I fixed the throttle delay for free. Super easy fix *PIX*
#43
I did something related to this a while back. However, my main concern was that the gas pedal was too close to me (relative to the other pedals) and the spring load was too light, not allowing me to fully rest my foot on the pedal.
I did add thickness to the stop, but did so in order to move the pedal down. The potentiometer that sends the signal to the ECU has some adjustability, so if all you want to do is change the start position of the pot, you could probably do so without even adding thickness to the stop. However, I suspect that the ECU will compensate for any adjustment you make.
You can remove the pedal assembly by unplugging the wiring connector and removing a couple of bolts.
The pot can be adjusted by loosening the two nuts shown in this picture.
Before you do that, though, you may want to mark the starting point with paint, like this:
Like I said, I did add thickness to the stop, but then I adjusted the pot back to its original starting alignment.
I also added some spacers between the pedal arm rod and the spring legs to increase the pedal force.
If any of you have had lasting effects from this mod, let me know and I'll try readjusting the potentiometer. I would love to bump up the idle a bit. My car idles at around 650 rpm, when it needs to be around 800-900 rpm so that it will idle smoothly. I just figured that the ECU would zero out the pedal signal at startup.
I did add thickness to the stop, but did so in order to move the pedal down. The potentiometer that sends the signal to the ECU has some adjustability, so if all you want to do is change the start position of the pot, you could probably do so without even adding thickness to the stop. However, I suspect that the ECU will compensate for any adjustment you make.
You can remove the pedal assembly by unplugging the wiring connector and removing a couple of bolts.
The pot can be adjusted by loosening the two nuts shown in this picture.
Before you do that, though, you may want to mark the starting point with paint, like this:
Like I said, I did add thickness to the stop, but then I adjusted the pot back to its original starting alignment.
I also added some spacers between the pedal arm rod and the spring legs to increase the pedal force.
If any of you have had lasting effects from this mod, let me know and I'll try readjusting the potentiometer. I would love to bump up the idle a bit. My car idles at around 650 rpm, when it needs to be around 800-900 rpm so that it will idle smoothly. I just figured that the ECU would zero out the pedal signal at startup.
#47
Originally Posted by dslrdave
Maybe you can wedge a mirror in there to take pics, but it does sound pretty easy.
Keep us informed as to how long this lasts.
Keep us informed as to how long this lasts.
but yeah, its very easy
#48
it shouldnt zero out the pedal at all. at least it hasnt on mine. Mine is still nice and punchy.
I like sdparks approach as well but I wanted to keep it simple. I didnt feel like messing with the pot. Just wanted to take the easy approach to it. and it seems to be working fine for 3 days now
I like sdparks approach as well but I wanted to keep it simple. I didnt feel like messing with the pot. Just wanted to take the easy approach to it. and it seems to be working fine for 3 days now
#49
Okay, since I have nothing better to do (my work is still closed from the hurricane), I went downstairs to adjust the potentiometer.
If you want to try this, you may find it easier not trying to increase the stop thickness, but instead, loosen the two nuts (7mm) holding the pot to the pedal assembly. Loosen them just enough so that you can rotate the body of the pot, but tight enough so you can let go of it without it changing position.
With the car running and completely warmed up, and the a/c off, note your rpm at idle, then rotate the body of the pot until you get the rpm where you want it. Tighten down the nuts and that's it.
I bumped my idle up from about 650 to 800. I'll let you know if it stays put.
If you want to try this, you may find it easier not trying to increase the stop thickness, but instead, loosen the two nuts (7mm) holding the pot to the pedal assembly. Loosen them just enough so that you can rotate the body of the pot, but tight enough so you can let go of it without it changing position.
With the car running and completely warmed up, and the a/c off, note your rpm at idle, then rotate the body of the pot until you get the rpm where you want it. Tighten down the nuts and that's it.
I bumped my idle up from about 650 to 800. I'll let you know if it stays put.
#50
Originally Posted by Harmonic_tC
it shouldnt zero out the pedal at all. at least it hasnt on mine. Mine is still nice and punchy.
I hope this fix does last. Maybe the reason some other posters had a diminishing effect is because their stop thinned out after use if they used something too soft.
Increasing the thickness of the stop does move the start position of the pedal down and increases the spring preload a bit, both of which I think are good things on the tC.
#52
OK i have been out there for 30 min and i eather get no effect or may to high rpms like 1500. and when i drive it around the block my auto tranny when it shifts down into 1st it slams hard! also my brakes feel alot weaker cuz the car is trying to go forward..
#53
Originally Posted by sdparks
Originally Posted by Harmonic_tC
it shouldnt zero out the pedal at all. at least it hasnt on mine. Mine is still nice and punchy.
I hope this fix does last. Maybe the reason some other posters had a diminishing effect is because their stop thinned out after use if they used something too soft.
Increasing the thickness of the stop does move the start position of the pedal down and increases the spring preload a bit, both of which I think are good things on the tC.
I think you are right, people are using a material that is too soft. They need to use rubber or plastic.
You do awesome writeups BTW
#54
Originally Posted by miamibusta69
OK i have been out there for 30 min and i eather get no effect or may to high rpms like 1500. and when i drive it around the block my auto tranny when it shifts down into 1st it slams hard! also my brakes feel alot weaker cuz the car is trying to go forward..
#55
Originally Posted by idriveatC
So i can do this to the clutch too... My clutch has like 1inch of play that doesnt do anything... Its very loose for the first inch and it has no effect on the car.
#56
i did this mod. at first i used the two pieces of rubber like in the pic. when i started my car, it revved to like 2700 and dropped down to about 1500, it was just too much for me. i tried lifting the pedal to mash it down a little, it would drop the rpm, but it would always return to about 1500.
** i let the engine warm up fully before trying this. i recommend you do so also.
so, i took one of the rubber pieces off and tried that by itself. it didn't make much difference over stock.
then i came up with the idea to layer electrical tape over the rubber piece until i got the rpm and repsonse i wanted. i layered about half as much as a rubber piece and tried it. my rpms were at about 1000. i figured i'd give it a go around the neighborhood. dang, it felt sporty as hell. my shifts were weird, i would press in the clutch after lifting off the gas, and the tach would go up about 200 rpm, it made my shifts very sporty. i also noticed that my rpms wouldn't drop off nearly as quick as they did stock. but rather, they would drop to about 2000 rpm, till i got to about 10mph, then lower to about 1200 rpm. i didn't like this, because i'm sure it'll burn my clutch good to have to rev up when i press in the clutch, over time. plus, my gas mileage will die if i kept it like this.
so, i tried again. i took some tape layers off and i think i found the perfect spot. my rpms are just like stock at idle now, which is about 650-700 rpm. but my gas pedal is much more responsive. taking off it easier than before. downshifts are awesome now. before, when it was stock, i would have to press the pedal half way to get any response for a downshift and even then, it was about a half second delay before i could release the clutch. now, i have to retrain myself because i don't have to press the gas nearly as much, and the rpms jump alot quicker, so i have to learn to let the clutch out quicker.
did anyone think about taking out the stock stopper that the pedal has, and replacing it with an adjustable screw? i wanted to do that, but i couldn't find a screw short enough to allow me to bolt the pedal assembly back up.
i must have removed that assembly about 5 times today!
** i let the engine warm up fully before trying this. i recommend you do so also.
so, i took one of the rubber pieces off and tried that by itself. it didn't make much difference over stock.
then i came up with the idea to layer electrical tape over the rubber piece until i got the rpm and repsonse i wanted. i layered about half as much as a rubber piece and tried it. my rpms were at about 1000. i figured i'd give it a go around the neighborhood. dang, it felt sporty as hell. my shifts were weird, i would press in the clutch after lifting off the gas, and the tach would go up about 200 rpm, it made my shifts very sporty. i also noticed that my rpms wouldn't drop off nearly as quick as they did stock. but rather, they would drop to about 2000 rpm, till i got to about 10mph, then lower to about 1200 rpm. i didn't like this, because i'm sure it'll burn my clutch good to have to rev up when i press in the clutch, over time. plus, my gas mileage will die if i kept it like this.
so, i tried again. i took some tape layers off and i think i found the perfect spot. my rpms are just like stock at idle now, which is about 650-700 rpm. but my gas pedal is much more responsive. taking off it easier than before. downshifts are awesome now. before, when it was stock, i would have to press the pedal half way to get any response for a downshift and even then, it was about a half second delay before i could release the clutch. now, i have to retrain myself because i don't have to press the gas nearly as much, and the rpms jump alot quicker, so i have to learn to let the clutch out quicker.
did anyone think about taking out the stock stopper that the pedal has, and replacing it with an adjustable screw? i wanted to do that, but i couldn't find a screw short enough to allow me to bolt the pedal assembly back up.
i must have removed that assembly about 5 times today!
#60
great mod i think i'm going to do it tomorrow. i've only had my tc for 300 miles now and i could also tell that it wasn't a delay in the throttle, it's just slack in the pedal. i think scion should still come up with there own fix for this though, because it makes shifting akward especially with the a/c on. people with an auto shouldn't even bother with this because the don't have to worry about rev matching.