Dan Gardner Custom Sway Bar is now available thru Dezod Motorsports
07-25-2010, 08:08 AM
#664
Senior Member
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: northside of the chi
Posts: 329
sorry to bring this thread back a couple pages, but I have a question about this. I noticed on the picture that the two points by the strut towers where it's mounted, it's actually a piece welded on that the bar is mounted to. Would you guys be making a plate to mount onto the three (or two) bolts above the towers and weld that onto the bar? or would this be an exact replica where welding would be necessary?
08-30-2010, 07:12 PM
#666
my driver's side bushing bracket just broke as well. brackets were torqued to spec! gonna send dezod pictures later today. very disappointed! token, did you manage to replace yours, if so... how? im wondering if the stock sway bar bushing bracket will work?
08-30-2010, 08:11 PM
#667
i ordered another ES 25mm sway bushing, i went through Paul and the bushing is at his place now. i didnt get charged for it yet i guess cuz it was special order but became unemployed so i couldnt pay for it once it came in. lol but i got my unemployment check in today sooo.... Paul if you see this, dont get rid of the bushing, ill call you today or tomorrow and get the payment to you. im pretty sure the bracket will come with the bushing but if it doesnt im gonna **** myself cuz the bushing was $37 after shipping for 1 bushing, compared to like 15$ for a pair of 21mm bushings w/ brackets from energy suspension
08-30-2010, 11:56 PM
#669
Just removed the broken bracket and it's broken in the same fashion yours did token. I don't mean to take away dezod from making 37 bucks off you, but if it's the same bracket, it'll just break again. I managed to use the stock oem rear sway bar bracket which is far better quality and design then these gold piece of ____ brackets! Now that I think about it, I'm going to switch out the other side with the OEM bracket as well, I seriously don't need it breaking on me at the track or worse, in the canyons.
Pics of broken bracket
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/1384/photo0056m.jpg
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/9669/photo0053.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/4310/photo0054l.jpg
Pic of other sides bracket
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/6750/photo0055v.jpg
Pics of broken bracket
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/1384/photo0056m.jpg
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/9669/photo0053.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/4310/photo0054l.jpg
Pic of other sides bracket
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/6750/photo0055v.jpg
Last edited by KiKaZ-tC; 08-31-2010 at 05:13 PM.
08-31-2010, 02:14 AM
#671
luckily when my bracket broke, i heard it and was able to find my bushing on the street. you won't beable to use the stock bushings, but you can use the stock bracket. just go to autozone and get a 25mm sway bar bushing.
09-01-2010, 11:20 AM
#673
I would like to know the same thing. As Progress, whom made Dan's bar, had over-engineered this to begin with and Dan has 4 years of race abuse on the same bars without issues. What where you guys torquing these things to as well? Lastly, I suppose if you had it on an aggressive setting, had the bolts there over-tightened and jarred a pretty decent pot hole or a curb, I suppose it could break......:?
09-01-2010, 04:26 PM
#674
I would like to know the same thing. As Progress, whom made Dan's bar, had over-engineered this to begin with and Dan has 4 years of race abuse on the same bars without issues. What where you guys torquing these things to as well? Lastly, I suppose if you had it on an aggressive setting, had the bolts there over-tightened and jarred a pretty decent pot hole or a curb, I suppose it could break......:?
Another issue I have is that from the beginning this bar's fitment isn't exactly perfect. The issue has been brought up about the bushing stoppers on the sway bar are too close to the bracket point causing rubbing, do you think this may have caused extra stress on the bracket?
Now I want to clarify that the bar is generally great! The only issue I have are the brackets that came with it. If you look at the design of the brackets, they cut the holes for the brackets way too close to the bends.
How am I using this bar?
-softest setting
-endlink bolts torqued to 32 ft-lbs
-bracket bolts torqued to 26 ft-lbs
-car is daily driver
-taken to the track once a week
09-01-2010, 04:46 PM
#675
im on medium setting and i do a lot of spirited mountain driving, im sure i was over-torqued before but i just put new bushings back on at the same specs as kikaz, checked the bar maybe 4 times since putting it on yesterday and no issues so far other than my tires rubbing lol. also i spun out a week before the bracket broke, not sure if that had anything to do with it
09-01-2010, 07:35 PM
#676
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 628
Good point in terms of the "exact" bars on our two DG-Spec cars. Your point is EXACTLY why we switched to new bars from the EXACT same batch you guys have. No issues on our end on either car racing this year in World Challenge.
09-01-2010, 07:44 PM
#677
An you guys have not had an easy WC year at all between crashes, spin outs and such....
09-01-2010, 08:34 PM
#678
i just dont like being told that it was probably due to improper install when you guys arent even taking into consideration that the bar wasnt exactly perfect. a lot has to do with the design of the brackets but i wish you guys would acknowledge this and the fact that the bushing stopper on the bar rubs against the bracket mounting point and that this could be the reasons for bracket failure. just give it more time dan, you guys have only had the bar brackets as long as we have on cars that arent daily driven.
09-02-2010, 01:22 AM
#679
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 2
DG-Spec Crewchief here
Progress has the photos and is aware of the concern.
The sway bars and all associated hardware was replaced on the 18 car and installed on the 36 car at the beginning of this season. I have replaced pretty much all suspension components on both cars this season for various reasons, but the DG-Spec bars remain.
To ensure zero preload, I personally install the bar after I corner balance on the scales. The average consumer with reasonable mechanical knowledge could install the bar at ride height (with all weight on the rear tires) and ensure the hardware can be installed smoothly by hand (without moving the bar up or down). The endlinks should be approximately the same length, but not necessarily exactly the same length.
Because of the degree of adjustability with this bar, I would suggest carefully inspecting everything and ensure there are no interference issues (control arm, etc).
As far as the noise, this is a race component. Use the ES grease on all rubbing components (between the bar and bushing). Due to the nature of polyurethane, the bar rotates inside the bushing rather than a stock rubber bushing acting like an additional torsional member. This sliding is what causes the squeaking.
One member mentioned the bar is too stiff for a daily driver. I personally do not like a very stiff RSB on my daily driver. I have been known to disconnect my bar for the street by removing one endlink and hook it up for an autocross or track event.
Never put yourself in a position that if any component fails, your parents have to dig you out of the side of a canyon. Keep your driving safe, sane, and legal on the street. Have fun at the track, in a controlled environment.
Bradley Allen
Progress has the photos and is aware of the concern.
The sway bars and all associated hardware was replaced on the 18 car and installed on the 36 car at the beginning of this season. I have replaced pretty much all suspension components on both cars this season for various reasons, but the DG-Spec bars remain.
To ensure zero preload, I personally install the bar after I corner balance on the scales. The average consumer with reasonable mechanical knowledge could install the bar at ride height (with all weight on the rear tires) and ensure the hardware can be installed smoothly by hand (without moving the bar up or down). The endlinks should be approximately the same length, but not necessarily exactly the same length.
Because of the degree of adjustability with this bar, I would suggest carefully inspecting everything and ensure there are no interference issues (control arm, etc).
As far as the noise, this is a race component. Use the ES grease on all rubbing components (between the bar and bushing). Due to the nature of polyurethane, the bar rotates inside the bushing rather than a stock rubber bushing acting like an additional torsional member. This sliding is what causes the squeaking.
One member mentioned the bar is too stiff for a daily driver. I personally do not like a very stiff RSB on my daily driver. I have been known to disconnect my bar for the street by removing one endlink and hook it up for an autocross or track event.
Never put yourself in a position that if any component fails, your parents have to dig you out of the side of a canyon. Keep your driving safe, sane, and legal on the street. Have fun at the track, in a controlled environment.
Bradley Allen
09-02-2010, 02:16 PM
#680
DG-Spec Crewchief here
Progress has the photos and is aware of the concern.
The sway bars and all associated hardware was replaced on the 18 car and installed on the 36 car at the beginning of this season. I have replaced pretty much all suspension components on both cars this season for various reasons, but the DG-Spec bars remain.
To ensure zero preload, I personally install the bar after I corner balance on the scales. The average consumer with reasonable mechanical knowledge could install the bar at ride height (with all weight on the rear tires) and ensure the hardware can be installed smoothly by hand (without moving the bar up or down). The endlinks should be approximately the same length, but not necessarily exactly the same length.
Because of the degree of adjustability with this bar, I would suggest carefully inspecting everything and ensure there are no interference issues (control arm, etc).
As far as the noise, this is a race component. Use the ES grease on all rubbing components (between the bar and bushing). Due to the nature of polyurethane, the bar rotates inside the bushing rather than a stock rubber bushing acting like an additional torsional member. This sliding is what causes the squeaking.
One member mentioned the bar is too stiff for a daily driver. I personally do not like a very stiff RSB on my daily driver. I have been known to disconnect my bar for the street by removing one endlink and hook it up for an autocross or track event.
Never put yourself in a position that if any component fails, your parents have to dig you out of the side of a canyon. Keep your driving safe, sane, and legal on the street. Have fun at the track, in a controlled environment.
Bradley Allen
Progress has the photos and is aware of the concern.
The sway bars and all associated hardware was replaced on the 18 car and installed on the 36 car at the beginning of this season. I have replaced pretty much all suspension components on both cars this season for various reasons, but the DG-Spec bars remain.
To ensure zero preload, I personally install the bar after I corner balance on the scales. The average consumer with reasonable mechanical knowledge could install the bar at ride height (with all weight on the rear tires) and ensure the hardware can be installed smoothly by hand (without moving the bar up or down). The endlinks should be approximately the same length, but not necessarily exactly the same length.
Because of the degree of adjustability with this bar, I would suggest carefully inspecting everything and ensure there are no interference issues (control arm, etc).
As far as the noise, this is a race component. Use the ES grease on all rubbing components (between the bar and bushing). Due to the nature of polyurethane, the bar rotates inside the bushing rather than a stock rubber bushing acting like an additional torsional member. This sliding is what causes the squeaking.
One member mentioned the bar is too stiff for a daily driver. I personally do not like a very stiff RSB on my daily driver. I have been known to disconnect my bar for the street by removing one endlink and hook it up for an autocross or track event.
Never put yourself in a position that if any component fails, your parents have to dig you out of the side of a canyon. Keep your driving safe, sane, and legal on the street. Have fun at the track, in a controlled environment.
Bradley Allen