1st time changing oil
#21
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teamNJCT
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Yeah, sometimes the techs over tighten them...then the next moron will over tighten it on purpose to try to get back at the last tech...It's just one giant ego battle
I know it's probably late...but they make oil filter wrenches.
Try to get a shop rag or towel or a shirt or something to get some extra friction if it's slippery. Or try from a different angle..Can't really help too much on this one .
I know it's probably late...but they make oil filter wrenches.
Try to get a shop rag or towel or a shirt or something to get some extra friction if it's slippery. Or try from a different angle..Can't really help too much on this one .
#25
If you are removing the filter from the top of the engine you turn the filter the other way (clockwise). You can try tightening it a little then loosening it to crack it loose. Usually the rubber gasket will stick like crazy - it just takes a bigger wrench - two choices leave it on and wait for the next oil change or risk breaking the filter and then you HAVE to take it off. If it crushes a little at the top it may come off easier since it may reduce the hold on the gasket that is stuck.
Adding oil to the new filter get the oil into the engine sooner when you start it up - fill it until is can't hold any more oil and then screw it back on - if it is going to spills a little then pour some out of the filter before you screw it on - usually the filter is at a slight angle on the engine so a really full filter will spill.
After you get the filter off drain the oil pan again - chances are some more oil found its way to the oil pan while you were getting the filter off. Then clean the drain hole area and the gasket on the drain plug and screw it in by hand all the way in and make sure it seats without any gritty grinding noise (dirt!) and then tighten it up a little NOT TOO TIGHT ! or else you will have trouble getting it off the next time. The filter is supposed to be turned 2/3 of a turn after the gasket makes contact but the easiest way to know when you have it tight enough is if you can loosen it. If you can't loosen it after putting it on you will have a stuck filter at the next oil change.
Adding oil to the new filter get the oil into the engine sooner when you start it up - fill it until is can't hold any more oil and then screw it back on - if it is going to spills a little then pour some out of the filter before you screw it on - usually the filter is at a slight angle on the engine so a really full filter will spill.
After you get the filter off drain the oil pan again - chances are some more oil found its way to the oil pan while you were getting the filter off. Then clean the drain hole area and the gasket on the drain plug and screw it in by hand all the way in and make sure it seats without any gritty grinding noise (dirt!) and then tighten it up a little NOT TOO TIGHT ! or else you will have trouble getting it off the next time. The filter is supposed to be turned 2/3 of a turn after the gasket makes contact but the easiest way to know when you have it tight enough is if you can loosen it. If you can't loosen it after putting it on you will have a stuck filter at the next oil change.
#27
They have filter wrenches to help with tight filters. Take your new filter to a parts store and use it to get the right size filter/band wrench. Shouldnt be over $10
Couple other things. You should always change the drain plug gasket. It looks like a washer, it may be made of nylon.
When you take the filter off, make sure the rubber gasket from the old filter is not stuck to the engine.
when you put the new filter on rub a film of fresh oil on the rubber gasket to prevent it sticking to the engine.
Do not over tighten the drain plug or the filter.
Couple other things. You should always change the drain plug gasket. It looks like a washer, it may be made of nylon.
When you take the filter off, make sure the rubber gasket from the old filter is not stuck to the engine.
when you put the new filter on rub a film of fresh oil on the rubber gasket to prevent it sticking to the engine.
Do not over tighten the drain plug or the filter.
#28
The damn thing STILL doesn't want to get off......
Just kidding!!! My neighbor is tech in training and I asked him for help. He struggled with it but got it loose. You guys should see it; looks like a pack of wolves tore it up. He told me whoever did my oil change last; used a filter wrench to tighten it up. Then told me "That's big no." Hand tighten it. So I did.
Car drove good; been out twice already. I bought K & N filter this time cause they are known to be top notch. Turns out now I know why they put wrench nut on theirs
Notes:
1. Put new oil onto the new filter.
2. Didn't change my drain plug cause it was metal screw with a metal washer. But I did towel off old oil.
3. I tighten up the drain plug as much as I can without force.
4. No oil drops where I changed the oil and where I parked (the three times. )
5. Car is idling at the normal RPMs but accelration is much smoother (I never seen the car drive like this. It's like he ate Wheaties this morning )
Just kidding!!! My neighbor is tech in training and I asked him for help. He struggled with it but got it loose. You guys should see it; looks like a pack of wolves tore it up. He told me whoever did my oil change last; used a filter wrench to tighten it up. Then told me "That's big no." Hand tighten it. So I did.
Car drove good; been out twice already. I bought K & N filter this time cause they are known to be top notch. Turns out now I know why they put wrench nut on theirs
Notes:
1. Put new oil onto the new filter.
2. Didn't change my drain plug cause it was metal screw with a metal washer. But I did towel off old oil.
3. I tighten up the drain plug as much as I can without force.
4. No oil drops where I changed the oil and where I parked (the three times. )
5. Car is idling at the normal RPMs but accelration is much smoother (I never seen the car drive like this. It's like he ate Wheaties this morning )
#29
A loose oil filter will leak when the engine is cold and the oil pressure is highest and if that happens it usually blows the gasket out. Check for oil drops on the filter itself. Sounds like you are all set! And of course check your oil level at each fillup of the gas tank.
#30
The car started up quite well and I let it ran for couple of minutes to spy for spots. It was 38 degrees this morning.
Car ran alot better once again. He didn't leak. I'll get him lifted again and spy at the filter later this week.
I guess my car like my way of doing it. Maybe he just likes to be giving the special gentle touch.
Cause when my co-worker did it last time. The car seem sluggish and couple of times barely started. Another thing is I don't think he put fresh oil into the new filter like I did. Maybe thats the difference? Who knows?
----------------
I've tried; Toyota regular oil, Toyota synthetic, Mobil regular, Pensoil regular, Mobil 1 synthetic. Out of those oils, the car runs better on Mobil 1 5-20. I always know when he needs oil cause he’ll idle rough and my fog lights with shake at long stop lights. When I check the oil, he's about centimeter short from the low line.
Anyone tried 0-20 on their tc? Cause I saw Advance Auto Parts sells Mobil 1 quarts. Around here IT'S HARD to find 5-20 and I finally found 0-20. I went to a Farm and Fleet store to get some oil; they didn't even have 5-20 for any oil.
I know it's mainly used for winter months for better starts and better fuel economy?
Car ran alot better once again. He didn't leak. I'll get him lifted again and spy at the filter later this week.
I guess my car like my way of doing it. Maybe he just likes to be giving the special gentle touch.
Cause when my co-worker did it last time. The car seem sluggish and couple of times barely started. Another thing is I don't think he put fresh oil into the new filter like I did. Maybe thats the difference? Who knows?
----------------
I've tried; Toyota regular oil, Toyota synthetic, Mobil regular, Pensoil regular, Mobil 1 synthetic. Out of those oils, the car runs better on Mobil 1 5-20. I always know when he needs oil cause he’ll idle rough and my fog lights with shake at long stop lights. When I check the oil, he's about centimeter short from the low line.
Anyone tried 0-20 on their tc? Cause I saw Advance Auto Parts sells Mobil 1 quarts. Around here IT'S HARD to find 5-20 and I finally found 0-20. I went to a Farm and Fleet store to get some oil; they didn't even have 5-20 for any oil.
I know it's mainly used for winter months for better starts and better fuel economy?
#31
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It's the thickness of the oil during the winter (hence the "W"). I'd stick with 5-20, mainly because it's what Toyota recommends.
Also, stay away from Pensoil. You said you prefer the Mobil1, haven't had any experience with it, but I haven't heard anything bad about it. Personally, I use Amsoil. You could always buy it online if you can't find it at a local store.
Also, stay away from Pensoil. You said you prefer the Mobil1, haven't had any experience with it, but I haven't heard anything bad about it. Personally, I use Amsoil. You could always buy it online if you can't find it at a local store.
#32
I heard from one of my work's Temps. Amsoil can be bought around here in part stores but it's $$$$.
Reason why I bought up 0-20 is, the manual states what I typed. I have '07.
But I did see Royal Purple at the parts store. Heard that was another good oil for the VVT-i. But they only had 5-30.
My problem is I drive too much! Which means I have to change oil more often. Hence why I decided to try OCs on my own. $65.00s at dealers & 10 minute shops were adding up.
But M1 is still good oil. The car knows the difference I rather spend extra money doing oil changes than more trips to repair shops.
Reason why I bought up 0-20 is, the manual states what I typed. I have '07.
But I did see Royal Purple at the parts store. Heard that was another good oil for the VVT-i. But they only had 5-30.
My problem is I drive too much! Which means I have to change oil more often. Hence why I decided to try OCs on my own. $65.00s at dealers & 10 minute shops were adding up.
But M1 is still good oil. The car knows the difference I rather spend extra money doing oil changes than more trips to repair shops.
#33
One of the best tools you can get for working on a car are Rhino ramps. You can get them from Pep Boys for $30 or so. I got mine about 8 years ago for $20, best $20 I ever spent.
And get a small filter wrench as well.
Don't overtighen the plug and make sure the socket is the right size or you'll strip it.
Now is a good time to hit up Sears for their Fathers Day tool sale, I know I will!
And get a small filter wrench as well.
Don't overtighen the plug and make sure the socket is the right size or you'll strip it.
Now is a good time to hit up Sears for their Fathers Day tool sale, I know I will!
#34
Originally Posted by Edmond
One of the best tools you can get for working on a car are Rhino ramps. You can get them from Pep Boys for $30 or so. I got mine about 8 years ago for $20, best $20 I ever spent.
And get a small filter wrench as well.
Don't overtighen the plug and make sure the socket is the right size or you'll strip it.
Now is a good time to hit up Sears for their Fathers Day tool sale, I know I will!
And get a small filter wrench as well.
Don't overtighen the plug and make sure the socket is the right size or you'll strip it.
Now is a good time to hit up Sears for their Fathers Day tool sale, I know I will!
and working at firestone doing alot of oil changes, my quick and easy 20 steps
1. remove filler cap
2. remove drain plug (toyota = 14 mm, honda = 17mm)
3. let as much oil drain as possible
4. wipe drain plug free of oil and alot of plugs have magnets on them to get loose metal to stick to it, clean that off
5. put drain plug back in (tighten with wrench [14mm])
6. remove oil filter, slowly because oil will drain up over the top of it and it can be very hot
7. make sure the filter gasket is still on the oil filer when you remove it so you dont double gasket.
8. let oil drain out of the filter spout.
9. dip finger in oil and lube the new oil filter gasket (just run finger around the oil gasket on top of filter, can be old or new oil)
10. spin oil filter on, making sure not to cross thread it.
11. tighten the filter by hand, not a wrench or anything, make sure it tight.
12. clean up spills on drain pan (brake clean)
13. lower car
14. add oil, but add about 1/2 quart lower then you think it takes
15.MAKE SURE TO PUT FILLER CAP BACK ON
16. start car, let run for 5-10 seconds to fill up the oil lines and fill up oil filter
17. shut car off, look under car for leaks
18. check dipstick, add oil as needed.
19. make sure filler cap is on, shut hood.
20. have a good day. (check oil level every time you fill up gas)
and you dont have to fill the filter 2/3-3/4 full of oil.
#35
I'm a part of the Craftsmen club which offers additional discounts on certain tools. I also work PT at Sears so I get a discount.
The Craftsmen club is free to join.
I would also suggest 6 point sockets as opposed to 12 point sockets.
The Craftsmen club is free to join.
I would also suggest 6 point sockets as opposed to 12 point sockets.
#36
I recommend taking the oil filter off first so that when you drop the hot filter into the oil catch pan there is not a lot of oil in the pan (from draining the engine first) for it to splash and get all over the oil filter you are taking off.
#37
Originally Posted by XPRESSCION
I heard from one of my work's Temps. Amsoil can be bought around here in part stores but it's $$$$.
Reason why I bought up 0-20 is, the manual states what I typed. I have '07.
But I did see Royal Purple at the parts store. Heard that was another good oil for the VVT-i. But they only had 5-30.
My problem is I drive too much! Which means I have to change oil more often. Hence why I decided to try OCs on my own. $65.00s at dealers & 10 minute shops were adding up.
But M1 is still good oil. The car knows the difference I rather spend extra money doing oil changes than more trips to repair shops.
Reason why I bought up 0-20 is, the manual states what I typed. I have '07.
But I did see Royal Purple at the parts store. Heard that was another good oil for the VVT-i. But they only had 5-30.
My problem is I drive too much! Which means I have to change oil more often. Hence why I decided to try OCs on my own. $65.00s at dealers & 10 minute shops were adding up.
But M1 is still good oil. The car knows the difference I rather spend extra money doing oil changes than more trips to repair shops.
0W-20 My neighbor who is a retired engineer from GM told me, that 0W-20 is a higher temperature oil and helps cool and run the engine more efficiently during hot summer months and 5W-20 should be used during winter months since at start up, it's more loose than 0W-20 would be at 30 degrees. But at a 100 degree start up and driving, 0W-20 can efficiently cool and keep a really good viscosity rate at the slightly higher temps, plus i guess improve fuel economy somehow .
so in short, 0W-20 is like your summer tires
and 5W-20 is your winter tires.
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