melna8

Is it true that the 08+ motors got oil squirter's? I read it on a post somewhere.

Also how is the clutch engagement and feel on the tC, anything like driving the 5 speed scion xB as far as just the clutch?

Is there any specific you guys recommend looking at when checking some of them out? Besides looking for leaks or broken things?

Thanks again

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

That is most definitely NOT supercharged. As for buying a refurbished salvage vehicle, it's a very very touchy subject. If you plan on daily driving the car for a long time, my advice is to look elsewhere. There are many issues that will not pop up on the test drive but after purchase will haunt you. Your resale is going to be terrible if not impossible also. If you want the car for cone course racing or drag, then by all means, save the money and buy a refurbished salvage title car. Some cars like this can be great but most are not. Two possible problems I can see already is the bolt that is missing on the passenger side headlight mounting bracket and the rear of the car sits way higher than factory. If you do test drive it, drive it like you own it and have someone follow you to make sure the car tracks straight and isn't "crabbing" as you drive. Take it up to at least 80 mph and drive for a minimum of 30 minutes or 30 miles. This ensures that any engine light problems will show themselves before you buy it. Also make sure all the idiot lights actually come on when you put the key in the ignition before starting it. Some people will take out the engine light by taking off the dash and pulling the LED or bulb. Check all gaps to ensure quality body work and open and close everything twice to check for squeaks, rattles, or pops. Wiggle things that aren't supposed to wiggle and flip every switch. Good luck on your venture!

draxcaliber

the 07 and up engine have oil squirters and revised water jackets.

but with that salvage title trd car, there is nothing trd about that car aside from the sticker in the window, and the strut tower brace (which does nothing)

the car has no warranty, so if it wasn't fixed well, then you are SOL.

again, insuring a salvage title car is hard, see how hard it would be to insure that car if you can get it done at all.

what year xb did you drive? first gen or second gen?

i personally have no problem with the tc's manual transmission, but people complain all the time about the drive by wire system, and the heavy flywheel making the throttle response slow, and engagement from a stop to be jerky.

the first gen xb is no comparision to the tc's drivetrain, different engine, clutch, tranny power curve, vable throttle body versus drive by wire throttle.

the second gen xb is nearly identical to the tc, cept it has traction control. so if you like the 2nd gen xb, then you'll be happy with the tc.

melna8

Thanks for the information guys, glad to know that car is a no go. I just wanna avoid problems seen how it's not like I'm spending 2,000-3,000. I have been looking for a reasonable priced car for the past 5 months.

What exactly does this mean " refurbished salvage title car"? How can I confirm if it is a refurbished salvage title car? also what's "crabbing"?

How does warranty work as far as buying for a private party? if the miles are still in the warranty specs is it still covered or is there something special that has to be done?

I drove a 2005 xB, I loved the pedal feel as far as how short it was it felt like my roadster. it engaged really quick. it didn't feel like my old Integra GSR where it was really high.

As far as the "drive by wire system" what exact complaints are there?

BZinn1

crabbing in cars means the wheels do not line up anymore and really never will,car in bad accident and all the suspension parts are twisted up and not straight.......


stay away from salvage cars......unless you can get a running car for under $2000.....the amount of work you are going to put into it and money in toit to make it drive again is more than a new or used car.

draxcaliber

i'm guessing a refurbished salvage title means the car has been repaired to the point that it can pass inspection and be legally driven on the highway, and registered for ownership and such again. but i do not know what crabbing is exactly. but again, the value of a salvaged car, even repaired, is low and hard to insure.

as far as the warranty goes, the factory warranty is transferable and still in effect from the date when the car was sold as new. and if they purchased extended warranty, those are usually transferable.

the complaints about the drive by wire system is there is a slight delay between pressing the gas pedal, and the thottle responding to your input. this is largely to the heavy flywheel we have (20 pounds) so people complain that the car slow to respond to throttle input, which frankly i never noticed. you just have to get the timing right with your feet.

as for clutch take up, i find it to be easy to feel where it starts to engage very easily. the engagement point is about halfway through the pedal travel. i never had a problem with it. you just give the car alittle gas, start letting in the clutch, and once you feel it start to engage, give it alittle more gas and let the pedal all the way out. it is entirely second nature, so much so i find it difficult for me to stall my car even.

but clutch engagement can be adjusted if you want faster or slower engagement.

omgu8myrice

shifting smoothly can sometimes be a pain in the but though.. at least compared to other cars

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

Crabbing is your rear wheels not following the exact path of your front wheels as you drive in a straight line. This will lead to premature failure of just about every suspension component, joint, bushing, and bearing. In simple terms, the car is out of whack.

melna8

Now i remember a good way to test it would be driving over water slowly and see if it leaves two solid lines perfectly or lines that look out of wack/non straight?

As far as adjusting the clutch engagement would that be safely and easily done with the master cylinder rod?

As much as i want to stay away from a salvage title the price and mileage difference is big, don't you guys think?

How are the automatic transmissions on the tC? I did some search and found some people complaining about harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

If you ever had power in mind, the auto tranny is the suck unless you want to put lots of money into it. I personally hate automatics on 4 bangers (not counting DSG's). It ruins everything about spirited driving and feeling connected to the car and road in my opinion, but hey, different strokes for different folks.

draxcaliber

look, stay away from the salvaged title tc. seriously. that car was damaged so badly that it was written off as a total loss. so somebody bought the remains of the car at auction with the plans of fixing it and turning it around for a profit, so what do you think they did? they went diving through junkyards picking off parts from other wrecked toyotas with similar mechanical components and other wrecked tc's paying for used parts that who knows how long they'll last so long as they work for now.

then they fixed whatever body damage there was, and who knows how well the car was repainted or properly primed or sealed. the car could go to pieces on you in no time and you are SOL.

whatever potential savings you reap from that purchase, you might spend it in repairs or fixes should it not be working properly. a salvage title is a salvage title is a salvage title. that is why the title with the clear title costs more.

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

Good luck getting an extended warranty or the dealer to cover ANY costs for repairs should something go wrong.

melna8

Yeah I don't think I'll be doing any events anytime soon for sure cause I'll be to focused on school and work. The only mods I really plan on doing if I do go though with it is springs,shorty antenna and maybe a new front grill. that's about it besides better tires when the times comes along with better pads. but I don't want to get too deep into it since adding small mods really doesn't make a huge difference I either am going big or not at all.

Do you guys recommend any web sites I could check out as far as dealers or finding a car?

Yeah I was trying to avoid the sale taxes but maybe I should start looking into reasonable dealer offers, as far as warranty goes would be best deal be at a scion dealer or any dealer
with a clean title tC?

melna8

Below is a picture to another tC I'm considering it's clean title with a little less than 60k, white, 5 speed, only mods I can see are a touch screen dvd player witch I would want to remove and sell since It's not really my thing, they want under 10k what do you guys think? It has the (!) light on witch means maintence? low tire pressue?

draxcaliber

a clean title means just that, the car is fully owned and payed for, it wasn't a salvage title, it isn't still be financed by the current owner. etc.

yes the (!) is the low tire pressure light. there is a mait. req. light, but it doesn't actually detect anything, it is just a timer to remind you to change the oil and such.

as for car dealer websites, try using the internet. start at carmax, then go to toyota and find dealerships in your area. then there is vehix, cars.com, ebay, craigslist etc.

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

Whatever vehicle you end up with, make sure to get a Carfax report before you buy. Does the car with the (!) light have aftermarket wheels? Have the factory tires been replaced? If so, they might not have reinstalled the sensor or broken one of them if it is 07+. 06 and below use the ABS sensor speed instead. Check your tire pressure if this is the case

melna8

It shows stock rims and I'm not sure if the tires are stock but they look "there age" so maybe there original. looks like 215/45/17. I replied to the seller about the maintenance records but never got a response so maybe that's a sighs for it having no records but oil changes. I'm still looking around. How many miles would you guys say is just too much and not worth buying anything above 40-50k? what sensor ? on the tires? or rims?

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

The sensor on 07+ is attached to the valve-stem and thus would be installed onto the rim when putting the tire on. If the tires were replaced, then the sensors may have been damaged during this process causing the light to turn on. My light came on when the psi in my tires hit 26 psi. Check the pressure if this is the case. The 06 and below years won't have this issue.

melna8

wow that sucks, It's not my car so it's ok but it's good to know how everything works if I end up getting a tC soon and run into that little light.

Mouse

yeah man... that light is just the TPS (Tire Pressure System) Could simply be a low pressure in a tire.
And as others have said in here about staying away from a salvage title vehicle is sound advice. Even if you think it drives great.... try and turn around and sell or trade in a vehicle with a salvage title.... you will get screwed there...AND if it was messed up enough to be totaled in the first place... yeah...things/parts are going to not wear correctly. just a fact.