I just came back from an Overseas Deployment.

Upon returning my 2006 Scion would not start (VIN: JTKDE177360063705, 2.4L, Man-Trans). Supposed the Battery was dead, or discharged.

It was nightfall. 'Mechanically Inclined' friend helped me to slave it off with his Ford Explorer.

Friend did not use headlights of Explorer to ensure that Jumper Cables were correctly hooked up. In fact, they were reversed.

Explorer was running. When ‘friend’ hooked up to the Scion, Positive Terminal and Cable smoked and turned red hot. Was still very hot by the time I got to the front of Vehicle.

Now vehicle will not start at all. Dash lights come on. Headlamps come one. Everything seems to work fine with the exception of the Vehicle will not start. You can’t even hear the starter ‘click’.

Though I did work on old Hot Rods when I was young, I do not consider myself very mechanically inclined. However, I did a little checking on it the next day after I had cooled down some. ‘Friend’ loaned me a cheap Multi-Meter and Test Light. This is what I have found:

1) All Fuses (large, mini, and spade) in Engine Compartment Power Center are good.

2) Starter Relay has no Power to any of its 4 Terminals.

3) There is Continuity and Voltage between Battery and Starter.

4) There is no Continuity OR Voltage between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Positive side of Battery.

5) There is no Continuity between Alternator Batt. Terminal and Starter.

However, the Strangest Thing is this: On a whim I set the Multi-Meter to DC Volts and connected the Positive lead to the Positive side of Battery and the Negative lead to the Alternator Batt. Terminal AND it had over 12.00 Volts. This seems especially out of the ordinary to me.


I do not have the extra money for a Tow Fee or extra Shop Labor, and I have to get this thing to a Shop so that I can have the Clutch and Pressure Plate replaced. Now it seems that I have incurred additional financial woes.

Can anyone help?

 

Sounds like your battery was drained when you came back, then you fried the starter- any autoparts store will sell for a $100 or so with the return of your old one. Takes about 2 -3 hours to replace. Refer to the Repair Manual.

 

I thought so. Any way of being sure by doing some sort of 'Bench Test' on it before I order the part . . . just to be sure?

 

I think it's pretty clear, no need for a test. Don't order it online, get it from your local autoparts store, replace it, if that's not the issue return it, but I'm pretty sure it is the starter

 

We'll do. Thanks a lot.

 

before buying a new starter change the battery see if that can be the case even tho it reads 12 volts it can be the battery

 

Last thing you want to do is buy a part you dont need. So before you even do that, yank the battery and take it to your local auto parts store. Even though a battery can read 12 volts, if the amps arent there, nothing is starting. The starter wont even turn over. Your lights are still coming on inside your car because the voltage from the battery is still there, but the amperage is gone.

I know kragen and autozone do free battery testing and charging. If the battery is fine and it can be charged, do that. Takes about 30 minutes. Throw the battery back in and see if it starts. If not, then yank the starter and get that tested as well.

But if it happens to NOT be the starter at all, you just saved yourself $100 by getting a free battery charge.

A major problem when it comes to car problems, is that people automatically assume somethings "done" and start yanking all kinds of crap out of there car, when that "done" part might not have even been the culprit. I like to use the "trickle" method. Meaning start at the most obvious part of the problem, test the parts in question, and thatll give you a better understanding of whats really going on. Ive saved myself a lot of money of the years by doing so.

 

Becareful, my buddy did this and smoked his alternator.

 

Did what exactly...

 

Tried to jumpstart his car and switched the negative & positive leads?!

 

have you Checked you MAIN fusible link. and your 120Amp Alt fuse. make sure the fusible link is not burned through( white wire i believe ).

This happened to me while installing a new battery, i crossed the terminals on accident. i replaced the 120Amp Alternator fuse and it started.

 

Check all your connections for corrosion as well, since the car has just been sitting. I pulled and replaced a starter before (on my wifes old car) when it turned out the ground wasnt bolted down on both ends properly. Now I always check the little/easy things first.

 

keep us posted, I wanna see if I was right

 

Could anyone tell me how to replace the alternator fusible link? I tried replacing the battery in my 06 tc but accidentally crossed the positive and negative terminals which in turn blew the fuse. I already removed one screw holding the fuse in place but still unable to remove the fuse, is there anything else keeping it in place?