Bent Dezod rear endlink...
#1
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Bent Dezod rear endlink...
My rear right endlink seems to be a little bent. It's not straight like it used to be because one of the bushings for my sway bar got loose and was always hitting the bottom of the car when i drove up steep driveways and such. I guess that's what caused it to bend a little. Do you guys think it's okay to drive around on this?
#5
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#6
Could have been from a pot hole or something hit hard on that side. That is about the only thing that would bend these next to a full on car accident.
Last edited by paul_dezod; 04-23-2010 at 09:33 PM.
#8
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I can tell you for sure i havnt been in wreck or hit any bad pot holes. ever since i dropped my car last summer ive been really careful driving everywhere and taking alternative routes. i mean the car seems to drive fine but i just want to make sure it wont crap out on me soon. plus some of the parts are rusting a little bit. ill try and get some better photos posted up soon.
#10
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Alright I just took some photos. Managed to get home early.
Here's the left endlink.
Here's the right endlink.
Sorry for the slightly blurry pics. My exhaust is in the way so it was kind of hard to get a good angle.
...but yeah I just want to make sure my stuff wont fall apart while Im driving cause that would suck really bad.
Here's the left endlink.
Here's the right endlink.
Sorry for the slightly blurry pics. My exhaust is in the way so it was kind of hard to get a good angle.
...but yeah I just want to make sure my stuff wont fall apart while Im driving cause that would suck really bad.
#12
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Yeah I figure. Thats one reason why I went with the TRD swaybar cause Ill be doing a lot of DD. Just wanted something better than stock endlinks so I went with Dezod since I've heard a lot of great things from him.
#15
I bent my Dezod endlinks (TRD bar), most likely due to improper install. They bent after less than a month. I didn't use washers to make them as vertical as possible. They were also unequal heights, that may have contributed as well. I drove on them broken for a few weeks.
Now with the Progress endlinks (very similar to Dezod ones), I tried to get them as vertical as possible, and they're holding up great.
Now with the Progress endlinks (very similar to Dezod ones), I tried to get them as vertical as possible, and they're holding up great.
#16
Honestly dont know why people go out and buy aftermarket endlinks to run a TRD rear bar. There is no preloading issues with a stock bar and not enough adjustment positions to warrant adjustable links. I have run stock endlinks since I bought the car, including about 4 years with a trd bar and 3 seasons of autox.
Will be switching of course to run the dezod links with the DG bar when it gets here.
Will be switching of course to run the dezod links with the DG bar when it gets here.
#17
Honestly dont know why people go out and buy aftermarket endlinks to run a TRD rear bar. There is no preloading issues with a stock bar and not enough adjustment positions to warrant adjustable links. I have run stock endlinks since I bought the car, including about 4 years with a trd bar and 3 seasons of autox.
Will be switching of course to run the dezod links with the DG bar when it gets here.
Will be switching of course to run the dezod links with the DG bar when it gets here.
Same here, I've been running TRD rear sway bar with stock endlinks on stiffest setting for 3+years.
#18
Dezod adjustable endlink install instructions
http://www.dezod.com/files/Scion%20T...%20Endlink.pdf
Can someone please explain the instructions given on how to determine the length to set your endlinks at?
http://www.dezod.com/files/Scion%20T...%20Endlink.pdf
Can someone please explain the instructions given on how to determine the length to set your endlinks at?
#19
You want to keep the links fairly perpendicular to the mounting point.
In addition, you get them adjusted pretty close that way, then:
1) Connect one side only
2) Let the car sit on the most level surface you can find (you can even use some sort of shim, like plywood, under a tire if you need to get it level) with the full weight of the car sitting on the wheels.
3) Tweak the adjustment of the other link so it easily fits in the bar.
That will remove any preload in the sway.
In addition, you get them adjusted pretty close that way, then:
1) Connect one side only
2) Let the car sit on the most level surface you can find (you can even use some sort of shim, like plywood, under a tire if you need to get it level) with the full weight of the car sitting on the wheels.
3) Tweak the adjustment of the other link so it easily fits in the bar.
That will remove any preload in the sway.
#20
You want to keep the links fairly perpendicular to the mounting point.
In addition, you get them adjusted pretty close that way, then:
1) Connect one side only
2) Let the car sit on the most level surface you can find (you can even use some sort of shim, like plywood, under a tire if you need to get it level) with the full weight of the car sitting on the wheels.
3) Tweak the adjustment of the other link so it easily fits in the bar.
That will remove any preload in the sway.
In addition, you get them adjusted pretty close that way, then:
1) Connect one side only
2) Let the car sit on the most level surface you can find (you can even use some sort of shim, like plywood, under a tire if you need to get it level) with the full weight of the car sitting on the wheels.
3) Tweak the adjustment of the other link so it easily fits in the bar.
That will remove any preload in the sway.
Poor install or having unequal lengths on them (preload biased to one side) can cause them to have issues as well.
An adjustable endlinks works well if the ride height is altered from stock because this changes the overall suspension geometry. This is the whole rhyme and reason behind the adjustable length of them.