Soundsystem Question (oh joy, another!)
#81
Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
The SE on eBay is actually the newest cone design, RE is the one who didn't update their images. But rest assured, the SE on ebay is the correct one. The D4 will allow you to wire it at either 4 ohms or 2 ohms, so you can send the sub 600 or 1000wRMS. Preferably, wire the sub in parallel and run it at 2 ohms, just keep the gain on the M1000 low.
ACTUALLY a D4 (dual voice coil 4 ohm) will allow you to wire it at either 8 ohms or 2 ohms. 8 ohms if you run the voice coils in series and 2 ohms if you wire them in parallel. you can run 2 d4s in series-parallel and get a 4 ohm final impedance or you can run 2 d4s in parallel-parallel and get a 1 ohm final impedance. you could always got a with a d2 is your looking to get 4 ohms, or depending on the power handling on that sub and the stability of the amp, run a d2 @ 1 ohm.
ps- you never want to only utilize a single voice coil on a DVC sub. (i.e. trying to get 4 ohms from a d4 by using just one voice coil)
Anyway, good eye. So for now he'd be best off running a D4 to get the most out of his amp, but what about in the long run when he says he might move to a dual sub setup? I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
#82
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
Nah, but I'm sure in the future when I change something around, it'll just be the same setup, but more expensive equipment (IE. more expensive sub/amp/components).
No reason to have anything more than one nice big 15" sub.
#83
Originally Posted by Uyles
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
Nah, but I'm sure in the future when I change something around, it'll just be the same setup, but more expensive equipment (IE. more expensive sub/amp/components).
No reason to have anything more than one nice big 15" sub.
#85
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
The SE on eBay is actually the newest cone design, RE is the one who didn't update their images. But rest assured, the SE on ebay is the correct one. The D4 will allow you to wire it at either 4 ohms or 2 ohms, so you can send the sub 600 or 1000wRMS. Preferably, wire the sub in parallel and run it at 2 ohms, just keep the gain on the M1000 low.
ACTUALLY a D4 (dual voice coil 4 ohm) will allow you to wire it at either 8 ohms or 2 ohms. 8 ohms if you run the voice coils in series and 2 ohms if you wire them in parallel. you can run 2 d4s in series-parallel and get a 4 ohm final impedance or you can run 2 d4s in parallel-parallel and get a 1 ohm final impedance. you could always got a with a d2 is your looking to get 4 ohms, or depending on the power handling on that sub and the stability of the amp, run a d2 @ 1 ohm.
ps- you never want to only utilize a single voice coil on a DVC sub. (i.e. trying to get 4 ohms from a d4 by using just one voice coil)
Anyway, good eye. So for now he'd be best off running a D4 to get the most out of his amp, but what about in the long run when he says he might move to a dual sub setup? I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
#86
Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
ported enclosures are a little tricky bc u have to subtract port area as well, i use a calculator online for port areas and tuning, etc. the lower the tuning... the more port area required, thus a longer port. regardless, you always want roughly a .707 Qtc for sealed or ported, its suppossed to give the flattest response... mines a little off, but after a lot of researching on diyma... the alignment mine is in right now models best. i think its roughly .5 Qtc. .707 was like a .4 cube box net and guys who ran the same subs said it really killed the low end. im .7 cube net right now.
#87
Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
If you just need the measurements, I can put that all together for you in some image files and throw them up here. Just gotta make sure you go to a fabricator that knows how to use a table saw, miter saw, and T-square lol... I still need to make sure the tC trunk will allow a 38" wide box between the wheel wells, but I'm pretty sure that's what I measured last time I went to build a box.
#88
Well, considering I don't know how to use either of the three pieces of equipment you listed, I suppose I'd find somebody out here who can do it.
Throwing up some image files would be perfect so I can go to the person who'll make the
enclosure, as they'll know exactly what I want (looks-wise, measurement-wise, etc.)
And Flint, the info on how to find measurements helped a lot. Thanks!
Throwing up some image files would be perfect so I can go to the person who'll make the
enclosure, as they'll know exactly what I want (looks-wise, measurement-wise, etc.)
And Flint, the info on how to find measurements helped a lot. Thanks!
#89
Well, considering I don't know how to use either of the three pieces of equipment you listed, I suppose I'd find somebody out here who can do it.
Throwing up some image files would be perfect so I can go to the person who'll make the
enclosure, as they'll know exactly what I want (looks-wise, measurement-wise, etc.)
And Flint, the info on how to find measurements helped a lot. Thanks!
Throwing up some image files would be perfect so I can go to the person who'll make the
enclosure, as they'll know exactly what I want (looks-wise, measurement-wise, etc.)
And Flint, the info on how to find measurements helped a lot. Thanks!
#90
Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
ported enclosures are a little tricky bc u have to subtract port area as well, i use a calculator online for port areas and tuning, etc. the lower the tuning... the more port area required, thus a longer port. regardless, you always want roughly a .707 Qtc for sealed or ported, its suppossed to give the flattest response... mines a little off, but after a lot of researching on diyma... the alignment mine is in right now models best. i think its roughly .5 Qtc. .707 was like a .4 cube box net and guys who ran the same subs said it really killed the low end. im .7 cube net right now.
And given 500 watts each, your dual HO10's are theoretically capable of 117dB's at 50Hz. Just a little tidbit lol
The RE SE 15 given 1000wRMS in the specified enclosure is theoretically capable of 121dB's at 40Hz.
#91
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.
It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
ported enclosures are a little tricky bc u have to subtract port area as well, i use a calculator online for port areas and tuning, etc. the lower the tuning... the more port area required, thus a longer port. regardless, you always want roughly a .707 Qtc for sealed or ported, its suppossed to give the flattest response... mines a little off, but after a lot of researching on diyma... the alignment mine is in right now models best. i think its roughly .5 Qtc. .707 was like a .4 cube box net and guys who ran the same subs said it really killed the low end. im .7 cube net right now.
And given 500 watts each, your dual HO10's are theoretically capable of 117dB's at 50Hz. Just a little tidbit lol
The RE SE 15 given 1000wRMS in the specified enclosure is theoretically capable of 121dB's at 40Hz.
i wonder if ur specs vs mine would sound much different to the ear. .
#92
Well, this took about 20 minutes, so excuse the hideousness.
Here it is. (based off kidwolf's idea);
Still don't have the measurements yet, but it's a start.
I put the F300 on the back because I doubt it would fit up from with the sub and the M1000.
Here it is. (based off kidwolf's idea);
Still don't have the measurements yet, but it's a start.
I put the F300 on the back because I doubt it would fit up from with the sub and the M1000.
#93
The idea is not bad, however, you're unable to make the box a perfect triangular prism without it being too tall and going above the seat back. Not to mention, that design wouldn't give you the proper volume. However, I do believe that if you build the box that I'm working on for you, the M1000 and F300 will be able to fit side by side if you place them vertically.
I'd have to make sure of that in autoCAD, but I'll definitely get back to you ASAP. My apologies for being a little delayed with everything, finals are coming up for me and thus we have all the final projects and last exams before finals so I've been quite busy.
I'll do my best to get a finalized measurement diagram up for you tonight.
I'd have to make sure of that in autoCAD, but I'll definitely get back to you ASAP. My apologies for being a little delayed with everything, finals are coming up for me and thus we have all the final projects and last exams before finals so I've been quite busy.
I'll do my best to get a finalized measurement diagram up for you tonight.
#94
Hey man, take your time. I know finals suck.
It's gonna be a while anyway.
If you're willing to get everything up tonight, go for it, but if not, just take your time, I seriously don't mind.
It's gonna be a while anyway.
If you're willing to get everything up tonight, go for it, but if not, just take your time, I seriously don't mind.
#95
yea man, triangle design like that will never allow for enough depth to mount the speaker etc... especially with the port like that. what size port will you be running??? atleast a 4" on a 15? you definately dont want any huffing
#98
Yes you will, you can either make your own out of 3/4" MDF, or just buy these (which I used and they work perfectly): http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Speaker-Adapte...3286.m20.l1116
That's probably the best way to go so you don't have to fabricate anything yourself.
That's probably the best way to go so you don't have to fabricate anything yourself.