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Soundsystem Question (oh joy, another!)

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Old 12-02-2008, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
The SE on eBay is actually the newest cone design, RE is the one who didn't update their images. But rest assured, the SE on ebay is the correct one. The D4 will allow you to wire it at either 4 ohms or 2 ohms, so you can send the sub 600 or 1000wRMS. Preferably, wire the sub in parallel and run it at 2 ohms, just keep the gain on the M1000 low.

ACTUALLY a D4 (dual voice coil 4 ohm) will allow you to wire it at either 8 ohms or 2 ohms. 8 ohms if you run the voice coils in series and 2 ohms if you wire them in parallel. you can run 2 d4s in series-parallel and get a 4 ohm final impedance or you can run 2 d4s in parallel-parallel and get a 1 ohm final impedance. you could always got a with a d2 is your looking to get 4 ohms, or depending on the power handling on that sub and the stability of the amp, run a d2 @ 1 ohm.

ps- you never want to only utilize a single voice coil on a DVC sub. (i.e. trying to get 4 ohms from a d4 by using just one voice coil)
You know I actually wasn't sure on this, but thanks for clarifying. I was seeing on some other places around the web people just using a single VC to get the 4 ohm load, but had suspicions that it would be a hazard (only half the power handling perhaps?)

Anyway, good eye. So for now he'd be best off running a D4 to get the most out of his amp, but what about in the long run when he says he might move to a dual sub setup? I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kidwolf908
I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
Well, sometimes, you just want shit to go BOOM.

Nah, but I'm sure in the future when I change something around, it'll just be the same setup, but more expensive equipment (IE. more expensive sub/amp/components).

No reason to have anything more than one nice big 15" sub.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Uyles
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
Well, sometimes, you just want shit to go BOOM.

Nah, but I'm sure in the future when I change something around, it'll just be the same setup, but more expensive equipment (IE. more expensive sub/amp/components).

No reason to have anything more than one nice big 15" sub.
Yea I really have a feeling a single 15 with 1000wRMS will be WAY more than enough in the tC. Being a hatch, it really gets LOUD, even with a single 10.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:22 AM
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Awesome.

I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.

It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by kidwolf908
Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by kidwolf908
The SE on eBay is actually the newest cone design, RE is the one who didn't update their images. But rest assured, the SE on ebay is the correct one. The D4 will allow you to wire it at either 4 ohms or 2 ohms, so you can send the sub 600 or 1000wRMS. Preferably, wire the sub in parallel and run it at 2 ohms, just keep the gain on the M1000 low.

ACTUALLY a D4 (dual voice coil 4 ohm) will allow you to wire it at either 8 ohms or 2 ohms. 8 ohms if you run the voice coils in series and 2 ohms if you wire them in parallel. you can run 2 d4s in series-parallel and get a 4 ohm final impedance or you can run 2 d4s in parallel-parallel and get a 1 ohm final impedance. you could always got a with a d2 is your looking to get 4 ohms, or depending on the power handling on that sub and the stability of the amp, run a d2 @ 1 ohm.

ps- you never want to only utilize a single voice coil on a DVC sub. (i.e. trying to get 4 ohms from a d4 by using just one voice coil)
You know I actually wasn't sure on this, but thanks for clarifying. I was seeing on some other places around the web people just using a single VC to get the 4 ohm load, but had suspicions that it would be a hazard (only half the power handling perhaps?)

Anyway, good eye. So for now he'd be best off running a D4 to get the most out of his amp, but what about in the long run when he says he might move to a dual sub setup? I don't really see two 15's in a tC EVER being necessary lol, but you never know.
yea, i wouldnt try the single voil on a dvc sub... when i was young and dumb i did it and blew an alpine type S all to ____, like the voice coil caught on mini fire and went out by itself, but when i pulled the sub out the part of the box where the sub was mounted was scortched... yea, my first system ever b4 i knew anything lol. theres also people who run 2 different types of subs on the same mono channel amp with, ive seen a guy running a s4 and a d4 in the same box on the same mono channel sony xplod amp. yea ur right, he is better off running a d4, in the long run... if his amp isnt stable at one ohm.. he wil have to upgrade amps, you can get a decent clean powered 1 ohm stable amp these days for a decent price... if he has the need to have 2 15s... he will just have to sacrifice the money... theres no need whatsoever imho for 2 15s in a tC... i know from experience. i had 2 eD 16kv2s in a sealed enclosure in my tC on only 250 watts each on a jl 500/1 and it was stupid loud. my dayton ho 10s ported are close to it... they get retarded loud for being tuned at 29.5 hz but its a different loud with 15s.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.

I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.

It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
sealed is very simple. just find the volume of the enclosure by multiplying LxWxH of the internal dimensions in inches and divide by 1728... thatll give u the gross ft^3... then subract the drive displacement to find the net volume.

ported enclosures are a little tricky bc u have to subtract port area as well, i use a calculator online for port areas and tuning, etc. the lower the tuning... the more port area required, thus a longer port. regardless, you always want roughly a .707 Qtc for sealed or ported, its suppossed to give the flattest response... mines a little off, but after a lot of researching on diyma... the alignment mine is in right now models best. i think its roughly .5 Qtc. .707 was like a .4 cube box net and guys who ran the same subs said it really killed the low end. im .7 cube net right now.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.

I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.

It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
Are you going to attempt to construct the box yourself or just submit the design to some fellows that can build it for you out there?

If you just need the measurements, I can put that all together for you in some image files and throw them up here. Just gotta make sure you go to a fabricator that knows how to use a table saw, miter saw, and T-square lol... I still need to make sure the tC trunk will allow a 38" wide box between the wheel wells, but I'm pretty sure that's what I measured last time I went to build a box.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:27 AM
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Well, considering I don't know how to use either of the three pieces of equipment you listed, I suppose I'd find somebody out here who can do it.

Throwing up some image files would be perfect so I can go to the person who'll make the
enclosure, as they'll know exactly what I want (looks-wise, measurement-wise, etc.)

And Flint, the info on how to find measurements helped a lot. Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:35 AM
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Well, considering I don't know how to use either of the three pieces of equipment you listed, I suppose I'd find somebody out here who can do it.

Throwing up some image files would be perfect so I can go to the person who'll make the
enclosure, as they'll know exactly what I want (looks-wise, measurement-wise, etc.)

And Flint, the info on how to find measurements helped a lot. Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.

I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.

It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
sealed is very simple. just find the volume of the enclosure by multiplying LxWxH of the internal dimensions in inches and divide by 1728... thatll give u the gross ft^3... then subract the drive displacement to find the net volume.

ported enclosures are a little tricky bc u have to subtract port area as well, i use a calculator online for port areas and tuning, etc. the lower the tuning... the more port area required, thus a longer port. regardless, you always want roughly a .707 Qtc for sealed or ported, its suppossed to give the flattest response... mines a little off, but after a lot of researching on diyma... the alignment mine is in right now models best. i think its roughly .5 Qtc. .707 was like a .4 cube box net and guys who ran the same subs said it really killed the low end. im .7 cube net right now.
You're almost dead on with running the HO10 in a .7 net enclosure. For the HO10, a .615 ft^3 enclosure with driver displacement models out to be the best you can get. For ported, the HO10 tuned to 32Hz in a .7 net box gives the flattest response possible.

And given 500 watts each, your dual HO10's are theoretically capable of 117dB's at 50Hz. Just a little tidbit lol

The RE SE 15 given 1000wRMS in the specified enclosure is theoretically capable of 121dB's at 40Hz.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by kidwolf908
Originally Posted by FlintC
Originally Posted by Uyles
Awesome.

I tried doing some box designs on some paper, but I suck with that kind of stuff.

It looks nice, but I don't know anything about the measurments.
sealed is very simple. just find the volume of the enclosure by multiplying LxWxH of the internal dimensions in inches and divide by 1728... thatll give u the gross ft^3... then subract the drive displacement to find the net volume.

ported enclosures are a little tricky bc u have to subtract port area as well, i use a calculator online for port areas and tuning, etc. the lower the tuning... the more port area required, thus a longer port. regardless, you always want roughly a .707 Qtc for sealed or ported, its suppossed to give the flattest response... mines a little off, but after a lot of researching on diyma... the alignment mine is in right now models best. i think its roughly .5 Qtc. .707 was like a .4 cube box net and guys who ran the same subs said it really killed the low end. im .7 cube net right now.
You're almost dead on with running the HO10 in a .7 net enclosure. For the HO10, a .615 ft^3 enclosure with driver displacement models out to be the best you can get. For ported, the HO10 tuned to 32Hz in a .7 net box gives the flattest response possible.

And given 500 watts each, your dual HO10's are theoretically capable of 117dB's at 50Hz. Just a little tidbit lol

The RE SE 15 given 1000wRMS in the specified enclosure is theoretically capable of 121dB's at 40Hz.
well i talked to chad and quite a few guys over at diyma, and .7 was the consensus over there at 28-30 hz... im not saying ur design isnt flat either, but i did a few lil things in windisd and at like .675 ish and 32hz had a slight bump at 35... so hell i dunno... all i know is them subs sound awesome regardless. tcguy has the exact same specs as me on his enclosure. .7 at 30hz i believe... mines like 29.5 though. theoretically 117dB yes... but with cabin gain, i guarantee its a bit louder than that.... or can be, i keep em cut down. im sure if i tuned em up they could get a lot louder, but SQ ftw.

i wonder if ur specs vs mine would sound much different to the ear. .
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:48 AM
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Well, this took about 20 minutes, so excuse the hideousness.
Here it is. (based off kidwolf's idea);



Still don't have the measurements yet, but it's a start.
I put the F300 on the back because I doubt it would fit up from with the sub and the M1000.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:40 AM
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The idea is not bad, however, you're unable to make the box a perfect triangular prism without it being too tall and going above the seat back. Not to mention, that design wouldn't give you the proper volume. However, I do believe that if you build the box that I'm working on for you, the M1000 and F300 will be able to fit side by side if you place them vertically.

I'd have to make sure of that in autoCAD, but I'll definitely get back to you ASAP. My apologies for being a little delayed with everything, finals are coming up for me and thus we have all the final projects and last exams before finals so I've been quite busy.

I'll do my best to get a finalized measurement diagram up for you tonight.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:45 AM
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Hey man, take your time. I know finals suck.
It's gonna be a while anyway.

If you're willing to get everything up tonight, go for it, but if not, just take your time, I seriously don't mind.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:45 AM
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yea man, triangle design like that will never allow for enough depth to mount the speaker etc... especially with the port like that. what size port will you be running??? atleast a 4" on a 15? you definately dont want any huffing
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:45 PM
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It's a 4".
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:04 PM
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I'm going to need baffles for the Phoenix's, correct?
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:20 AM
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Yes you will, you can either make your own out of 3/4" MDF, or just buy these (which I used and they work perfectly): http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Speaker-Adapte...3286.m20.l1116

That's probably the best way to go so you don't have to fabricate anything yourself.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:22 AM
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I have an '09 tC.
...Does it matter?
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:26 AM
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No, the speaker adapters will still be the same. Exact same stereo in terms of speaker sizes/mounts... no worries
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