How long did you keep you stock brake pads and rotors?
02-28-2008, 09:31 PM
#22
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ok ...... by "blip" you mean tap the gas to get the rpms to around where they need to be when the clutch is release in the lower gear.
I already do this to some degree naturally so that there isn't a harsh shift.
Now, why do you say that?
What makes you so special? 
I already do this to some degree naturally so that there isn't a harsh shift.
Now, why do you say that?
(or in my case just maintain gas pedal pressure)
02-28-2008, 10:05 PM
#26
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like i said, I just dont let off at alluntil after the downshift is complete. then I let the engine brake until the next downshift starts at which point I hold throttle as if I was going to cruise, and repeat the cycle.
02-29-2008, 02:35 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by Shaka_Z
like i said, I just dont let off at alluntil after the downshift is complete. then I let the engine brake until the next downshift starts at which point I hold throttle as if I was going to cruise, and repeat the cycle.
03-01-2008, 05:13 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by Shaka_Z
pretty much. the idea is to rev the engine to the rpm it would be at in the lower gear at the speed you are going. for instance, say in you're cruising at 70 in 5th gear - the engine should be at about 3250 rpm - and want to downshift to 4th. clutch in, blip (or in my case just maintain gas pedal pressure) throttle to raise rpm to about 4250rpm then release the clutch. simple. once you get the hang of it, you should be able to execute downshifts so smoothly that under most conditions the only way you can tell you have downshifted is the sound of the engine.
03-01-2008, 04:54 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by thebox
i have 58k on mine still havent change the brake pads. Think its about time to change them now. So where did everybody buy there brake pads from and how much? Looking for the best price. Thanks in advance...
03-25-2008, 10:05 PM
#36
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I changed my front pads recently at 22k to Hawk HPS pads. I didnt resurface the rotors or sand off the old pad residue because I didnt have time in Auto Class. Now I've got a mushy pedal. I've thought about machining the rotors but from what i've measured i have about 2mm of rotor left before its recommended they get changed. I'm trying to figure out the best blank rotors to used or should i just sand away the old brake residue?
05-14-2008, 09:40 PM
#40
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I just changed mine at ~30K miles, they weren't even half-way worn. I had just been in an accident and got it back from the body shop and I heard some rubbing noise from my wheels so I changed my brakes. Turns out it was the sheet metal shield behind the rotor and it was bent into the rotor...hence the rubbing.
all in all it cost me 25 bucks for the front pads and 13 bucks for the rear pads and less than an hour of my time.
all in all it cost me 25 bucks for the front pads and 13 bucks for the rear pads and less than an hour of my time.
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