I installed my racelands and got an alignment at my buddys shop and the camber is effed! Im having camber issues with the front. I bought some camber bolts from napa and got the pass. side on the money at -0.7 but the driver side wont come past -1.7! The ride height is exactly the same on both sides at 23" from the top of the fender to the ground and i cant seem to figure out why the driver side wont come back in anymore. I plan on buying the progress kit, it comes with front and rear! If anyone could shed some light on this I would be extremely grateful! I dont know that much about alignments and i dont know if it has any bearing but my tires are shot too! Also, would it be a bad idea to use 2 camber bolts? My buddy told me not to but i dont know why? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance

 

I used 2 ingalls camber bolts on each side of mine. They are designed to be like eccentrics, so you can dial in camber. Does your friend know how to adjust camber bolts? They take some time but can be dialed in to whatever your wanting really. With -0.7* being what you want, you could practically have that without camber bolts, that was about where mine was without camber bolts. Now I am about -2.25* on each side. Are you wanting to change rear camber as well? What do you mean progress front and rear? (In my opinion the factory rear eccentric camber arm has plenty of adjustment in it, I could easily be @ -3* or less than -1* of camber if I wanted).

Tires being shot doesn't really matter when getting an alignment, as long as they are equally shot side to side

Hope this helps

 

yea my buddy knows how camber bolts work as do i(hes been doing it for over 25 years). but what we cant figure out is why there is so much of a difference between sides and i wanted to know about using 2 bolts. as for the rear, its fine for now but progress makes a kit that has adjustable rear control arms and the eccentric bolts for the front. but anyway, you have helped sir! i just really wanna know why theres so much of a difference between the 2 sides. thanks man

 

try loosening the strut tower bolts and pulling outward (sideways) on the drivers side with a prybar then re-tighten. it should help a lil bit.

 

well from what I have experienced there is a little slop even with the factory bolts. If you can't bring the one side more positive, then just bring the other side more negative. How is your SAI? IA? Those will tell whether or not you have a bent suspension component. Also you could try installing the factory bolts back in and see if the cross camber is still way off. If not, then it has something to do with your camber bolts, maybe one being slightly bent.

 

What is SAI and IA? Like i said i dont know that much about alignment.

 

SAI = steering axis inclination.
IA = included angle.

Google for more information on them as it would be hard for me to describe

 

You can run -1.7 up front with no ill effects.. and it will handle a lot better that way.

I have been running -1.75 up front for 2 years now. Since I have camber plates, I crank em to about -2.75 for autox events, but then go back to -1.75 on the street after.

I am not a fan of camber bolts, but used them before I got my ss-ps with the plates. I personally would only use one per side if you can help it. They are weaker than stock bolts and are not a uniform thickness. Not saying they WILL break for sure, but I try to minimize running smaller bolts as much as possible. I have also heard of people having issues with the cam bolts slipping, thus changing alignment. I never had the issue during the year I ran the ingalls. Alignment guys also hate cam bolts They would rather use crash bolts (smaller diameter bolts from Toyota) since they are easier to adjust with. No dealing with turning different parts to get it right.