Agent99

iTrader: (1)

Tufoil Engine Treatment

This is annoying. I cant find one bad thing people are saying about this stuff but I know "too good to be true" when I see it.

Its an oil additive that, apparently, people friggin swear on their mothers graves by. Ever heard of it? Should I use it in the tC?

Amazons reviews are spotless
http://www.amazon.com/Tufoil-Engine-...=pd_sim_auto_1

lltysonll

never heard of it
those amazon reviews are flawless so far.

mindoculae

There is even a NASA technical paper about Tufoil.

The inventor --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franklin_G._Reick

"Tufoil named “The World’s Most Efficient Lubricant” in the Guinness Book of World Records, 1996, is the brainchild of this award-winning inventor. It has maintained its global popularity for over 30 years. Reick created this lubricant and multitude of others to serve many industrial products, such as weapons, automobiles and machinery."

http://www.tufoil.com/faqs.html

vettereddie

I would not recommend using this. It's a teflon-based additive like Slick 50 that works by having the dispersed teflon particles adhere to wear surfaces, lowering the coefficient of friction. Sounds great, but the flip-side is that it also adheres to the rest of the oil passageways. Think plack buildup in an artery, eventually the buildup will clog fine oil passages and lead to location-specific oil starvation.

From the NASA report so often referenced in the rave customer reviews:
http://www.skepdic.com/slick50.html

Stick to a quality synthetic oil at the recommended weight and change it every 5k with a new filter and the motor will outlast the rest of the car. I like the stock toyota filters, but K&N make a nice one too, that even has a nut welded on it for easy removal. Mobil1 also isn't bad, and they usually have an oil / filter bundle at advance auto.

Carlanga

a good quality oil (syn prefered) like Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Ultra, etc. There was a guy here not long ago that sent his oil to get analized (Castrol Edge) and the numbers were impressive. On top of that he was supercharged and I'm sure he runs his car a bit harder than the average Joe with an NA tC.

There's no need for additives when running a top notch oil, it might actually be detrimental to the composition of the oil and might do more harm than good. .02

Agent99

iTrader: (1)

Good research man! I'm with you in that I always stick to the Toyota oil filters. I also only use Mobil 1 full synthetic.

I found out about this stuff because I'm trying to do everything I can for my engine. I recently learned its a good idea to run a bottle of Techron (injector cleaner) through every 5 or 10k miles. So I'll stick to that and my 3k oil changes.

Carlanga

Damn man, 3k oil intervals with syn are such a waste. U could easily do 6k if u wanted, unless turbo which in that case 4.5-5k wouldn't be bad with a good syn.

Un4Scene

I always stick with Valvoline SynPower oil, as do the majority of the mechanics that I've ever known. There's a long standing debate about Parafin-based oils such as Penzoil and Quaker State. Parafin tends to turn in to foam when it gets too hot, which can lead to problems in the motor. While all motor oils (that I know of) contain some Parafin, some have more than others. I'll go with the old "better safe than sorry" on the topic. Valvoline, Mobil, and Castrol are about the best you can get without going to racing products.

For a filter, I like the K&N. It's the best I've seen that's still reasonably priced. Bosch also makes a decent one. The oil filter is not something that you should cheap out on if you want the car to last a long time. Avoid brands like Fram and STP. If you don't believe me just look inside a generic Fram filter and a K&N piece side by side. You'll see the difference.

If you know that you're going longer between oil changes than you should, then you should stick with a full synthetic oil if the car has relatively low mileage. If the car has higher mileage, and hasn't been babied on a synthetic, then DO NOT switch to one. The increased lubrication of a full synthetic will probably cause it to seep past the piston rings where they've worn against the cylinder wall. In other words, you may start burning oil when you never have before.

As for additives... there's two primary types. Additives that aid in lubrication, and additives that clean out deposits. If you've always changed your oil as necessary then you'll probably never get any benefit from the first type, and minimal benefit from the second, and even that wont be significant till you get up to at least 100k+ miles. If you haven't been as careful about your oil changes, then you might want to try one of the second type of additives once in a while, and if your starting with a low mileage car, then the first type as well. I've always heard good things about the Lucas products. Remember though, if it aids in lubrication then it will probably thin the oil, which can lead to the same problem as switching to a full synthetic on a high mileage engine.

Hope this helps!

Carlanga

^ not be be an ___ but you need to read on. Those years of Quaker or pennzoil are long gone. Pennzoil Platinum has shown to protect better than top/expensive oils for it's price. Go to bobistheoilguy and read for yourself some oil analysis. Now there's Ultra out there and it is a Group 5 oil, it's a very stout oil and seems very promising. Has a very high initial TBN and HTHS numbers, great for long intervals and high heat like turbos. BTW, Pennzoil is now own by shell.

K&N, Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Royal Purple filters are pretty much the same, I have used them all and opened them as well. As far as filtration goes, Purolator Pure One/Bosch Premium are by far the best bang for the buck and also offer better filtration than the first ones I mentioned.

Just so you know I'm currently running Amsoil in my car, not Pennzoil. I do run it in my wife's car though, but if I had to run an over the counter oil in my turbo tC, it would be Ultra.