Axle, CV Joint, CV Boot Problem Thread
08-13-2009, 02:40 AM
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Axle, CV Joint, CV Boot Problem Thread
Decided to make a thread because this seems to be a universal problem for people with slammed tC's.
First off, if you have a tC that's tucking tire, it's a good idea to periodically check your CV boots on your axles for any problems. Lowering our cars changes the angle and stress on our axles which can make them wear out a lot faster.
I noticed small amounts of grease seeping from my passenger side axle while doing an oil change and after messing around with it I've concluded that because the angle of the CV joint changed when I lowered the car, the band holding the boot had bent slightly, allowing grease to seep out. This is a common problem for people who lift their vehicles as well.
The fix is to go to Lowes or Home Depot and get some piping bands, the metal bands you screw to tighten, and put those on the CV boots then tighten them to seal it.
I did this today and so far so good, but I don't know if it definitely fixed it. I'm going to check for leakage again tomorrow and if it's still leaking the only option I have is to wait and replace the axles, then continue to do so every time they inevitably break, or raise my car back up (not gonna happen
).
Anyone else have a similar problem or solution? Also, if anyone knows the best place to get quality axles, or even performance axles, please post the info!
User Drey has written up a nice DIY for replacing axle boots!
Thanks man!
First off, if you have a tC that's tucking tire, it's a good idea to periodically check your CV boots on your axles for any problems. Lowering our cars changes the angle and stress on our axles which can make them wear out a lot faster.
I noticed small amounts of grease seeping from my passenger side axle while doing an oil change and after messing around with it I've concluded that because the angle of the CV joint changed when I lowered the car, the band holding the boot had bent slightly, allowing grease to seep out. This is a common problem for people who lift their vehicles as well.
The fix is to go to Lowes or Home Depot and get some piping bands, the metal bands you screw to tighten, and put those on the CV boots then tighten them to seal it.
I did this today and so far so good, but I don't know if it definitely fixed it. I'm going to check for leakage again tomorrow and if it's still leaking the only option I have is to wait and replace the axles, then continue to do so every time they inevitably break, or raise my car back up (not gonna happen
).Anyone else have a similar problem or solution? Also, if anyone knows the best place to get quality axles, or even performance axles, please post the info!
User Drey has written up a nice DIY for replacing axle boots!
Last edited by iheartzombies; 06-27-2011 at 05:41 AM.
08-13-2009, 03:56 AM
#2
i noticed grease seeping out of my boots last summer, didnt really think much of it (stupid lazy move on my behalf) so i just kinda patched it up with black silicone lol (about 2-3 coats) and forgot about it, and about 3 months ago they started clicking (again didnt think about it cus i didnt have the $$ to replace axles) then monday BOOM and GRINDDDDDDDDDDDDD axles dead lol called the dealer to see how much they charged LOL they wanted 900 for parts and another 300 for install (ya i def dont have 1200 for axles) so i made a couple calls around and found rebuilt OEM axles (just as strong if not a little stronger then stock,.... from what they told me) for 300 (for both) and my buddy at meinekee told me he'd do the install for 200 which seemed like a good deal to me, plus the stock boots are kinda plastic(y) and can crack with severe temperature changes and my new axles have softer more flexible rubber boots which are less prone to cracking so that makes me happy haha.
but ya if your slammed keep an eye out on them.
btw i have to replace them now and i have 122k+ miles on my car and i've been lowered since 20k and slammed since 40k. just an FYI (longevity of the axles depends on driving habits and probably the roads you drive on, i baby the car and the roads arent HORRIBLE around here but they arent the best)
but ya if your slammed keep an eye out on them.
btw i have to replace them now and i have 122k+ miles on my car and i've been lowered since 20k and slammed since 40k. just an FYI (longevity of the axles depends on driving habits and probably the roads you drive on, i baby the car and the roads arent HORRIBLE around here but they arent the best)
08-13-2009, 04:05 AM
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That reminds me, here is a link to the partstrain axles. They are either brand new or rebuilt A1 Cardone axles for a really good price:
http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.php?VN=4294966825+4294964327+4294964326+4294967247&Nr=AND(universal:0)&N=0&Ntt=Axle%20Assembly
After shipping it's around $150 to your door. I don't know if the brand is good or not though.
There is also www.driveshaftshop.com which has some 1300 dollar axles. I've never heard of them either but for 1300 bucks I'd hope they last forever lol.
The last places I can think of are local Autozone, Advanced Auto, Oreilly, etc. I'm going to call tomorrow and get prices just to see what they are asking. I do know that axles from autozone come with a lifetime warranty, so if and when they break you can just bring them in and get replacements for free.
http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.php?VN=4294966825+4294964327+4294964326+4294967247&Nr=AND(universal:0)&N=0&Ntt=Axle%20Assembly
After shipping it's around $150 to your door. I don't know if the brand is good or not though.
There is also www.driveshaftshop.com which has some 1300 dollar axles. I've never heard of them either but for 1300 bucks I'd hope they last forever lol.
The last places I can think of are local Autozone, Advanced Auto, Oreilly, etc. I'm going to call tomorrow and get prices just to see what they are asking. I do know that axles from autozone come with a lifetime warranty, so if and when they break you can just bring them in and get replacements for free.
08-13-2009, 05:33 AM
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Well the telltale sign of a busted CV boot or joint is black axle grease slung up onto the undercarriage or wheelwells. Checking the axles are pretty easy, just jack the car up and get under there to look, or remove the wheel and look from the side.
If you turn and hear a clicking noise, then most likely your CV joint is gone and will need to be replaced.
Mainly you want to check for leaking grease. That means the boot is torn or if it was coming out the end like mine, the clamp got bent from being angled.
Now I'm pretty sure axles are also warrantied, so I may just throw on my stock shocks and springs then have the dealership take care of it...
Only thing is my dealer is in a city 50 miles away, and the car would have to be towed. Think they would cover all that?
Probably a good idea for me to change it myself though, I would really like to learn how so I can do it myself and do it very quickly. Anyone who has changed their own on the tC please speak up in detail! I know Yellowhoodie and tCPete have experience here.
If you turn and hear a clicking noise, then most likely your CV joint is gone and will need to be replaced.
Mainly you want to check for leaking grease. That means the boot is torn or if it was coming out the end like mine, the clamp got bent from being angled.
Now I'm pretty sure axles are also warrantied, so I may just throw on my stock shocks and springs then have the dealership take care of it...
Only thing is my dealer is in a city 50 miles away, and the car would have to be towed. Think they would cover all that?
Probably a good idea for me to change it myself though, I would really like to learn how so I can do it myself and do it very quickly. Anyone who has changed their own on the tC please speak up in detail! I know Yellowhoodie and tCPete have experience here.
08-13-2009, 09:36 PM
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Well I went ride today then checked the boot when I got home and no more leakage, the clamp seemed to work.
Went pick up some black adhesive silicone sealent made by the loctite people, gonna seal up the end for some added protection
Went pick up some black adhesive silicone sealent made by the loctite people, gonna seal up the end for some added protection
08-16-2009, 10:14 PM
#10
Yup I'm in on this one. My boot is leaking. I gotta get some clamps. I may have damage internally already though since it clinks and clunks when turning the wheel slowly. I most likely have to replace the axle soon.
I've been looking into getting a new 'car' anyways but I don't know if I can part ways with the tC. I've been looking at getting a new Tundra and getting away from 'cars.' The roads around me just freaking suck and nothing ever gets paved. NYS and its weather blow! Tundra will allow me to tow my other toys anyways. I just can't part ways with my baby yet...lulz
If I do sell, a part our will most likely happen.
For now, I gotta fix the boot.
I've been looking into getting a new 'car' anyways but I don't know if I can part ways with the tC. I've been looking at getting a new Tundra and getting away from 'cars.' The roads around me just freaking suck and nothing ever gets paved. NYS and its weather blow! Tundra will allow me to tow my other toys anyways. I just can't part ways with my baby yet...lulz
If I do sell, a part our will most likely happen.
For now, I gotta fix the boot.
08-25-2009, 07:29 AM
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My passenger cv boot has been torn for months. I bought a replacement boot but then some a-hole breaks into my car and takes only the axle grease WTF??
Suprisingly, it doesn't make any noises so far. My ABS speed sensor was also ripped, i suppose something got caught in there. Anyways, it's still torn.. gotta get it fix soon before I have to buy a new axle.
Suprisingly, it doesn't make any noises so far. My ABS speed sensor was also ripped, i suppose something got caught in there. Anyways, it's still torn.. gotta get it fix soon before I have to buy a new axle.
02-24-2010, 07:17 PM
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It shouldn't be too bad. You're still going to have to un-mount the end of the axle to get the boot off though. Unless it's one of those kits where the boot fits over and then screws together, those are really easy.
02-24-2010, 08:23 PM
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Yeah, when the boot tears dust and road debris get into the joint. Once the grease all falls out there is nothing to lubricate the axle.
I've heard wrapping a wal-mart bag and zip tieing can help until you get it fixed.
Keep it to a minimal and you should be alright. This thread reminded me that I need to check mine and see if the leaking came back.
I've heard wrapping a wal-mart bag and zip tieing can help until you get it fixed.
Keep it to a minimal and you should be alright. This thread reminded me that I need to check mine and see if the leaking came back.
05-21-2010, 05:15 PM
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my boots tore again.. 
looking for a diy, cuz i don't know how to replace it. lol can anyone help??
also, the walmart bag might not be so good, because if it gets hot, it'll melt or just wrap itself around the axle/bearing/joint and tear off or something..
looking for a diy, cuz i don't know how to replace it. lol can anyone help??also, the walmart bag might not be so good, because if it gets hot, it'll melt or just wrap itself around the axle/bearing/joint and tear off or something..
05-21-2010, 07:30 PM
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Well I know the kits that bolt together are really easy but I don't know how reliable they are. Those are the ones that wrap around the joint then get clamped/bolted together whatever, so you don't have to take off the axle.
An oem replacement will require draining the tranny and pulling the axles out. Good bit of work.
An oem replacement will require draining the tranny and pulling the axles out. Good bit of work.
05-22-2010, 04:30 AM
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damnit.. lol
soo, this is our convo.. lmao
Peter ok TOOLs: the most important is the 32mm or 36mm 16 point deep socket that you will need to take the nut off the axle by the hub i forgot which one it is but i think its a 32 mm or 36 i can check for you then u will need like some 14mm sockets or 12mm and a tire iron
----
10 hours ago ·
Peter car on the floor take off center cap of both wheels and use the deep sock 16 with a good breaker bar and crack the nuts loose on the axles on both sides
10 hours ago ·
Peter u need to use the weight of the car to help u loosen the nuts.. once the nuts are loose just take them off as much as u can with out taking them off completely... and easily jack up the car...use some wd40 or penetrating lube also to help loosen the nuts
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin oh snap.. lol jerrik.. why is ur info different from pete's =O uh oh... alright, sooo where did you buy these tools?!?
9 hours ago ·
Peter once thats done jack up the car and slide the wheels off... then drain the trans...once the trans is drained take off the axle nuts completely and begin to loosed up the suspension so u can slide the hub off all together off the axle... once the hubs are off and secured by something under neath it like some box crates or some more jack stands or ...
See More
9 hours ago ·
omg, i gotta drain the tranny too??
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin holy ____, you are a human tech guide tho man.. thank you!!
9 hours ago ·
Peterfor the PASS SIDE: .... first u need to loosen the 2 14 or 12mm nuts on the passenger side half shaft bracket... follow the axle from the trans outward and when u reach the bracket the 2 bolts u need to loosen are on the inner side facing the trans...once the two bolts are off... gently tap the axle with a hammer and wiggle it around and you should be able to pop it off its bearing... from there repeat process to take axle out from driver side but by then the axle should be much easier to pop off...
it also has a snap ring on the end so becareful... trans fluid might leak so be ready incase it wasnt fully drained.. from there the axles should be free
9 hours ago ·
Peter reverse process to install axles back and fill trans at end and ur done... trans uses 2.5 qrts or until it spits out the front from the over fill hole
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin omg u da man pete!
9 hours ago ·
Peter ur welcome man!
9 hours ago ·
Jerrik Damn nice guide man haha. All I remember is the axle nut is a 30 or 32mm 12 point deep socket, unless it's different on the different year tCs, that's what I had the most trouble finding.
9 hours ago ·
Peter no its not different.. its a deep 32 or 36 i cant remember off hand i dont have my notes with me at work ...
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin alrightyyy, thanks pete.. im off to sears and kragen, autozone, etc, now!!
thanks jerrik too!! it's a 12pnt.. lol
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin u guys are the best!! and pete, ima copy and paste this to scion life, and start a tech.. lol
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin annnd, i made those last posts not refreshing the notifications.. lol seems to me the winner is 32mm socket..
9 hours ago ·
Jerrik sure the oem axle nut isn't a 30mm? i'm just going by this DIY... http://clubsciontc.com/forums/diy-in...-shafts-32463/ haha
9 hours ago ·
Peter ah i stnad corrected jerrik.. good find. i have it all written down at home but im at work =( and ben seemed to need it asap lol.. i think on the SL forums on the repair GIFs it also says it but i didnt feel like going on to SL cuz im swamped. i could be thinking 32 when i put the other axle back on since i upgraded mines to DSS axles.
"yeah.. get at that link.. lol"
soo, this is our convo.. lmao
Peter ok TOOLs: the most important is the 32mm or 36mm 16 point deep socket that you will need to take the nut off the axle by the hub i forgot which one it is but i think its a 32 mm or 36 i can check for you then u will need like some 14mm sockets or 12mm and a tire iron
----
10 hours ago ·
Peter car on the floor take off center cap of both wheels and use the deep sock 16 with a good breaker bar and crack the nuts loose on the axles on both sides
10 hours ago ·
Peter u need to use the weight of the car to help u loosen the nuts.. once the nuts are loose just take them off as much as u can with out taking them off completely... and easily jack up the car...use some wd40 or penetrating lube also to help loosen the nuts
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin oh snap.. lol jerrik.. why is ur info different from pete's =O uh oh... alright, sooo where did you buy these tools?!?
9 hours ago ·
Peter once thats done jack up the car and slide the wheels off... then drain the trans...once the trans is drained take off the axle nuts completely and begin to loosed up the suspension so u can slide the hub off all together off the axle... once the hubs are off and secured by something under neath it like some box crates or some more jack stands or ...
See More
9 hours ago ·
omg, i gotta drain the tranny too??
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin holy ____, you are a human tech guide tho man.. thank you!!
9 hours ago ·
Peterfor the PASS SIDE: .... first u need to loosen the 2 14 or 12mm nuts on the passenger side half shaft bracket... follow the axle from the trans outward and when u reach the bracket the 2 bolts u need to loosen are on the inner side facing the trans...once the two bolts are off... gently tap the axle with a hammer and wiggle it around and you should be able to pop it off its bearing... from there repeat process to take axle out from driver side but by then the axle should be much easier to pop off...
it also has a snap ring on the end so becareful... trans fluid might leak so be ready incase it wasnt fully drained.. from there the axles should be free
9 hours ago ·
Peter reverse process to install axles back and fill trans at end and ur done... trans uses 2.5 qrts or until it spits out the front from the over fill hole
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin omg u da man pete!
9 hours ago ·
Peter ur welcome man!
9 hours ago ·
Jerrik Damn nice guide man haha. All I remember is the axle nut is a 30 or 32mm 12 point deep socket, unless it's different on the different year tCs, that's what I had the most trouble finding.
9 hours ago ·
Peter no its not different.. its a deep 32 or 36 i cant remember off hand i dont have my notes with me at work ...
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin alrightyyy, thanks pete.. im off to sears and kragen, autozone, etc, now!!
thanks jerrik too!! it's a 12pnt.. lol
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin u guys are the best!! and pete, ima copy and paste this to scion life, and start a tech.. lol
9 hours ago ·
Benjamin annnd, i made those last posts not refreshing the notifications.. lol seems to me the winner is 32mm socket..
9 hours ago ·
Jerrik sure the oem axle nut isn't a 30mm? i'm just going by this DIY... http://clubsciontc.com/forums/diy-in...-shafts-32463/ haha
9 hours ago ·
Peter ah i stnad corrected jerrik.. good find. i have it all written down at home but im at work =( and ben seemed to need it asap lol.. i think on the SL forums on the repair GIFs it also says it but i didnt feel like going on to SL cuz im swamped. i could be thinking 32 when i put the other axle back on since i upgraded mines to DSS axles.
"yeah.. get at that link.. lol"