Dan Gardner Custom Sway Bar is now available thru Dezod Motorsports
#643
The main point is that you want zero preload on the bar with the weight of the car sitting on the suspension. The only way to do that reliably is to set the length of the links with the car sitting on the wheels. And you really should have it sitting on the wheels on a level surface or you still have some amount of preload. You can get away with doing it on a fairly level surface, sitting on ramps.
I used a string and level along with some scraps of plywood under the tires where needed to level the car. I then was able to lie down and reach under the car to set the endlink lengths.
I used a string and level along with some scraps of plywood under the tires where needed to level the car. I then was able to lie down and reach under the car to set the endlink lengths.
#645
Has anyone else noticed the bar rubbing the bracket the endlinks mount to? I checked my bar the other day to make sure all was good and saw a spot where the paint had been worn off the bar. I moved the endlinks out a little more to get the bar higher but I think it is still making contact under hard cornering. I'd move the endlinks out more but I don't like to have less than the thickness of the threaded rod in the heim joint. I'll try and get a picture up in a few.
Here we go:
Here we go:
Last edited by tCb00b; 07-15-2010 at 03:08 AM. Reason: Added photos.
#647
I'll see how much further I can go tomorrow. How far out do you think the links can be positioned before they are a hazard?
Edit:
The website says over 4.25", I'll bust out the dial caliper when I adjust them.
Edit:
The website says over 4.25", I'll bust out the dial caliper when I adjust them.
Last edited by tCb00b; 07-15-2010 at 03:28 AM. Reason: Found answer.
#650
you have to completely tighten everything on the endlink. Actually everything in general that is connected to the bar. I notice I had a popping noise coming from my right side, went back down, re-tighten everything, and now its fine. I have grown use to the squeaks. Tried to re-lube everything, work fine for the first few hours and then back to noise noise noise...so yea.
#651
Def too much for me as a DD. It's no doubt a great sway bar to run, but it's too much noise and way too stiff when i'm just trying to cruise around town
been giving it some thought for the last week or two and i'm mostly likely going back to the TRD route. not going to sell this sway bar but just save it for special occasions.
been giving it some thought for the last week or two and i'm mostly likely going back to the TRD route. not going to sell this sway bar but just save it for special occasions.
#652
Got the lube in the bushings, Tightened everything down, still some noise...not like a 'only i notice it cause its my car noise' but a noise that other people notice >_> Is it ok to go past the torque recommendations without damaging anything? Or are the brackets around the bushings too tight and causing it to do this?
#653
As Paul stated, these are poly bushings. If you lube them well, you should be able to get rid of most squeaking. However, there will be some creaking now and then. Cool mornings, or when you are just backing the car up easy and stop, will make these come out. During most driving you should be fine if you keep them lubed. You will also probably need to lube them every so often to deal with this
Been answered in this thread already.
And over-tightening will potentially cause failure of the hardware.
#654
#658
i used every drop of lube. it was still noisy so i was gonna get some of that lithium grease, but before i could, one of my bushings and brackets were completely destroyed... gonna order universal brackets and ES 25mm bushings, when i have some spare change...
#659