay, awesome.
So, I should wire it for 1,000, or 600 w?

Can the sub take 1,000?

kidwolf908

I would wire it for 1000wRMS. The SE can definitely handle upwards of 750-800wRMS without any issue, and if you keep that gain low on the amplifier, the sub will never see that much anyway. Whereas if you wire it in a 4 ohm configuration, you'll only be utilizing a single voice coil on the sub (not sure if this is bad, but it's not intended I know that), and you'll be a bit limited to only 600wRMS @ 4 ohms, which might hold you back if you decide you wanna get REALLY loud one day lol

Uyles

Alright.
Awesome.

Thanks!

FlintC

ACTUALLY a D4 (dual voice coil 4 ohm) will allow you to wire it at either 8 ohms or 2 ohms. 8 ohms if you run the voice coils in series and 2 ohms if you wire them in parallel. you can run 2 d4s in series-parallel and get a 4 ohm final impedance or you can run 2 d4s in parallel-parallel and get a 1 ohm final impedance. you could always got a with a d2 is your looking to get 4 ohms, or depending on the power handling on that sub and the stability of the amp, run a d2 @ 1 ohm.

ps- you never want to only utilize a single voice coil on a DVC sub. (i.e. trying to get 4 ohms from a d4 by using just one voice coil)

ippskidder

Watching.