Dan Gardner Custom Sway Bar is now available thru Dezod Motorsports
#681
#682
Oh, words from Jeff at Progress:
The bushing bracket is a stout one. It is running in our new tooling, and is a
well-engineered part. We have sold 10s of thousands of them (really). The
mounting bolt spacing is close, so we need use this smaller "series" bracket.
The bar (25mm) is very large for this bracket, so the poly bushing is thin. This
means the poly is not forgiving, or any "cushion" for the bar loads. Dan, you
have MANY race miles on this setup, and it will work fine if properly installed.
Expect the 25mm bushing life to be shorter than our "Progress" 22mm bar setup.
Installation notes, all these are all important:
1) The brackets must be tight. If they move, they will fatigue and fail. This
is true of this bracket or any other.
2) After the bar is mounted to the chassis, in lubricated bushings and tightened,
the bar must be cycled (the end links must NOT be attached yet). The bar MUST move
freely in the bushings, with only two fingers applying force. If the bar is
tighter than this, the brackets must be loosened and a flat washer placed between
the bracket tab and the unibody (frame), with the mounting bolt going through the
washer. Retighten and test it again with two fingers, and shim until the bar
moves freely. If it binds in the bushings, too much load goes into the brackets.
If the bar binds, it also will be noisy and make bushing squeeks because
over-compressing the bushings forces the lube out, and the bushing runs dry
(noisy).
3) The end link length and end link spacers must be correct for the chosen ride
height, or the bar MAY contact the control arm. This needs to be checked as well,
and adjusted. If the bar contacts any other link, a bind results, and the load is
forced to the bushing brackets. Check this at ride height with the vehicle
supported by the tires (the suspension must loaded).
Best Regards,
Jeff
#683
2) After the bar is mounted to the chassis, in lubricated bushings and tightened,
the bar must be cycled (the end links must NOT be attached yet). The bar MUST move
freely in the bushings, with only two fingers applying force. If the bar is
tighter than this, the brackets must be loosened and a flat washer placed between
the bracket tab and the unibody (frame), with the mounting bolt going through the
washer. Retighten and test it again with two fingers, and shim until the bar
moves freely. If it binds in the bushings, too much load goes into the brackets.
If the bar binds, it also will be noisy and make bushing squeeks because
over-compressing the bushings forces the lube out, and the bushing runs dry
(noisy).
the bar must be cycled (the end links must NOT be attached yet). The bar MUST move
freely in the bushings, with only two fingers applying force. If the bar is
tighter than this, the brackets must be loosened and a flat washer placed between
the bracket tab and the unibody (frame), with the mounting bolt going through the
washer. Retighten and test it again with two fingers, and shim until the bar
moves freely. If it binds in the bushings, too much load goes into the brackets.
If the bar binds, it also will be noisy and make bushing squeeks because
over-compressing the bushings forces the lube out, and the bushing runs dry
(noisy).
#684
not sure if i did that the first time, but i know i did the install right the second time, holding up so far and no complaints, but im still inspecting it daily for my own peace of mind
#685
2) After the bar is mounted to the chassis, in lubricated bushings and tightened,
the bar must be cycled (the end links must NOT be attached yet). The bar MUST move
freely in the bushings, with only two fingers applying force. If the bar is
tighter than this, the brackets must be loosened and a flat washer placed between
the bracket tab and the unibody (frame), with the mounting bolt going through the
washer. Retighten and test it again with two fingers, and shim until the bar
moves freely. If it binds in the bushings, too much load goes into the brackets.
If the bar binds, it also will be noisy and make bushing squeeks because
over-compressing the bushings forces the lube out, and the bushing runs dry
(noisy).
Also, am I reading correctly that if the bar does not sqeak, the bar is not binding? Therefore the installation was probably done correctly, and the washers don't have to be added?
#687
#689
Probably not...
I realized the noises will always be there. Very noisy (race) endlinks. I also found the bushings need to be re-lubed frequently. I think the sound/chatter comes from the ball/joint (mine has a little play) and bolt since it fits a bit loose inside the metal bushing and endlink... I'm on the medium setting and will run it this way until something breaks.
I realized the noises will always be there. Very noisy (race) endlinks. I also found the bushings need to be re-lubed frequently. I think the sound/chatter comes from the ball/joint (mine has a little play) and bolt since it fits a bit loose inside the metal bushing and endlink... I'm on the medium setting and will run it this way until something breaks.
#690
@SR059
did you notice any difference in handling? if i remember right, these endlinks were designed for these specific sway bars..? when i had mine, no matter how much or what kind of lube i used on those damn bushings and every contact point, this sway bar always squeaked. plus baltimore roads make it that more of an unpleasant experience, even when set on the lowest setting =/
although, i do miss the solid feeling of cutting through corners without a sweat!
did you notice any difference in handling? if i remember right, these endlinks were designed for these specific sway bars..? when i had mine, no matter how much or what kind of lube i used on those damn bushings and every contact point, this sway bar always squeaked. plus baltimore roads make it that more of an unpleasant experience, even when set on the lowest setting =/
although, i do miss the solid feeling of cutting through corners without a sweat!
#691
@SR059
did you notice any difference in handling? if i remember right, these endlinks were designed for these specific sway bars..? when i had mine, no matter how much or what kind of lube i used on those damn bushings and every contact point, this sway bar always squeaked. plus baltimore roads make it that more of an unpleasant experience, even when set on the lowest setting =/
although, i do miss the solid feeling of cutting through corners without a sweat!
did you notice any difference in handling? if i remember right, these endlinks were designed for these specific sway bars..? when i had mine, no matter how much or what kind of lube i used on those damn bushings and every contact point, this sway bar always squeaked. plus baltimore roads make it that more of an unpleasant experience, even when set on the lowest setting =/
although, i do miss the solid feeling of cutting through corners without a sweat!
#692
Just lube the heim ends. Move them around in your hand and wipe the exposed portion of the ball with white lithium grease. They will stop squeaking and be quiet as a mouse. Mine started to squeak a bit this spring, but they needed to be lubed.
I just switched to using white teflon plumbers tape on my sway instead of regreasing this spring. A lot of people have used it for years and have found it outlasted grease by large amount. If it wears out faster, no big deal... just try the yellow gas pipe plumbers tape (its thicker) or just go back to greasing them.
I just switched to using white teflon plumbers tape on my sway instead of regreasing this spring. A lot of people have used it for years and have found it outlasted grease by large amount. If it wears out faster, no big deal... just try the yellow gas pipe plumbers tape (its thicker) or just go back to greasing them.
#693
Just lube the heim ends. Move them around in your hand and wipe the exposed portion of the ball with white lithium grease. They will stop squeaking and be quiet as a mouse. Mine started to squeak a bit this spring, but they needed to be lubed.
I just switched to using white teflon plumbers tape on my sway instead of regreasing this spring. A lot of people have used it for years and have found it outlasted grease by large amount. If it wears out faster, no big deal... just try the yellow gas pipe plumbers tape (its thicker) or just go back to greasing them.
I just switched to using white teflon plumbers tape on my sway instead of regreasing this spring. A lot of people have used it for years and have found it outlasted grease by large amount. If it wears out faster, no big deal... just try the yellow gas pipe plumbers tape (its thicker) or just go back to greasing them.
#696
#697
#699
You can likely still get just about any size you want through Progress if you ask them for it and pay them to make it. But they did not make an off the shelf 25mm bar before this came out (for the tC). Their off the shelf unit for this car was about the same size and stiffness as a TRD bar I believe, only with one more adjustment hole.
#700
You can likely still get just about any size you want through Progress if you ask them for it and pay them to make it. But they did not make an off the shelf 25mm bar before this came out (for the tC). Their off the shelf unit for this car was about the same size and stiffness as a TRD bar I believe, only with one more adjustment hole.
Progress usually wants BIG $ for a single 25mm bar OR large quanties to make it.
If there is enough demand, we can re-run another batch of 25mm.