Strut bars are all about rigidity and keeping struts in proper alignment. So yes itstdt i'd have to say based on design the DC front bar should be the most effective.(although i'm not an engineeer) Still ugly tho

The MMW looks like it bolts to the floor pan. Does not "look" like it would show much improvement. But then again niether does a front bar considering the towers are attached to the firewall. Its because of this that I have been and am still skeptical of the gains from these parts.

 

The rear one really is bolting to the strut tower bolts. There are two right there, that it uses, and then one other strut tower bolt on the other side that you can't see.

 

but do you really need 3 or 4 bars on the car? I mean... front and rear struts, front and rear sways? Would those combined be too much rigidity? I am still having dilemma whether I should go DC or TRD or Hotchkis strut, but I am pretty sure I will get Progress Rear sway bar... Any opinions?

 

Ack and I are setting up for autox. Can there car be made too stiff? I don't know i'm just trying to get set up well-I have zero autox experience. Ack on the other hand raced last season virtually stock.

As for the right parts for you. What you want the car to do should dictate the parts. There's really no point in setting up to pull .91G if you never intend to go past .85G. The best advice I can give you is that aside from the tires the rear sway bar is the weakest link in the tc's carving ability.

 

^^ Ditto. Unless you're doing some sort of racing or are a VERY aggressive driver, decent tires and a rear sway should set the car up nicely. If you want something nice looking under the hood, get a front strut bar. If you want to lower your car and give it an aggressive stance with a stiffer ride, get springs/coilovers.

 

i am still waiting for the mmw front strut bar... it was supposally coming out how long ago?

 

umm... for nice looking under the hood, i think Hotchkis strut looks the best... but I am not sure if I'd set up the car for autox now since I am a daily driver... but I am sure I want a nice looking car from inside to outside

 

In looking at the TC's design, I'd guess the glass roof does make the more prone to flexing.

Ingalls Engineering as an interesting looking rear shock bracke that looks like it has 4 attachment points. Has anyone tried this yet?

 

^^bump cuz I wanna know

 

You can see it here:
http://www.ingallseng.com/Featured.htm

But I don't think anyone even has it yet. Couldn't find much in search except "it's not out yet."

 

i got a question,so is it smarter to invest in sway bars or strut bars. i don't care for looks at all, jus better handling. i don;t wanna get strut and sways, jus strut or sways.

 

Handling: Sway Bars first. At the very least rear. Most people have noticed a significant change just by installing a rear bar. The front is up to you. And so far, Hotchkis is the only one making a front bar. Those "suspension techniques" people look like they're going to make one, but no one's sure if it's available.

I'd say Hotchkis over them first anyways if you want a front bar.

If you just want rear, even the TRD or Progress bars would probably make a nice difference.

 

I with ack all the way on this. If your looking for some improvement on a daily driver tires and a rear sway should be enough to satisfy. With just this setup and a manual I can take virtually any curve at double the posted speed. If your wanting to make your car look good-go with the best looking strut bar. Greddy blue/silver best lookin IMO.

If your setting up for competition:
Hotchkis Sways
DC Front Strut (some prefer Hotchkis but its not a one piece)
Ingalls Rear Strut (AWESOME find ep1474)

For coilovers: It looks like Buddy Club is producing some killer coilovers for the tc. There not listed on the BC site yet but BC sales rep said they are on the way.

 

link for the rear strut???

 

I just installed my hotchkis rear sway bar a couple days ago and there is definitely a difference. Much quicker and/or more accuracy in turning. I've had the trd strut installed for almost 3 weeks now and I dind't notice much difference, but I kept it because, from what I gathered, it supports the firewall mostly preventing wear and flex over time. I am installing my hotchkis front sway bar tomorrow. I'm sure the slight roll to the front will disappear from noticeability altogether. At about $330 for the both of em, I'd say it's reasonably priced.

 

WOW! I've broken two 14mm sockets trying to remove the last bolt on the engine pan. this is f'd up. the book says they should be torqued to 45 ft-lbs in the install section. I think factory exceeded that to say the least.

 

240 shipped for both TRD front and rear sway from mc george.......what kind of tools are you using that fail under 45lbs? WOW

 

Here's my TRD strut bar -- I want it to be blue:

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well, the first socket was an extended 14mm 12 point kobalt and the second was an extended 14mm 6 point craftsman. I don't really want to cut the bolt just so I can use a standard length 14mm socket, but I think aside from using an impact drill grade socket that's what I'd have to do. I used my standard length on the other 3 nuts and removed them with some muscle. Not sure why the bolts are different lengths though.

 

take that socket back to sears.....they will give you a new one, did you try some WD40 or anything to help break the bolt?