turd.ferguson

I have two 12" pioneers in a bandpass and need to know what amp I need to run them. I've looked around online, but found nothing concrete... Hoping someone on here may be able to help. They are TS-W300R's (I know, they are hella-cheap). 600W max, 150W nom, 4 ohm. I called Best Buy, and the dude there said I need a monoblock that runs 500 rms. I asked a coworker, and they said no to a class d on 2 subs? He said I need a 2 channel amp that has 5-600W. As you can probably tell, I know nothing about audio, I am just looking for the cheapest way to run these subs w/o blowing anything up. Any help would be appreciated.

p.s... I will not be hooking these up in my tC, they are actually going in the back of a friends buick hearse. Need to get em in by next weekend for a local Halloween parade.

SparksAI

Nothing wrong with running 2 subs on a class D amplifier. You only need a single channel amp. Bass usually isn;t needed in stereo. But what you do need is an amp that is 2 Ohm stable on 1 channel. This has to do with how the speakers will be wired. They will need to be wired in parrallel. For an amp 500w RMS is over kill for those subs and will most like cause them damage. This is like the price is right. You are trying to get as close to 300 without going over. With some subs you can go over their rating and have no worries. These are usually really expensive subs.

My recommendation is this Precision Power amp
http://www.sparksai.com/product-p/s270.1.htm

It is 270w RMS at 2Ohm in a single channel. It will drive both of those subs as hard as they really should be driven. Don't fall for the numbers game, 500w is great, only when your speakers can handle it. added bonus with the PPI amps is they are coming with a free amp kit right now as well so that will save you about $50.

Murphys_Law

iTrader: (3)

kicker--zx300.1/500.1
jl slash--500/1
alpine--mrd-m1005
infinity--reference 611a
memphis--pr500.1

all awesome choices
BTW the kicker zx300.1 can be bought for less than 100 new

KaneoheKoa

Actually, 500w is not that much of an overkill. Too little power will kill a speaker faster than too much power (causes the amp to clip when pushed, which damages speaker coils by overheating them). Using a bigger amp than needed results in sharper bass hits with cleaner sound, but a bigger hit on the wallet, too. The key is in how you set your gains on the amp. Play your system with just the main speaker/amp at loud but comfortable volume. Then bring up the gains on the sub amp to get the punch you want off the subs. Voila! Finis.

turd.ferguson

I used to have them running off a 1000w amp, I think it was 2 channel. It was a generic brand, and I wass told it probably wasn't actually anywhere near 1000w. After a wreck, and the amp was broke, I tried running them off of a 480w sony (what was running my 6x9's), and the fuse in the amp burnt up. I mean the 480 would've been closer to 500, but did it not handle them because it wasn't 1 channel?

Murphys_Law

iTrader: (3)

the 480 sony was probably only 75-125rms

carben100

iTrader: (2)

Many cheap amps you see advertise their peak power, not their rms power. If that sony amp is similar to the one I just looked up, it was only 80w rms x 2 channels at 4 ohms.

Any amp that is 300w rms x 1 channel at 2 ohms or 150w rms x 2 channels at 4 ohms would suit your needs. I recommend the Rockford Fosgate Punch 300 or the Infinity Reference 1300a, but other people have also posted some good choices.

SparksAI

Sorry but this is wrong. No one has ever blown a speaker from under powering it. Here is a bit of reading material, don't use Yahoo answers as a knowledge base. http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

Turd, sony isn't known for their honesty in numbers all the time, but a lot of how your subs are going to hit are dependent on the amp. The reason Class D monoblocks are great for subs is as I mentioned you don't need stereo bass, and they usually have crossovers setup for the subs freq. range. The only worry you ever have from running a sub at or under it's nominal power is turning your gains up to high (but this is a concern for any amp no matter the size). That is what causes clipping. You may call around to some of the reputable shops in your area and see what they charge to tune. This is kinda like tuning your car, you can do it yourself but a professional with the right tools can do it better. A good tuner will break out an oscilloscope.

As far as power ratings go, stick to reputable companies or companies that are CEA-2006 certified (this is a third party fact checker) I sell a Pyle amp that they state is 700w x2 RMS, it will get out pumped by a Pioneer running 175w RMS.

highvoltage1

iTrader: (11)

So you got 2 subs eah with 150wrms and 4 ohms each.

use this link and enter sub info for a wiring guide as i am assuming your doing this yourself.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...2&woofer_imp=1
go with option 1.

I would look for an amp from a reputable company but it obviously doesnt have to be high end and go somewhere around 350-400wrms at 2ohms on the amp.

turd.ferguson

Specs on this look about right

Power Acoustik BAMF800/2. 800w class ab, has 150 rms per channel at 4 ohms, only 150 bones down the street at Best Buy.

Dunno bout the brand, but its got a 1 year warranty.

highvoltage1

iTrader: (11)

Yea that would work i prefer a little head room on the wattage but it will work. Never used them or heard much on them though.

GQQSE13

i will have to disagree with sparks and agree with the other guy; every audio shop and audio guru including the guys of acoustic edge will tell you underpowering can do more damage than over powering (granted you can keep larger amps gains down). and asking yahoo for answers is def not the way to go. caraudio.com/forum or the12volt.com are best forums for info like that

turd.ferguson

so would 185 watts x 2 RMS at 4 ohms be better?

turd.ferguson

ended up going with a cheap sony, the 185x2. wish it had more adjustments, but does the job. thanks for the replies.