krolla

I've driven several real "performace" cars M3, S4 etc.. after getting back into my tC is when I realize that our brakes SUCK..

I just replace the stock Potenzas with Hankook Ventus HRII (same size). I know these are not "top of the line", but I expected some improvement in stopping distance under hard braking (ABS grinding hard). I do test this in evey car I own on an empty road, just to learn how the car behaves in an emergency.

Last week I was cut-off by another driver and I broke hard (ABS engaged) and hit her.. It caused me to wonder if I had better brakes, would I have been able to stop sooner?

I think back to doing the same braking in the M3 aned S4, both cars stop HARD, throwing passangers forward with little hint of ABS, ours just seems to slide with ABS grinding away the whole time..

I am considering upgrading to braided hoses, cross drilled (stock sized for now) and sport pads, in an inexpensive effort to improve/shorten braking distance..

... the more I think about it, It makes me wonder... the stock brakes (calipers, pads & rotors) are providing enough force for the wheel to attempt to lockup, this causing the ABS to intervine, so how much would I really gain by improving these areas? (Brake fade, Track use aside)

When I think of it that way, I'm almost leaning toward buying stickier, wider tires and maybe bumping up to 18" rims FIRST in an effort to improve grip...

Any thoughts...?

NiKo

if you use a wider tire it should help but also the suspension would make a difference i would say going with like a 225 minimum like a 225/45zr17 with ceramic pads

Woody6799

you could also do a big brake kit but i def do recommend suspension work and a wider tire

yellot00tr

iTrader: (1)

get some hawk hps pads. they dust alot, but they're a huge improvement over stock. after that, get some better tires. i'm trying to figure out what tires to get right now as well. at this point, i'm down to either the toyo proxes t1r, or the p-nero system's, both at 225-40-18. not sure if i could get away with a 235, i gotta check to see if anyone's done it, and what they had to do to make it fit. i'm not looking to roll fenders, etc etc.

DuMa

lighten the weight.

sravage

I run Hawk HP-Plus up front and they are great. Granted they do squeal a bit, and do dust more than stock but they are a fantastic pad. Any real performance pad will squeal and dust anyway, except EBC Red Stuff. The Hawks use a non-corrosive formula so the dust wont eat the finish on your wheels. I also did steel braided brake lines. I run the car on a road course and it's perfect. Cross drilled rotors would only make a diffrence if you do a LOT (as in auto cross or track) of heavy braking. I'll assume you don'y go around slamming on the brakes every time you want to stop. As for tires, the ABS is gonna pulse to prevent the tire from sliding. You want a different compound for latteral grip in corners, not really for inline grip. The tire guru's design the tread pattern for grip in cornering not really in stoping. Will it help? Yes, but not a ton, unless of course your gonna run huge Nito's up front. As for wheels, stay light. Adding more un-sprung weight will only make the brakes work harder. If you go huge on the wheel then I'd consider the BBK. Hope this helsp a bit.

But your right.... The stock brakes suck!

HKSpeed

i bet alot of other things about the tC suck after driving those cars...basically everything.

The base M3 and S4 have 13" slotted or drilled rotors, ceramic pads, steel braided lines, 4 piston front/2 piston rear calipers, larger master cylinder, and electronic stability control/brake assist. Get such hardware and you'll brake like them in no time.

06SuperWhite_SoCal_tC

The tC has EBD "I think it was" braking which automatically sends braking power to the front or rear, depending on traction. So for street use, just getting a OEM sized slotted/crossdrilled rotor would be the best bet. If your going to do any kind of track racing, go with a BBK.

But to answer your question, stickier tires is whats going to yield shorter stopping distances.

goingcarcrazy

my guess is a combo of everything. stiffer suspension, better pads, better rotors, and better tires. I know for some (especially after a crash) money's kinda tight, so prolly the single biggest help may be better tires.

io333

In this order:

1. Tires
2. Tires
3. Tires
4. Weight
5. Suspension
6. Brake force distribution set up (front/rear)

Notice that calipers/pads do not enter into the equation. The only reason to upgrade the brakes is if you are having fade problems.

goingcarcrazy

So you're saying that all the brakes on an Audi R8 or Porsche 911 GT3 has over the brakes on our cars is less brake fade? I don't think so. Calipers, pads, and new rotors will shorted stopping distance, but yes, my friend has an RSX, he got Falken 512 tires and Axis ultimate break pads and when he did a 40-0 test on his car, it cut his distance by about a quarter of what it was (hypothetically 100ft previously, 75 ft now), so yes, on our tC's, knowing the tires, that would be the best for the money.

BuddhasTC

cars like the M3 have bigger rotors and better brake systems such as brembo brakes or wilwood (not exact brands just equivalents). All stock brakes on cheaper compact cars (such as ours) SUCK!!! If you want better brakes, you gotta buy big brake kits

FLINT

INGALLS break lines!!!!

Somnambulated

I agree it's time to upgrade your pads and rotors, but suspension does help noticably.

TheQuietThings

I love how tC's are compared to performance vehicles from Germany.

What do you think is going to brake better? Huge german brakes, or street rotors?

Of course the $60,000 car is going to brake better. Compare the tC's braking to a Civic, or a Cobalt or something, and you will feel 10X more safe in a tC.

06SuperWhite_SoCal_tC

tC already has a Brake Distribution system, don't mess with it. The only reason you should have to manually mess with it is if your car doesnt have a Ditribution system already. There was a mag that did a test on a BBK for the tC and found out the hard way that it already has a system in place.

io333

Yes.

whatever

racecaryaya

First of all, tires are the biggest factor in stopping distance. Period. I bet the M3 and S4 had larger, wider and stickier tires than the tC. Are you confusing actual stopping distace with pedal feel? Because the tC's pedal feels horrible compared to most other cars I've driven and that may be why you think the stopping distance is that much worse. You can remedy that by using Motul Super Blue (DOT4) brake fluid and putting stainless steel lines on all foue corners.

Secondly, slotted or cross-drilled rotors will do absolutely nothing for your braking distance.

Finally, the braking distance for the tC isn't really that bad compared to other cars in its class (it's better than the Civic Si and Mazda 3 right out of the box).

Additionally: sravage, how the hell can you daily drive on HP+s?! I only put them on for Autox and track days then promptly remove them again (the whole process takes less than 30 minutes to swap pads). The wear on the rotors alone makes it worth running the stock compound pads![/quote]

melvynray

i changed rotors and pads. it brakes Worse than stock..... any ideas.. its driving me crazy!

racecaryaya

Did you bleed the brake lines after changing the parts? If not—or even if so—bleed the lines and see how the brakes feel then.