I agree with the concept that N2O and a s/c or t/c work in a similar manner. They are not all forms of forced induction though. N2O approximately doubles the oxygen content of air going into the engine. This has the same effect as doubling the atmospheric pressure that the engine sees (read run 14.7 psi on a turbo).

Careful with the terminology. When people refer to a rich air/fuel mixture they mean excess fuel. N2O is not a fuel, but could be called an oxygen enricher.

 

wow... you REALLY don't know what you're talking about do you?

 

What makes you say that?

 

I always hear about Forged pistons,

So... If i want to do N/A, I would get a higher compression forged pistons??, how high of a compression could i go?, and how much increase in power would that give??

 

Slightly off topic, but funny. I was at AutoZone yesterday picking up a chamois and some cleaning supplies. Wife walks up with a limited edition tag, only $4.99. What a deal! My car can be KUSTOM by only adding a P-W-T limitedEdtion decal. What will they think of next!?!?!?!?!?

 

Forged pistons are used for longivity, they do not increase HP. Your compression ratio is 10-1 already, you can't raise it much unless you want to run race gas all the time. It would not gain that much by itself anyway.

Engines are a complete package/system. To gain maximum benifit you must ensure all the parts work together or your results will be lots of $$ spent for not much gain.

There are expensive software systems that can simulate engine configurations within a couple % but you need info to input that is not avialable for these engines. Desktop dyno is not very accurate.

ken

 

buy a new engine and send it to a performance shop and get them to build up the internals, then swap the engine and sell the old one.

 

well, first off, why's everyone always gotta jump on people. if he wants to make his scion (whichever it is) fast, let him try. i bet those guys in japan have xB's that would woop on a lot of the cars here. anyways with that said, whats a lot of hp? because if you are comparing a 1.5L engine to a 5.0L V8, that just doesn't work. for one, this car is lighter, so 1hp and 1 ft/pound of torque will mean more to these cars. i think making monster numbers on this engine would probably equate to something like 160 to the wheels. and like some people said on this thread, you are gonna need some cash to get anything like that without forced induction. you gonna need to custom a lot of stuff. i agree with the bore, port, polish post.

matt

 

make it all short and sweet, if you looking for a small increase get as much bolt on engine parts you can i.e. headers, intake, exh, etc.

if you want a lil bit more than that it would be cheaper to go Forced Induction, instead of getting new internals, increasing compression, polishing heads etc.

my 2 pennies hope it helps

*i put Blitz SC on my xB, and i got no complaints here, it drives good*

 

There is NO more cost-effective way to substantially increase horsepower than forced induction ESPECIALLY on these cars with their teeny tiny engines.

Sure, you could spend $1000's getting the heads ported and polished, buy a $800 TRD header and and expensive fart pipe exhaust..

You'll wind up with 12 more horsepower and all of it will be at the top end of the tach.

Anyone who tries to tell you a chip or an intake or ANYTHING other than FI is going to give you anything more than a tiny bump in power on these cars does not know what they are talking about.

When you have 1.5 liters to work with, your options are extremely limited dude.

Whats wrong with forced induction anyway? If you're going to mod your car, why spend $1500 on intake, exhaust , yellow plug wires and a CAI (the full rice boy set up) and get 8 more horsepower when you can spend $3k or so and get a supercharger or turbocharger and get 30-50 more horsepower.????????

THink about it.

My only mod so far has been the TRD short shifter...but when I do start crackin' into things I'm not going to spend $200 per horsepower for my mods.

 

rims, a wing , ____ty sounding buzz tube and some subs. that always seems to do it. I forgot the ground effects

 

Yall shouldn't forget that a good shifter and a sticky set of tires will do wonders on the street. This bein the first import fwd car I'm working with I'm sure I have loads to learn. But I do know a little about rwd V8s and I'm sure some of the same stuff applies.

Good tires and shifter will knock a half second off a 15 second fox body in the quarter and destroy faster cars light to light on the street. In the xB you should only have a traction problem in 1st, but if you can put 2 cars on the chump in the Celica next to ya then you'll probly beat him to the next light. The xB is already geared real short, so you don't have to worry about gearing. With enough revs I have no problem boiling the stock tires on my wifes xB (I REALLY dig burn outs)...if I put some nice sticky tires on instead that spinning turns into acceleration. I havn't even hammered it yet, it's only got 500 miles on it.

This is my plan for the car...maybe some of you fwd car guys can school me and let me know if I'm heading in the right direction...

Shifter...stock shifter is always the first thing to go in any of my cars. Short crisp shifts make any driver rock.

Intake...nothing fancy...jus somethin I can tap into with the dry nitrous set up and pipe plug it back up for service at Toyota.

Stock exhaust...this thing needs all the torqe it can get...on my V8s it's a good idea to open the exhaust for more top end, but a motor making 350 ft pounds can afford to loose 30 or so in exchange for 30hp. This isn't a strip car, all it's battles will be on the street...short and sweet. Plus my wife doesn't want anything too loud...

30-50 Dry Shot of nitrous...probly a Zex kit, but I'm still lookin into it. The packaging on this unit is awsome...Just one box and a couple of lines and wires to run. Makes my NOS kit look like a dinosaur, and it should be very easy to remove when needed. The rear floor pan has plenty of room to mount a bottle, so I wont even need an opener.

17"x7" rims...I know everybody digs the 18 and up sizes, but try to find traction with a tall rim...much less good tires. Nitto Extreme 555 kick ___ on the street and they wear pretty decent.

The rest will be cosmetic. This wont be any kind of street terror, but it should move out pretty well. Anyone sayin they don't want power in their xB is full of it. My wife wants the funky look AND a lil kick in the ___ when she feels like it. This is a huge step down in power for her and even though she said the look was enough she's startin to realize it aint. Who REALLY wants a kick ___ lookin car that can't get out of it's own way?

Let me know what you think...Kapt

 

ok, u racer wannabes.....
ask any good tuner if its a good idea to put a turbo on a engine thats pushing 10:1 compression....
your tuning better be spot on if you go this route, cause one small detonation and ur picking up pieces of your engine and putting them in the back of ur xb or whatever.
can u do it?? yes, u can do anything if your willing (and able) to spend a fortune making your brick with wheels go fast...
i would urge anyone who buys a turbo kit to get it custom tuned......

 

very constructive evo...Thanks for letting me in on the compression ratio volumetric efficiency secret...whew...I was gonna run 18psi in my flux capacitor till you chirped in with that lil brown nugget of knowledge...

 

+

lmfao....

 

For the most part if you buy a "bolt on" kit, most of the "tuning" has already been done when they tested the prototype. The Matrix XRS has a 2ZZ-GE, with 11.5 to 1 compression ratio and there is a "bolt on" kit for it that requires no tuning. You can find a few extra HP by tuning, but this whole "your engine will blow up" thing is BS.

 

They can't be runnin too much boost with a 11.5 :1 CR...7psi on a xB wont get you very much for the money. I used to run 21psi on an old SVO 2.3...it had a 8.2:1 CR and forged internals from the factory. Blowin up the engine is not BS...it will happen when you push the limits. I imagine you could shim the head with a thicker gasket to drop the CR, but not by much...turbo charging is not the way I'd go with an xB...Nitrous is the way IMO. CR wont dictate how far you can go with nitrous...the fuel system and engine integrity will.

Why is it noone wants to help the new guy here? Not one of yall have any comments on the set-up I propose? I can see that most Scion owners are not "car guys", but cmon...someone has to dig these cars AND have a little knowledge about makin em better...

Kapt

 

The 2ZZ-GE Turbo kit on a stock matrix is recomended to run 7psi for 91 octane, no pinging. the power went from 159hp 116 lb/ft to 234 hp 168 lb/ft that's a 47% increase in HP and a 44% increase in torque. This kit includes a turbo and all ducting (both exhaust side and intake side, so a full exhaust intake, and a vishnu management unit) giving that we make about 92 or so HP at the wheels stock, I would be VERY happy with 130 hp at the wheels. I would not recomend using nitrous, lest you don't mind voiding your warrenty, because no matter how easy it is to remove for warrenty stuff, if your motor or tranny quit working at any time, it usually happens at the worst time (i.e. not at home) so you would have to worry about removing it before you get towed to the dealer. also, Nitrous is ILLEGAL to be used on the street, where as depending on your state, most Forced induction kits are legal. As for the comment that ["most Scion owners are not "car guys""] I find that Completely untrue. I think that most people that buy the xB ARE in large more into cars than any other car in it's price range. Sure, the civic is more popular, but there is a much higher percent that drive civics that are the whole "put gas and drive" kind. I know I work on a lot of different cars, and even had a 2.3 turbo powered ranger (turbo coupe T-bird engine) but mine had 8.0:1 CR. 10 years ago no one thought a car would come stock with 11.5 CR like the 2ZZ-GE has, much less be able to put a turbo on it and run pump gas. ECU's do wonders, and believe it or not, we've made advances in car technology since the SVO. 20 years IS a lot of time.

 

yeah, very funny kapthowdy.....
lets see, im running a 475 whp evo, and a 600 hp cobra, both on pump gas.....lets just say i probably have a little more knowledge in turbos, superchargers, and a whole lot of other stuff than you do....i dont sit around writing stupid posts, thinking about horsepower, ive actually done it....2 both my cars...
first off, i really wouldnt recommend an after market turbo kit for this car....if toyota makes it, thats different. but if you just "have" to, have it custom tuned. number one, just because it "comes pretuned" or whatever, doesent mean its a very good tune...do you have first or second hand knowledge that these companies are capable tuners?? and when i say "tune" im referring more to air/fuel ratios so u dont ever run lean....if you run lean, yes, u will be looking at a blown motor, thats not bs
ill sell ya a clue for 2 bucks....
and i REALLY agree that another 30hp or so is not worth the cost...
if ur looking for a fast ride, ur looking in the wrong place with the xb.....sorry.

 

exactly. but that doesn;t mean the car is not fun to drive. some good tires, a swaybar set and a few other handling goodies will make a huge difference in how much you enjoy driving your car for much less than putting the money into HP.

with bolt on's, i figure that $1000 will get you about 10 - 20 HP at the wheels tops.

with about $1000 in suspension parts, you could get a swaybar ($225), springs ($175), STB ($225), and struts ($375) or tires ($400) and kill the car with 10 more HP around a twisty road.

i guess i will never understand the point of dragracing in a car with small displacement that was never meant to go fast. if you want to go fast in a straight line, get a used camaro / rustang, dump about 3 grand in the motor and another 2 into the suspension / tires. you will have spent the same amount as you would on a scion but be about 3 - 4 seconds faster in the quarter mile.