Is National Tire & Battery (NTB) a Good Place To Replace Car Battery?
03-01-2010, 11:11 PM
#1
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Is National Tire & Battery (NTB) a Good Place To Replace Car Battery?
I think my battery is dying on my 2005 TC. I've been looking on the internet. Is it easy to install myself or should I go to NTB? I don't want to get ripped off. Not sure how it works if I go to Autozone or something. Do I just buy it and install it myself?
03-01-2010, 11:13 PM
#2
Battery would be absolute cake to install yourself. All you need is a 10mm socket or wrench (possibly a deep socket for the battery tie down).
Be warned that once you disconnect it and install the new one, you'll have to do a few things. Specifically when you start the car the first time, you'll want to let it idle for about 15 min for the ECU to relearn the intake/fuel. Also you'll have to reset both windows and the sunroof.
Be warned that once you disconnect it and install the new one, you'll have to do a few things. Specifically when you start the car the first time, you'll want to let it idle for about 15 min for the ECU to relearn the intake/fuel. Also you'll have to reset both windows and the sunroof.
03-01-2010, 11:23 PM
#3
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Battery would be absolute cake to install yourself. All you need is a 10mm socket or wrench (possibly a deep socket for the battery tie down).
Be warned that once you disconnect it and install the new one, you'll have to do a few things. Specifically when you start the car the first time, you'll want to let it idle for about 15 min for the ECU to relearn the intake/fuel. Also you'll have to reset both windows and the sunroof.
Be warned that once you disconnect it and install the new one, you'll have to do a few things. Specifically when you start the car the first time, you'll want to let it idle for about 15 min for the ECU to relearn the intake/fuel. Also you'll have to reset both windows and the sunroof.
03-01-2010, 11:26 PM
#4
I still have my OEM battery and it has been fine (so far) but I expect to have to replace it maybe this year.
No place you get it from will do anything "special" to the battery and it should be fully charged when you install it. Personally I'd probably go buy another OEM battery form the dealer - if only b/c this one has been awesome for the last 5 years without a single issue.
No place you get it from will do anything "special" to the battery and it should be fully charged when you install it. Personally I'd probably go buy another OEM battery form the dealer - if only b/c this one has been awesome for the last 5 years without a single issue.
03-01-2010, 11:31 PM
#6
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I just walk into the dealer and buy the battery there? I'm trying to avoid hassles and getting screwed by shady companies that shouldn't exist like Jiffy Lube and NTB. However, last time I went to the dealer I got charged like $380 for a free recall LOL.
Yeah the OEM battery was awesome though. My old car had to get battery replaced every 2 years LOL.
If I can't make it to a dealer, is Autozone safe to use? I got an air filter there a couple of years ago and have since been doing them myself.
Yeah the OEM battery was awesome though. My old car had to get battery replaced every 2 years LOL.
If I can't make it to a dealer, is Autozone safe to use? I got an air filter there a couple of years ago and have since been doing them myself.
03-01-2010, 11:35 PM
#7
Any other battery should be fine (that I know of). You could get something like an Optima or something if you want something "high end" ... but it is probably debatable if they're really that good.
But yes, you should be able to just go to the dealer and get a battery. I would suggest calling first to see if they have any in stock or if they have to order though. No sense in going down there if they have to place an order first.
But yes, you should be able to just go to the dealer and get a battery. I would suggest calling first to see if they have any in stock or if they have to order though. No sense in going down there if they have to place an order first.
03-01-2010, 11:38 PM
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Any other battery should be fine (that I know of). You could get something like an Optima or something if you want something "high end" ... but it is probably debatable if they're really that good.
But yes, you should be able to just go to the dealer and get a battery. I would suggest calling first to see if they have any in stock or if they have to order though. No sense in going down there if they have to place an order first.
But yes, you should be able to just go to the dealer and get a battery. I would suggest calling first to see if they have any in stock or if they have to order though. No sense in going down there if they have to place an order first.
03-02-2010, 03:39 AM
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To let you know all batteries that you can get your hands on are made by 3 different companies. So most likely if you buy one from sears and one from the dealer they will be made by the same company. Don't worry about which battery you buy as long as it has enough cca for your car and a warranty.
03-02-2010, 08:17 AM
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Awesome thanks for help. I saw on youtube that even girls were installing batteries. So that did it for me. Also I doubt NTB or anyone else cares about my car as much as me. I see how they throw around air filters at Jiffy Lube. No wonder it looks like trash after a few visits LOL. Wish I had access to a jack. I'd be adding parts all the time like in HS.
For starters there are a couple of major manufacturers of batteries, I know of two big ones.
1- Johnson Controls makes - Autozone (duralast), Honda, Toyota, Ford, mazda, energizer, kirkland (costco)
2- Exide
I wouldn't waste my time with Exide. Consumer Reports tested car batteries and Exide always came up lacking. The Johnson Controls batteries were always rated at the top of the tests. Cranking amperage and long life were some of the criteria.
Our tC battery is a BCI Group 24 battery, this is what we use in the US it's not the same as the factory number from Japan, they use a different system.
Also, when you go to get a battery what you're talking about them messing with it is known as a load test. A load test is putting an electrical drain (load) onto the battery and measuring what the battery's voltage drops to when loaded up with a certain amperage. That is a good test to see if the battery's cells can deliver when under load. On a normal 12v car battery it should test out at 12.6-12.99 volts when no load is present. Under load I wouldn't want to see anything lower than 11.0volts. I wouldn't load test the battery when it's hooked up to the electrical system, I would do that with the battery on its own. Why? I don't care for them to by chance, fry my electrical system if something went wrong.
If the battery doesn't measure up to what I just mentioned then it's not worth your time. Some batteries are bad even brand new, testing it out is always good to do when buying a new one.
Personally I've been researching this and Autozone Duralast (Johnson Controls) batteries have a nice mix of CCA (cold cranking amps) close to the stock battery and reserve capacity. CCA is what actually turns the starter over to start the car at ZERO degrees outside. Reserve Capacity is when the alternator goes out how long the battery would run the car. Model number over at Autozone is 24-DL $80.
specs :
BCI Group: 24
CCA (at 0 deg F): 600 A
Cranking Amps (at 32deg F): 750 A
Reserve Capacity: 110
Factory Battery (Panasonic, not what you get from dealer)
CCA : 580 A
Reserve Capactiy: 133minutes
From what I heard Autozone had so many returns on batteries, they dumped Exide and went with Johnson Controls. Same place that makes Toyota's dealer battery.
Also when you go to buy a battery make SURE you find out what the date is on the battery. When it was manufactured. I wouldn't buy one that is more than 2 months old. It will have a sticker like 2/10 on it to say it was made in Feb, 2010.
Hope that helps you understand more of what's going on. Yes you can put one in, that's the easiest part, it's selecting a good battery, making sure it did well on it's load test, then drop it in and enjoy
Last edited by sciontc_mich; 03-02-2010 at 08:26 AM.
03-02-2010, 01:32 PM
#11
Dude you have a Toyota Scion, you can do EVERYTHING yourself.
Speaking of AutoZone, I recently bought a battery from there. The one with the High CCA. Seems fine so far; and that was months ago. They have great warranties, the more expensive the battery, the longer warranty. No regrets as of yet!
AutoZone also has a great selection of tools, they got me out of the hole when Advance Auto and NAPA could not provide...
Speaking of AutoZone, I recently bought a battery from there. The one with the High CCA. Seems fine so far; and that was months ago. They have great warranties, the more expensive the battery, the longer warranty. No regrets as of yet!
AutoZone also has a great selection of tools, they got me out of the hole when Advance Auto and NAPA could not provide...
03-02-2010, 02:17 PM
#12
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I'll help you out with what i know too.
For starters there are a couple of major manufacturers of batteries, I know of two big ones.
1- Johnson Controls makes - Autozone (duralast), Honda, Toyota, Ford, mazda, energizer, kirkland (costco)
2- Exide
I wouldn't waste my time with Exide. Consumer Reports tested car batteries and Exide always came up lacking. The Johnson Controls batteries were always rated at the top of the tests. Cranking amperage and long life were some of the criteria.
Our tC battery is a BCI Group 24 battery, this is what we use in the US it's not the same as the factory number from Japan, they use a different system.
Also, when you go to get a battery what you're talking about them messing with it is known as a load test. A load test is putting an electrical drain (load) onto the battery and measuring what the battery's voltage drops to when loaded up with a certain amperage. That is a good test to see if the battery's cells can deliver when under load. On a normal 12v car battery it should test out at 12.6-12.99 volts when no load is present. Under load I wouldn't want to see anything lower than 11.0volts. I wouldn't load test the battery when it's hooked up to the electrical system, I would do that with the battery on its own. Why? I don't care for them to by chance, fry my electrical system if something went wrong.
If the battery doesn't measure up to what I just mentioned then it's not worth your time. Some batteries are bad even brand new, testing it out is always good to do when buying a new one.
Personally I've been researching this and Autozone Duralast (Johnson Controls) batteries have a nice mix of CCA (cold cranking amps) close to the stock battery and reserve capacity. CCA is what actually turns the starter over to start the car at ZERO degrees outside. Reserve Capacity is when the alternator goes out how long the battery would run the car. Model number over at Autozone is 24-DL $80.
specs :
BCI Group: 24
CCA (at 0 deg F): 600 A
Cranking Amps (at 32deg F): 750 A
Reserve Capacity: 110
Factory Battery (Panasonic, not what you get from dealer)
CCA : 580 A
Reserve Capactiy: 133minutes
From what I heard Autozone had so many returns on batteries, they dumped Exide and went with Johnson Controls. Same place that makes Toyota's dealer battery.
Also when you go to buy a battery make SURE you find out what the date is on the battery. When it was manufactured. I wouldn't buy one that is more than 2 months old. It will have a sticker like 2/10 on it to say it was made in Feb, 2010.
Hope that helps you understand more of what's going on. Yes you can put one in, that's the easiest part, it's selecting a good battery, making sure it did well on it's load test, then drop it in and enjoy
For starters there are a couple of major manufacturers of batteries, I know of two big ones.
1- Johnson Controls makes - Autozone (duralast), Honda, Toyota, Ford, mazda, energizer, kirkland (costco)
2- Exide
I wouldn't waste my time with Exide. Consumer Reports tested car batteries and Exide always came up lacking. The Johnson Controls batteries were always rated at the top of the tests. Cranking amperage and long life were some of the criteria.
Our tC battery is a BCI Group 24 battery, this is what we use in the US it's not the same as the factory number from Japan, they use a different system.
Also, when you go to get a battery what you're talking about them messing with it is known as a load test. A load test is putting an electrical drain (load) onto the battery and measuring what the battery's voltage drops to when loaded up with a certain amperage. That is a good test to see if the battery's cells can deliver when under load. On a normal 12v car battery it should test out at 12.6-12.99 volts when no load is present. Under load I wouldn't want to see anything lower than 11.0volts. I wouldn't load test the battery when it's hooked up to the electrical system, I would do that with the battery on its own. Why? I don't care for them to by chance, fry my electrical system if something went wrong.
If the battery doesn't measure up to what I just mentioned then it's not worth your time. Some batteries are bad even brand new, testing it out is always good to do when buying a new one.
Personally I've been researching this and Autozone Duralast (Johnson Controls) batteries have a nice mix of CCA (cold cranking amps) close to the stock battery and reserve capacity. CCA is what actually turns the starter over to start the car at ZERO degrees outside. Reserve Capacity is when the alternator goes out how long the battery would run the car. Model number over at Autozone is 24-DL $80.
specs :
BCI Group: 24
CCA (at 0 deg F): 600 A
Cranking Amps (at 32deg F): 750 A
Reserve Capacity: 110
Factory Battery (Panasonic, not what you get from dealer)
CCA : 580 A
Reserve Capactiy: 133minutes
From what I heard Autozone had so many returns on batteries, they dumped Exide and went with Johnson Controls. Same place that makes Toyota's dealer battery.
Also when you go to buy a battery make SURE you find out what the date is on the battery. When it was manufactured. I wouldn't buy one that is more than 2 months old. It will have a sticker like 2/10 on it to say it was made in Feb, 2010.
Hope that helps you understand more of what's going on. Yes you can put one in, that's the easiest part, it's selecting a good battery, making sure it did well on it's load test, then drop it in and enjoy
03-02-2010, 02:19 PM
#13
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yeah, i'm very happy with my OEM battery, been over 5 years and it hasn't left me dry once. i had it tested last year durring an oil change, they said it was still fine. i'll test it again this year, because i'd rather replace it on my terms than on its terms.
so while your battery might be perfectly fine, it never hurts to take the time to get it simply tested and replace it now at your convenience than later, and probably at a bad time while enducing a severe headache.
so while your battery might be perfectly fine, it never hurts to take the time to get it simply tested and replace it now at your convenience than later, and probably at a bad time while enducing a severe headache.
03-02-2010, 02:20 PM
#14
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yeah, i'm very happy with my OEM battery, been over 5 years and it hasn't left me dry once. i had it tested last year durring an oil change, they said it was still fine. i'll test it again this year, because i'd rather replace it on my terms than on its terms.
so while your battery might be perfectly fine, it never hurts to take the time to get it simply tested and replace it now at your convenience than later, and probably at a bad time while enducing a severe headache.
so while your battery might be perfectly fine, it never hurts to take the time to get it simply tested and replace it now at your convenience than later, and probably at a bad time while enducing a severe headache.
03-02-2010, 02:27 PM
#15
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Yes, you either can take it out and walk in or you can drive there and they come to your car & test.
I'm running 171,xxx miles & I STILL haven't changed my OEM. I'm usually sitting back at work in the car blasting the radio on the battery; only in Spring & Summer. It STILL doesn't want to die.
I'll probably change out once I get more into audio.
03-03-2010, 12:48 AM
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yes they'll test it for you. for free. I would remove the positive and negative (ground) cables from the battery, then they can test it right in your car. I wouldn't let them do it with the cables attached, never know what surge or weird stuff their testing equipment could do. fry a battery is cheaper than frying your electrical system.
but yeah watch the tester, most autozone people I know don't understand the voltages that it's showing when it's testing a battery. they just know if it says "pass". Look at the display first amount you'll see a large voltage drop (from 12v), if it's lower than 11.0volts like 10.1 or 9.5 then yeah the battery is bad. the voltages shown in the test after that are lighter loads on the battery, you'll see the voltages show higher.
and no problem about helping ya out, figured you'd like to know all of what it's about. glad to help!
but yeah watch the tester, most autozone people I know don't understand the voltages that it's showing when it's testing a battery. they just know if it says "pass". Look at the display first amount you'll see a large voltage drop (from 12v), if it's lower than 11.0volts like 10.1 or 9.5 then yeah the battery is bad. the voltages shown in the test after that are lighter loads on the battery, you'll see the voltages show higher.
and no problem about helping ya out, figured you'd like to know all of what it's about. glad to help!
Last edited by sciontc_mich; 03-03-2010 at 12:59 AM.
03-03-2010, 12:52 AM
#17
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yes they'll test it for you. I would remove the positive and negative (ground) cables from the battery, then they can test it right in your car. I wouldn't let them do it with the cables attached, never know what surge or weird stuff their testing equipment could do. fry a battery is cheaper than frying your electrical system.
but yeah watch the tester, most autozone people I know don't understand the voltages that it's showing when it's testing a battery. they just know if it says "pass". Look at the display first amount you'll see a large voltage drop (from 12v), if it's lower than 11.0volts like 10.1 or 9.5 then yeah the battery is bad. the voltages shown in the test after that are lighter loads on the battery, you'll see the voltages show higher.
and no problem about helping ya out, figured you'd like to know all of what it's about. glad to help!
but yeah watch the tester, most autozone people I know don't understand the voltages that it's showing when it's testing a battery. they just know if it says "pass". Look at the display first amount you'll see a large voltage drop (from 12v), if it's lower than 11.0volts like 10.1 or 9.5 then yeah the battery is bad. the voltages shown in the test after that are lighter loads on the battery, you'll see the voltages show higher.
and no problem about helping ya out, figured you'd like to know all of what it's about. glad to help!
03-03-2010, 02:52 AM
#18
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and yeah a lot of this stuff you can fix on your own for nothing more than the parts, a service manual, and your time. glad to help ya out. Yeah the tC is one of the easiest cars I've ever worked on. It was almost (Seems like) designed for a backyard mechanic to work on it.
glad that stuff helps that I and everyone else mentioned.
hey let us know what happens when you get your current stock battery tested. be nice to know the numbers the machine shows as it tests it out.
03-03-2010, 07:06 AM
#20
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Yes that's right, the Toyota dealer battery called TruStart is 575 CCA, where our factory Panasonic is 582 CCA.
Also, Johnson Controls makes Toyota's USA battery that is at the dealer. Autozone's battery is also made by Johnson Controls just like the dealer's, well it's actually better at 600CCA. I'm all for good parts but I can't see spending more money at the dealer and get a battery that has less performance than the original factory battery. And yes the Autozone battery has a reserve of 110 minutes versus 130 for the dealer battery and 133minutes for the Panasonic factory one. I'd rather take a little more CCA. I think 110 minutes of reserve time is way more than enough if the alternator were to fail. My thinking is, the cold cranking amps have to be equal or better than the factory battery, NOT less.