E-brake light comes on periodically when handle is down..
#1
E-brake light comes on periodically when handle is down..
Has anyone else had this problem? Recently when i disengage my e-brake, the light will still stay on, but if I push down the release button a couple times, then the light will turn off. I'm thinking maybe its the sensor, but I'm not entirely sure what it is. Any suggestions on what it could be?
#2
chances are there's a lose connection somewhere (either the sensor or at the button of your e-brake) if you have to press the button a couple times im assuming it's not disengaging the wire from the brake. try pulling up the console around the e-brake and making sure everything is tight/connected
#3
^^ Yea i'm gonna check that tomorrow, if anything, it could be the ground wire.
on a side note, a bit OT, but I see your from South Pas, did you happen to go to SPHS? Do you know either Tiffany or Stephanie Kuo?
on a side note, a bit OT, but I see your from South Pas, did you happen to go to SPHS? Do you know either Tiffany or Stephanie Kuo?
#9
if you want to look for yourself, just pull up console around the e-brake (never had a tC so im not too sure but it should all come off as one unit) you'll see the wire harness right away because it will be trailing the e-brake lines/e-brake. if youre still under warranty it'll be easier to take it to your dealer because they'll do all the dirty work . if you have wires touching then it could be as easy as resealing the wires. if its loose, they'll find out why, reconnect it, and make sure its snug.
#10
Mine's occasionally coming on as well.
It means it's time to change your brake pads. As brakes wear, the amount of "volume" in the hydraulic areas (containing brake fluid) expand slightly, leading to reduced pressure. Therefore, your car believes it's low on brake fluid.
If you're at 40-50k, depending on how you drive, then this is much more likely the case, over a broken sensor.
It means it's time to change your brake pads. As brakes wear, the amount of "volume" in the hydraulic areas (containing brake fluid) expand slightly, leading to reduced pressure. Therefore, your car believes it's low on brake fluid.
If you're at 40-50k, depending on how you drive, then this is much more likely the case, over a broken sensor.
#15
check brake pad wear and see if they need to be replaced. if they do, replace them and then check fluid level. top off if needed.
DO NOT top off before replacing pads as you will overflow when you compress the calipers to place new pads in.
brake fluid and paint do not play well.
DO NOT top off before replacing pads as you will overflow when you compress the calipers to place new pads in.
brake fluid and paint do not play well.
#16
I have the same problem where my brake light comes on when i accelerate from a stopped position. I have about 48,000 miles on my tC.
I took my car to the dealership and they are telling me the brakes are fine. In fact they are saying I still have at least 8/32 left on the brakes...which I think is really good for having almost 50,000 miles. Anyways, they said the brakes are fine but the brake light is still coming on when I accelerate from a stop and the e-brake is down.
Any ideas?
I took my car to the dealership and they are telling me the brakes are fine. In fact they are saying I still have at least 8/32 left on the brakes...which I think is really good for having almost 50,000 miles. Anyways, they said the brakes are fine but the brake light is still coming on when I accelerate from a stop and the e-brake is down.
Any ideas?
#17
have you taken a look at your fluid level? whats the temp in your area? below freezing most of the time?
heres a little bit of reading material:
The "brake" warning light illuminates to tell you there's a problem with the hydraulic braking system -- which could obviously affect your safety and the safety of your passengers.
The red warning light -- not to be confused with the "ABS"/antilock-brake warning light -- will illuminate under any of these conditions:
• Low brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder.
• A loss or imbalance of hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder.
• The parking brake cable or mechanism fails to fully release.
The fact that this occurs only in cold weather could point to a sticky parking brake cable that doesn't fully release the parking brake mechanism when you pull the release handle or lower the parking brake lever. Is there any correlation to applying/releasing the parking brake? Do you use the parking brake? Remember the rule in Minnesota: Either use the parking brake every time you park the vehicle, or don't use it at all. Road salt can corrode and stick the cable or mechanism unless you "exercise" it every day.
The other cold weather issue might be moisture buildup in the brake fluid that is freezing. Your vehicle is eight years old, and if the brake fluid has not been flushed or changed since the car was new, there's little question that the glycol-based hydraulic fluid, because of its hydroscopic nature, has absorbed a small percentage of moisture from the atmosphere.
If this moisture is freezing, it may be preventing the system from developing equal hydraulic pressure in both halves of the dual master cylinder system, thus creating a pressure imbalance -- at least momentarily -- that triggers the warning light. I believe you should have the brake system flushed and bled to exchange 100 percent of the brake fluid for new, clean fluid.
This will flush out any moisture in the system, which hopefully will eliminate the warning light coming on. It will also reduce the potential for corrosion and failure of expensive brake components such as calipers, master cylinders and ABS hydraulic units. I suggest semiannual brake fluid exchanges as "routine maintenance."
heres a little bit of reading material:
The "brake" warning light illuminates to tell you there's a problem with the hydraulic braking system -- which could obviously affect your safety and the safety of your passengers.
The red warning light -- not to be confused with the "ABS"/antilock-brake warning light -- will illuminate under any of these conditions:
• Low brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder.
• A loss or imbalance of hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder.
• The parking brake cable or mechanism fails to fully release.
The fact that this occurs only in cold weather could point to a sticky parking brake cable that doesn't fully release the parking brake mechanism when you pull the release handle or lower the parking brake lever. Is there any correlation to applying/releasing the parking brake? Do you use the parking brake? Remember the rule in Minnesota: Either use the parking brake every time you park the vehicle, or don't use it at all. Road salt can corrode and stick the cable or mechanism unless you "exercise" it every day.
The other cold weather issue might be moisture buildup in the brake fluid that is freezing. Your vehicle is eight years old, and if the brake fluid has not been flushed or changed since the car was new, there's little question that the glycol-based hydraulic fluid, because of its hydroscopic nature, has absorbed a small percentage of moisture from the atmosphere.
If this moisture is freezing, it may be preventing the system from developing equal hydraulic pressure in both halves of the dual master cylinder system, thus creating a pressure imbalance -- at least momentarily -- that triggers the warning light. I believe you should have the brake system flushed and bled to exchange 100 percent of the brake fluid for new, clean fluid.
This will flush out any moisture in the system, which hopefully will eliminate the warning light coming on. It will also reduce the potential for corrosion and failure of expensive brake components such as calipers, master cylinders and ABS hydraulic units. I suggest semiannual brake fluid exchanges as "routine maintenance."
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