W3 vs W6
#21
I have two OLD 10w3's rated at 250RMS each, that I had been feeding ~400WRMS each for over four years with no problems. I then retired them by modeling and building a ported enclosure for them for home theater use. They have been receiving about 6-700watts for the pair for another 2 or three years since then. JL's can certainly hold power. The key is (and this is for all subs) to keep them amplifiers out of clipping. Also, I wouldn't call JL's particularly efficient but they are not bad in that department.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
#22
Originally Posted by bbsciontc
I have two OLD 10w3's rated at 250RMS each, that I had been feeding ~400WRMS each for over four years with no problems. I then retired them by modeling and building a ported enclosure for them for home theater use. They have been receiving about 6-700watts for the pair for another 2 or three years since then. JL's can certainly hold power. The key is (and this is for all subs) to keep them amplifiers out of clipping. Also, I wouldn't call JL's particularly efficient but they are not bad in that department.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
If we are talking competition subs I would go a totally different route JL is more of a SQ Brand.
#23
Originally Posted by SKHILLS
Originally Posted by bbsciontc
I have two OLD 10w3's rated at 250RMS each, that I had been feeding ~400WRMS each for over four years with no problems. I then retired them by modeling and building a ported enclosure for them for home theater use. They have been receiving about 6-700watts for the pair for another 2 or three years since then. JL's can certainly hold power. The key is (and this is for all subs) to keep them amplifiers out of clipping. Also, I wouldn't call JL's particularly efficient but they are not bad in that department.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
If we are talking competition subs I would go a totally different route JL is more of a SQ Brand.
JL subs are NOT known as being particularly effiecient, in fact they're about average in that regard. However, they ARE known to handle far more watts than they're rated for, as evidenced by many test reviews of their products in various periodicals over the years. They're fine subs, but don't really require any more or less power than many of the other brands of subs on the market.
I tend to believe what bbsciontc stated, but you, SKHILLS, seem to have some strange ideas about differences between JL and other brands, and possibly how sub systems function in general. Your last statement is particularly weird, as though you've never heard of SQ competition.
#24
As I said, I am currently sending 6 -700 Watts to the pair (roughly 300 to 350 each) and they love it. And the amps I have used are all quality models which consistantly bench above their rated power (MTX 1000d, PG titanium). It is not necessary by any means to use a JL audio amp, but even if I did, I'm sure 500watts (250 a peice) would not pose any risk to my old w3's. IIRC, JL's use a tightly regulated power supply and basically deliver their rated power into various impedance loads.
Like I said before, setting the gains and crossovers properly is KEY to keep the amplifiers from clipping output.
Like I said before, setting the gains and crossovers properly is KEY to keep the amplifiers from clipping output.
#25
Originally Posted by nodsetse
Originally Posted by SKHILLS
Originally Posted by bbsciontc
I have two OLD 10w3's rated at 250RMS each, that I had been feeding ~400WRMS each for over four years with no problems. I then retired them by modeling and building a ported enclosure for them for home theater use. They have been receiving about 6-700watts for the pair for another 2 or three years since then. JL's can certainly hold power. The key is (and this is for all subs) to keep them amplifiers out of clipping. Also, I wouldn't call JL's particularly efficient but they are not bad in that department.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
And btw, those Treo's are NICE. They have really proven themselves in competition. For them to shine you really need to have the right enclosure.
If we are talking competition subs I would go a totally different route JL is more of a SQ Brand.
JL subs are NOT known as being particularly effiecient, in fact they're about average in that regard. However, they ARE known to handle far more watts than they're rated for, as evidenced by many test reviews of their products in various periodicals over the years. They're fine subs, but don't really require any more or less power than many of the other brands of subs on the market.
I tend to believe what bbsciontc stated, but you, SKHILLS, seem to have some strange ideas about differences between JL and other brands, and possibly how sub systems function in general. Your last statement is particularly weird, as though you've never heard of SQ competition.
I'll rephrase my post in this manner--> good speakers + good amp = no over powering needed. SQ= SOUND QUALITY (the reason we buy nice speakeres) SPL= competition i never said their was a SQ comp. <--- get it? I'm not about to get into a ____ing match that is mainly based on opinions so you can believe what you want... But believe when i say i know to a T what i am talking about.
#27
Originally Posted by Neothin
but there *is* sq competitions
#28
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JL amps use the RIPS technology basically making the watts stay the same no matter what ohms you are running or what voltage you are giving it.
Back to how JL sounds, I personally had a 12W0 back in the days, I ran a PPI A600 amp to it, 600watts of pure mother loving power, it lasted a whole 6 months before I blew it! I know it was going to happen but i did it anyway.
SKHILLS I bet you know squat about audio systems. I also bet you only know mainstream products too right? What are you running since you KNOW so much.
However JL is good, but in my book it is still very over priced.
Back to how JL sounds, I personally had a 12W0 back in the days, I ran a PPI A600 amp to it, 600watts of pure mother loving power, it lasted a whole 6 months before I blew it! I know it was going to happen but i did it anyway.
SKHILLS I bet you know squat about audio systems. I also bet you only know mainstream products too right? What are you running since you KNOW so much.
However JL is good, but in my book it is still very over priced.
#29
JL's are great products.... they can hold their own and they can handle more than RMS - which majority of speakers can do if the amps are sending a clean signal and you're smart with it (ie: not slamming test tones for extended periods, not dropping below tuning freq on a ported enclosure, and knowing what mechanical limits sound like).....
That being said, I think you can get equal or better performance/product elsewhere other than JL for the same or less money...
That being said, I think you can get equal or better performance/product elsewhere other than JL for the same or less money...
#30
Originally Posted by SKHILLS
I'm not about to get into a ____ing match that is mainly based on opinions so you can believe what you want... But believe when i say i know to a T what i am talking about.
Post what you want, but the content of your posts make it obvious to most people here that you DON'T know what you're talking about.
#32
nice try...
Originally Posted by trialsindude
JL amps use the RIPS technology basically making the watts stay the same no matter what ohms you are running or what voltage you are giving it.
Back to how JL sounds, I personally had a 12W0 back in the days, I ran a PPI A600 amp to it, 600watts of pure mother loving power, it lasted a whole 6 months before I blew it! I know it was going to happen but i did it anyway.
SKHILLS I bet you know squat about audio systems. I also bet you only know mainstream products too right? What are you running since you KNOW so much.
However JL is good, but in my book it is still very over priced.
Back to how JL sounds, I personally had a 12W0 back in the days, I ran a PPI A600 amp to it, 600watts of pure mother loving power, it lasted a whole 6 months before I blew it! I know it was going to happen but i did it anyway.
SKHILLS I bet you know squat about audio systems. I also bet you only know mainstream products too right? What are you running since you KNOW so much.
However JL is good, but in my book it is still very over priced.
YOU JUST PROVED MY POINT and you say i know nothing..... read my post and then yours... then go home say hi to moms go to your room and shoot yourself.
Who asked anything about JL AMPS ? everyone knows that the power is the same no matter what the impedance is.
If you want to talk knowledge PM me and I'll gladly answer anything you want to know... I have nothing to prove but do you....
I'm running you moms to the bank so she can pay my car note.....
Oh yeah about my indash-->VIDEO only.... Alpine installed in the glovebox......
#33
How does that prove anything? 600 watts to a 150 RMS sub will make the sub reach mechanical limits in no time.... but saying 500 watts from "the all mighty JL amp" will blow 2 subs that are rated for 250-300 each is just blasphemous... like I said, as long as you know what you're doing - you can generally send 150% of RMS power to almost any sub daily....
#34
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You're still stupid I was proving a point that it can handle a lot of power, but for 6 months straight worth of daily driving something is bound to give, for christ sake I gave it 6x the recommend power.
Anyway you still don't what you are taking about.
Go ahead keep on trying to justify your stupidity.
Like I said also go and learn how to spell and type.
____en FOB
Anyway you still don't what you are taking about.
Go ahead keep on trying to justify your stupidity.
Like I said also go and learn how to spell and type.
I'm running you moms to the bank so she can pay my car note.....
#35
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Originally Posted by SCI_TC_GUY
How does that prove anything? 600 watts to a 150 RMS sub will make the sub reach mechanical limits in no time.... but saying 500 watts from "the all mighty JL amp" will blow 2 subs that are rated for 250-300 each is just blasphemous... like I said, as long as you know what you're doing - you can generally send 150% of RMS power to almost any sub daily....
#36
[quote="trialsindude"]You're still stupid I was proving a point that it can handle a lot of power, but for 6 months straight worth of daily driving something is bound to give, for christ sake I gave it 6x the recommend power.
I gave it 6x the recommend power--> Grasshopper I think you were dumb on that day. 6 months if thats long to you then i think you buy them to blow them. Far from stupid I am...But you my friend are so smart for feeding those subs that amount of power for absolutely no reason but too blow them.
What I meant by even mentioning a JL AMP was that they put out the rated power (so do some others).... in comparison to some other brands. But you are correct it is first important to set the gains correctly; and if you know what you are doing you probably wont hurt anything. The situation I was thinking of the gains were all set to max...by the installer. My bad on that one..... I stand corrected....
tialsindude---> anger management...
I gave it 6x the recommend power--> Grasshopper I think you were dumb on that day. 6 months if thats long to you then i think you buy them to blow them. Far from stupid I am...But you my friend are so smart for feeding those subs that amount of power for absolutely no reason but too blow them.
What I meant by even mentioning a JL AMP was that they put out the rated power (so do some others).... in comparison to some other brands. But you are correct it is first important to set the gains correctly; and if you know what you are doing you probably wont hurt anything. The situation I was thinking of the gains were all set to max...by the installer. My bad on that one..... I stand corrected....
tialsindude---> anger management...
#37
[quote="SKHILLS"]
FOB <---- not even worth a response.
Originally Posted by trialsindude
You're still stupid I was proving a point that it can handle a lot of power, but for 6 months straight worth of daily driving something is bound to give, for christ sake I gave it 6x the recommend power.
I gave it 6x the recommend power--> Grasshopper I think you were dumb on that day. 6 months if thats long to you then i think you buy them to blow them. Far from stupid I am...But you my friend are so smart for feeding those subs that amount of power for absolutely no reason but too blow them.
What I meant by even mentioning a JL AMP was that they put out the rated power (so do some others).... in comparison to some other brands. But you are correct it is first important to set the gains correctly; and if you know what you are doing you probably wont hurt anything. The situation I was thinking of the gains were all set to max...by the installer. My bad on that one..... I stand corrected....
tialsindude---> anger management...
I gave it 6x the recommend power--> Grasshopper I think you were dumb on that day. 6 months if thats long to you then i think you buy them to blow them. Far from stupid I am...But you my friend are so smart for feeding those subs that amount of power for absolutely no reason but too blow them.
What I meant by even mentioning a JL AMP was that they put out the rated power (so do some others).... in comparison to some other brands. But you are correct it is first important to set the gains correctly; and if you know what you are doing you probably wont hurt anything. The situation I was thinking of the gains were all set to max...by the installer. My bad on that one..... I stand corrected....
tialsindude---> anger management...
#39
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PPI A600 amp don't out out their rated power, buddy you need to do research.
When I ran 600watts to that sub, did you notice it was a 12W0? I had that sub for 4 years already, as a home theater sub and during those 4 years it was seeing 320watts. For that 6 months I ran it, I want to burn it but it kept on kicking. After that day I moved onto a 12" RE (moving into FI soon too), still currently running it with a T10001BD amp. That amp RMS power is 750@2ohm, surprisingly enough the birthsheet that came with it stated 1100watts@2ohm.
AND if you going to rip on someone at least try to spell correctly, it shows how stupid you are.
When I ran 600watts to that sub, did you notice it was a 12W0? I had that sub for 4 years already, as a home theater sub and during those 4 years it was seeing 320watts. For that 6 months I ran it, I want to burn it but it kept on kicking. After that day I moved onto a 12" RE (moving into FI soon too), still currently running it with a T10001BD amp. That amp RMS power is 750@2ohm, surprisingly enough the birthsheet that came with it stated 1100watts@2ohm.
AND if you going to rip on someone at least try to spell correctly, it shows how stupid you are.
#40
Originally Posted by trialsindude
PPI A600 amp don't out out their rated power, buddy you need to do research.
When I ran 600watts to that sub, did you notice it was a 12W0? I had that sub for 4 years already, as a home theater sub and during those 4 years it was seeing 320watts. For that 6 months I ran it, I want to burn it but it kept on kicking. After that day I moved onto a 12" RE (moving into FI soon too), still currently running it with a T10001BD amp. That amp RMS power is 750@2ohm, surprisingly enough the birthsheet that came with it stated 1100watts@2ohm.
AND if you going to rip on someone at least try to spell correctly, it shows how stupid you are.
When I ran 600watts to that sub, did you notice it was a 12W0? I had that sub for 4 years already, as a home theater sub and during those 4 years it was seeing 320watts. For that 6 months I ran it, I want to burn it but it kept on kicking. After that day I moved onto a 12" RE (moving into FI soon too), still currently running it with a T10001BD amp. That amp RMS power is 750@2ohm, surprisingly enough the birthsheet that came with it stated 1100watts@2ohm.
AND if you going to rip on someone at least try to spell correctly, it shows how stupid you are.
are you that angry that you must resort to insults...? you need some puntang man for real.