Hello All,

I will be doing a brake pad change on the front and rears as well as doing a brake fluid flush (Which i have never done yet). And i have some questions.

Brakes currently:
Wilwood BBK up front
Larger rotors with stock calipers in rear
Front & rear SS lines

Changing to:
Wilwood 150-8854K Pads
EBC Greenstuff Pads
Recommended brake fluid

I have never done a brake fluid flush before and had a few questions...
1) What brand of fluid do you guys recommend? Currently I THINK my mechanic used Motul something or another 30K miles ago.
2) When doing a flush, how hard should the brakes be pressed each time when bleeding lines and valve is slightly opened, all the way to the floor?
3) Also what size tubing fits over the bleeder valve? 3/8"?
3) Which order of wheels should be bled first?

I couldn't find exact answers to my questions. Sorry if this is confusing, thanks in advance!

 

EBC Greenstuff will have crazy brake dust. I have them.
1. Just pick one.
2. You can push it however hard you want. Just have a D vise grip to close it back up. I think there's 2 ends, so you can put air from the top and it'll bleed down the bottom.
3. No specific order. I would recommend doing your rears first if you don't know what you're doing. That way if you messed up, you can still drive it to your nearest garage.

 

there are MANY diy's on this..... GOOGLE

1 search
2 motul dot 4 is good
3 not too hard because youll mess the piston up, again search, youll see that you put a block of wood underneath the pedal
4 dont remember
5 in order of farthest from the brake master cyclinder to the closest
6 search again

 

i have the green stuff i love them but damn dust is insane... but if you clean the car regularly your fine.

 

Your answers confuse me. Brake fluid should be selected based on how he drives the car, not just on a 'pick one' strategy.

On number 2, are you suggesting that you add air to the system so you can bleed it out? If so, this is a terrible idea. Never introduce air into the system if you can help it.

As aparreira9586 mentioned start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) and then move closer to the master cylinder.

How do you drive the car? Do you race it? Do you mind if you have to change the fluid regularly? These answers will help determine the fluid you should run. However, if you don't race stock or stock equivalent is probably fine.

You will need two people to bleed it properly, unless you have a power bleeder of some sort. You will need someone to press the pedal and someone else to crack/tighten the bleeder.

This looks like a good how-to:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213448.html

I'm not sure on the tubing.

 

I drive the car regularly. No racing.

I plan to have a friend press and release brakes while i loosen and tighten the bleeder valve.

Thank you all on the answers, I will be doing this in about a week.

 

These are nice http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

I've also been experiencing creaking noises when depressing the brake pedal at a stop. Is it a good idea to lube up the piston or caliper parts while i'm at it?

What kind of lube do I need to use?

 

Start from the RR, LR, RF, LF in the order but make sure u have enought fluid in the reservoir before u start on the next wheel.

 

O ya have a buddy pump the pedal 3times n hold, open the valve till the fluid comes out w/o air.

 

So I was in process of putting in the Wilwood pads up front today, but had difficulty putting in the inner pads. The outside pads fit tight but went in okay. But there is def no room for the inner pads, even with piston fully compressed.

I am sure the pads are the correct replacements.

 

update.. had issues before because used the wrong brake pads Same shape and dimensions except .15 too thick. FYI for anyone in the future, make sure you buy Wilwood 150-8855K pads.

 

So far put on EBC brake pads in the rear and bled the fluids in the two rear wheels. EBC pads squeel a little bit at slow speeds. Also the brake pedal feels soft and mushy still.

I bled lines while filling up fluid reservoir with Motul RBF 600. I used the one-man bleeder kit on each wheel.

Does this sound normal? Will the mushy feeling go away after I do the front pads & bleed those lines? Thanks!

 

I find the tC's brakes to be particularly mushy. I've driven other cars and found many of them to have a much firmer pedal with far less travel. I thought something was wrong with the brake system on my tC so I also changed the fluid and bled the system. I experienced no change in pedal feel. I then felt the brake pedal in two other tC's and they both felt the same as mine. I decided that the tC just doesn't have a firm brake pedal. It will get firm if you pump it of course, but compared to the pedal feel on say a Mazda 3 it's completely different.

If you haven't bled all the lines yet I'd suggest that first. After that, I'd suggest feeling the pedal in another tC. If it feels the same as yours you should be fine.

 

Bled the front lines and changed pads. Its a bit better now but still mushy, i guess its just like this always. I was sure to bleed the brakes with the engine ON also.

Now theres this noise from my front right wheels when going slowly like 5mph or less. It sounds like the noise that comes from a big-rig's wheel when its coming to a stop. No clue how to describe it.

 

how does the brake feel compare to before the brake fluid flush

 

when you bled the brakes, the vinyl hose you used to bleed the brake fluid, did it fight TIGHTLY against the bleeder valve? when i did mine i believe it was a 5/32" or 3/32" inner diameter. Have to dig it out again, but it was NOT 3/8" at all! you might be sucking air back into the lines when bleeding.

 

Brakes do feel better after doing the brake flush vs. prior.

I ended up using a one man brake bleeder kit which came with this adapter thing on the end of the tubing. The adapter was a narrow hard plastic piece that went inside of the bleeder opening. It didn't fit very tight at all, but nothing dripped out so i guess it fit okay.

That noise when rolling slowly in a parking lot is scaring me. Not sure what i could be from.. maybe pads against rotor?

 

air can leak back into the system even if it's "not dripping out". You should get the proper size vinyl hose for the bleeder screw, get a friend to pump the brakes, and re-bleed the system. so no it's not okay the way it is since you admitted the bleeder hose didn't fit well.