Common tC Issues and Various Fixes
#86
power window malfunction fix
i know there are going to be alot of ppl wif this problem sooner or later. the battery is not going to last forever. after i disconnected my battery when replacing my car system fuse, my power windows wouldn't work right. i actually heard of this first from chef raekwon on his post. but here is the fix, jus thought it would be handy for all u tc owners. u shouldn't have to go thru what we went thru.
IF THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED OR RUN DOWN:
the power window may not operate automatically and the jam protection function will not funtion correctly after you reconnect, replace, or recharge the battery. at this time, the indicator lights of the switches will flash. in any of these cases, you should NORMALIZE the power window on each door. (this includes the sunroof).
to normalize the power windows:
1. Push down the power window switch of each door and lower the windows half-way.
2. Pull up the switch until the windows close and hold the switch for at least one second. (it makes a click sound).
your windows should work after this. if it doesn't then sumthing else is wrong and u need the dealer to diagnose. but it definately isn't ur motors.
IF THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED OR RUN DOWN:
the power window may not operate automatically and the jam protection function will not funtion correctly after you reconnect, replace, or recharge the battery. at this time, the indicator lights of the switches will flash. in any of these cases, you should NORMALIZE the power window on each door. (this includes the sunroof).
to normalize the power windows:
1. Push down the power window switch of each door and lower the windows half-way.
2. Pull up the switch until the windows close and hold the switch for at least one second. (it makes a click sound).
your windows should work after this. if it doesn't then sumthing else is wrong and u need the dealer to diagnose. but it definately isn't ur motors.
#87
Has anyone had an issue with a clicking noise coming from under there car when shifting? It only does it when I shift from 1-2-3 there is no noise with 4-5. But when ever i let off of the clutch in 1-2-3 there is a loud click sound, is this common? It doesn't matter is the car has been running for 5 min or 4 hours it still makes the noise, it just gets louder and more constant the longer i run my car for!!
#88
Side view mirror "chirping" ?
I'm not sure if anybody else has ever had this problem...
But my drivers side view mirror, as i'm driving, "chirps", is the only way i can describe the noise. I know it's coming from the side view mirror because if i tap on it lightly with my knuckles it makes the same noise. I have no idea what could cause it but it's extremely annoying.
I have a pretty damn good CA system, and even when it's cranking loud i can still hear the stupid thing, it just chirps along...
About the most annoying thing i can imagine,
But my drivers side view mirror, as i'm driving, "chirps", is the only way i can describe the noise. I know it's coming from the side view mirror because if i tap on it lightly with my knuckles it makes the same noise. I have no idea what could cause it but it's extremely annoying.
I have a pretty damn good CA system, and even when it's cranking loud i can still hear the stupid thing, it just chirps along...
About the most annoying thing i can imagine,
#91
Just incase anyone was wondering about what the clicking noise was coming from that I had posted earlier in the trend, it was my drivers side axel!!!! The dealership didn't go into specifics, but they had to replace it under warranty.
#92
sunroof problem
i now have the problem with the sunroof not closing, it started during the first couple days of the heatwave in CA.
haven't had the chance to take it to the shop or grease it, but my interim solution is to close it by pressing the sunroof button repeatedly (instead of keeping it depressed)... so that you close the sunroof a bit at a time. i guess doing it that way doesn't trigger the safety mechanism or whatever. kind of a stupid solution until i have time to check it out more.
haven't had the chance to take it to the shop or grease it, but my interim solution is to close it by pressing the sunroof button repeatedly (instead of keeping it depressed)... so that you close the sunroof a bit at a time. i guess doing it that way doesn't trigger the safety mechanism or whatever. kind of a stupid solution until i have time to check it out more.
#93
Re: sunroof problem
Originally Posted by bobodunno
i now have the problem with the sunroof not closing, it started during the first couple days of the heatwave in CA.
haven't had the chance to take it to the shop or grease it, but my interim solution is to close it by pressing the sunroof button repeatedly (instead of keeping it depressed)... so that you close the sunroof a bit at a time. i guess doing it that way doesn't trigger the safety mechanism or whatever. kind of a stupid solution until i have time to check it out more.
haven't had the chance to take it to the shop or grease it, but my interim solution is to close it by pressing the sunroof button repeatedly (instead of keeping it depressed)... so that you close the sunroof a bit at a time. i guess doing it that way doesn't trigger the safety mechanism or whatever. kind of a stupid solution until i have time to check it out more.
try sitting in your car with it on and playing with it. i'm almost positive what you have to do is close the sunroof with the button, and while it's at the closed position, hold the "close sunroof button" for 30 seconds or so, then it memorizes that position and you can close it like you would the windows.
try that.
...if that makes sense?
#95
Re: Engine and Body Ground
Originally Posted by toyota_scion_tc
The stock tc body and engine ground are 10ga wire which is really tiny wiring. I have a manual tc and when I come to a stop my headlights at night would dim slightly for a second then return to normal. The first thing I tried has fixed this. I went to a audio store and got some excellent quality 4ga wire and ring terminals and made a new ground cable for the battery. Its self explanatory just remove the old ground wire and make another one identical to it. Things you will need to do this. 10mm wrench, 12mm wrench and I believe a 14mm wrench. 1st disconnect the - battery terminal from the battery and tuck it beside the battery so it will not make contact to the terminal. Undo the plastic clips that retain the cable close to the battery. disconnect the 10mm bolt that goes to the body ground. The starter is in the way of the other ground. You will have to unbolt the starter but not remove it. Once it is unbolted undo the engine ground underneath the starter. To make the new cable I went to auto zone and bought a lead free battery terminal. I also had some zip ties and wire loom. And I made the custom battery cable identical to the battery cable you just took off. Then bolt everything back on and you are done. I have notice after a while it still does it but only 1/5 of the time. Not nearly as bad as it was.
#96
Re: Engine and Body Ground
Originally Posted by toyota_scion_tc
The stock tc body and engine ground are 10ga wire which is really tiny wiring. I have a manual tc and when I come to a stop my headlights at night would dim slightly for a second then return to normal. The first thing I tried has fixed this. I went to a audio store and got some excellent quality 4ga wire and ring terminals and made a new ground cable for the battery. Its self explanatory just remove the old ground wire and make another one identical to it. Things you will need to do this. 10mm wrench, 12mm wrench and I believe a 14mm wrench. 1st disconnect the - battery terminal from the battery and tuck it beside the battery so it will not make contact to the terminal. Undo the plastic clips that retain the cable close to the battery. disconnect the 10mm bolt that goes to the body ground. The starter is in the way of the other ground. You will have to unbolt the starter but not remove it. Once it is unbolted undo the engine ground underneath the starter. To make the new cable I went to auto zone and bought a lead free battery terminal. I also had some zip ties and wire loom. And I made the custom battery cable identical to the battery cable you just took off. Then bolt everything back on and you are done. I have notice after a while it still does it but only 1/5 of the time. Not nearly as bad as it was.
#97
Originally Posted by 400amonth
I would like to know fixes for rattles around the steering column and under dash left side of driver.
If you take the cover off your interior fuses... look thru and follow your hand to where a large cluster of wires are taped. They are usually hitting the thin metal bar in there and causing a sound(that I think) is more annoying than the infamous sunroof rattle.
Fix:
Put a soft piece of weather lining (similar to soft foam tape)... in between the thin metal bar and the cluster of taped up wires.
Thats it, rattle gone!!!
#99
Here's my issue--> If I disconnect my battery terminal, then reconnect it, my car doesn't start the first time, it almost does, but not quite. This has happened to me a few times, but doesn't always happen.
Any explination for this? Or has anyone else had this problem?
Any explination for this? Or has anyone else had this problem?