Viper 5900 (Question)
#1
Viper 5900 (Question)
Hey guys,
I'm going to be installing my Viper 5900 with the 530t window automation next weekend. I currently have Scion Security installed in the tC. I was wondering if I will be needing the Xpresskit XK05 bypass for the automatic start to function? If so, any good places where I can find one for a reasonable price?
Thanks for help
I'm going to be installing my Viper 5900 with the 530t window automation next weekend. I currently have Scion Security installed in the tC. I was wondering if I will be needing the Xpresskit XK05 bypass for the automatic start to function? If so, any good places where I can find one for a reasonable price?
Thanks for help
#2
XK05 is old now and deleted at my place. If you can get a PK-ALL module. Roughly 80 bucks, but im sure you can find one cheaper online. And yes it is needed due to the fact that there is a computer chip inside the key that the computer must read in order to start the car.
#5
one more quick thing... this is from directtechs (people who make the remote starts) Installation of 530T seems to cause problems with the factory window programming. Use 529T instead.
So you will need two 529T one for each window. And trust me they are a pain.
So you will need two 529T one for each window. And trust me they are a pain.
#8
Well there is usually a 15 amp fuse on a white wire. That is the wire that is used for the lights. If you know where he put the brain then I would check for that red 15 amp fuse on the white wire.
#11
i have 529t's and i love them. still have one more for the sunroof when i find the time to do it. just make sure to have a spare key hidden somewhere. i take it in for service and they always leave the keys inside not thinking that the windows will roll up on them.
one problem i do have with it is that it keeps tripping the one touch up function. it closes all the way and then comes down a few inches, i always have to hold the button to close it all the way.
any ideas?
one problem i do have with it is that it keeps tripping the one touch up function. it closes all the way and then comes down a few inches, i always have to hold the button to close it all the way.
any ideas?
#12
Please don't get a XK05....it is the biggest POS.
With the 556U..,you'll loose a key but it is by far the easiest to use and setup.
The PKALL is great as well, a little more time consuming but no keys will be lost with it.
With the 556U..,you'll loose a key but it is by far the easiest to use and setup.
The PKALL is great as well, a little more time consuming but no keys will be lost with it.
#13
I would rather run the XK05 than any other. I use them all the time and NEVER had one issue with them. By far one of the best pieces out there. Even with the 556UW it is picky on where the wire sits on the key cylinder.
#14
I found the XK05's to be the biggest pain to program especially on GM's friggin transponder and diesel vehicles. Not to mention if it didn't work then it doesn't work, might as well hang it up or be on the phone with DEI for the next 2 hours.
The 556U while yeah are picky when it comes to the key cylinder, on vehicles whose key cylinder is built into the dash, etc. can be a pain once you get that sucker you know you got it and its going to work.
The PKALL...the programming can be time consuming but hey that's the technology these days for ya.
I'm going to upgrade my Python 990 to the 991 one day. My 991 just got dropped off today. I have an unused 990 sitting around here with a couple of extra new remotes too.
When doing 3 to 4 remote starts on any given day I need something that works, works fast, works right and works the first time.
The 556U while yeah are picky when it comes to the key cylinder, on vehicles whose key cylinder is built into the dash, etc. can be a pain once you get that sucker you know you got it and its going to work.
The PKALL...the programming can be time consuming but hey that's the technology these days for ya.
I'm going to upgrade my Python 990 to the 991 one day. My 991 just got dropped off today. I have an unused 990 sitting around here with a couple of extra new remotes too.
When doing 3 to 4 remote starts on any given day I need something that works, works fast, works right and works the first time.
#15
Amen to that. I have been around remote starters long enough to have used them all. I agree its a pain to learn how to use them, and hook them up to the lap top and program them. But I found them to be really easy.
But no more XK05 at my shop, now its only PKALL. I sent back all the CANBUS400. Those things were junk and needed two other parts just for them to work.
But I am pretty happy with the PKALL now.
But no more XK05 at my shop, now its only PKALL. I sent back all the CANBUS400. Those things were junk and needed two other parts just for them to work.
But I am pretty happy with the PKALL now.
#17
LOL sadly we don't have much of a choice in the matter. Whenever DEI decides to make a change we tend to have to just go with the flow.
I did figure out how to bypass the transponder 2 system without using a bypass at all.
I did figure out how to bypass the transponder 2 system without using a bypass at all.
#20
Pretty simple actually. When you're out of bypasses or you just want to have another $100 go to labor.
From the key cylinder there is a yellow/black or yellow wire (passlock data) as well as a orange/black or black (ground)
What you do is cut the yellow or yellow/black and simply strip the black wire back some. Take a meter, set it to measure resistance, with the key turned to ignition and with the car in reverse and meter the yellow (key side) and black wire, yellow is your positive and black is the ground. You will get some resistance value on the meter.
Find a resistor, usually in the resistor pack that comes with remote starts, that matches the value of the resistance that showed on your meter.
Simply solder that resistor, I usually use a little bit more wire and heatshrink to make the process easier. What you do is solder one end to the key side and the other to the car side.
And that's it, passlock 2 has been bypassed.
Essentially, the key has a certain resistance when placed into the cylinder. When that resistance does not match then the car starts and immediately cuts off. When you have that resistor in place the car always measure the correct resistance so not only does the customer not have to lose a key, if you want to be nice they also don't have to buy a bypass or you can net the bypass cost for labor.
We do it all the time and we never have to worry about a bypass failing or any of that.
From the key cylinder there is a yellow/black or yellow wire (passlock data) as well as a orange/black or black (ground)
What you do is cut the yellow or yellow/black and simply strip the black wire back some. Take a meter, set it to measure resistance, with the key turned to ignition and with the car in reverse and meter the yellow (key side) and black wire, yellow is your positive and black is the ground. You will get some resistance value on the meter.
Find a resistor, usually in the resistor pack that comes with remote starts, that matches the value of the resistance that showed on your meter.
Simply solder that resistor, I usually use a little bit more wire and heatshrink to make the process easier. What you do is solder one end to the key side and the other to the car side.
And that's it, passlock 2 has been bypassed.
Essentially, the key has a certain resistance when placed into the cylinder. When that resistance does not match then the car starts and immediately cuts off. When you have that resistor in place the car always measure the correct resistance so not only does the customer not have to lose a key, if you want to be nice they also don't have to buy a bypass or you can net the bypass cost for labor.
We do it all the time and we never have to worry about a bypass failing or any of that.