Hotchkis Springs
#24
sweet!!! FINALLY a decent view of these springs... i really think Hotchkis got it right by lowering the rear a bit more than the front to even the car out.. I'm so buying these. Do the 18's rub at all? Does the car feel "too low"- like it's slammed? It doesn't look super low.. just really, really nice but I know how things can look a lot lower in person.
#25
in person, it looks low but not slammed. No rubbing whatsoever. Not even over big bumps or speed bumps.
As for the ride:
First, the ride is exactly what I'd hoped for and a bit more. I have not been in any other lowered tCs, so I can only comment on my ride in comparison with stock. The car is more planted and less apt to pogo and hunt over bumps. The car now stays very flat through corners without any understeer.
The day I installed the springs I also installed the rear anti-roll bar, setting it to the middle to complement the stock front. The difference was dramatic enough to cause me to wonder whether I would need the Hotchkis front bar. Yesterday, I installed the front (a real PITA as has been stated), and it was definitely worth it.
With the Hotchkis rear and factory front, the understeer was gone, but the front would still pogo and wander a bit, though less than it did with the stock springs. Now, with the Hotchkis front and rear, the car is locked down and sticks like glue (the 225 40 18 Pirelli P-Zero Neros now work like they should).
The ride is better than stock; it's not bumpy or bouncy; it's surefooted. Certainly, it's also a little less cushy, but no less smooth.
IMO, Hotchkis is right on the money with this combination of stiffer, shorter, linear springs, and lighter weght, much stiffer anti-roll bars. At each stage, the car got better. I would be shocked if skid-pad performance has not improved by at least .1 g.
Finally, after testing the car with all three rear settings while maintaining the race setting in the front, I have concluded that the best results are obtained by setting both bars on the stiffest setting and (for those with 18s and the Pirellis) adding 3-4 PSI to the rear tires.
Highly recommended.
Install notes: (1) it's been mentioned before, but I'll say it again: the slotted bushing brackets must be installed on the rear bar. (2) The front bar install requires a lot of patience, time and is best done by two people or with the aid of a good jack. I don't care how good you are, allocate 3-5 hrs or more for the front bar. (3) The instructions are vague, so call Wes at Hotchkis if your not sure.
As for the ride:
First, the ride is exactly what I'd hoped for and a bit more. I have not been in any other lowered tCs, so I can only comment on my ride in comparison with stock. The car is more planted and less apt to pogo and hunt over bumps. The car now stays very flat through corners without any understeer.
The day I installed the springs I also installed the rear anti-roll bar, setting it to the middle to complement the stock front. The difference was dramatic enough to cause me to wonder whether I would need the Hotchkis front bar. Yesterday, I installed the front (a real PITA as has been stated), and it was definitely worth it.
With the Hotchkis rear and factory front, the understeer was gone, but the front would still pogo and wander a bit, though less than it did with the stock springs. Now, with the Hotchkis front and rear, the car is locked down and sticks like glue (the 225 40 18 Pirelli P-Zero Neros now work like they should).
The ride is better than stock; it's not bumpy or bouncy; it's surefooted. Certainly, it's also a little less cushy, but no less smooth.
IMO, Hotchkis is right on the money with this combination of stiffer, shorter, linear springs, and lighter weght, much stiffer anti-roll bars. At each stage, the car got better. I would be shocked if skid-pad performance has not improved by at least .1 g.
Finally, after testing the car with all three rear settings while maintaining the race setting in the front, I have concluded that the best results are obtained by setting both bars on the stiffest setting and (for those with 18s and the Pirellis) adding 3-4 PSI to the rear tires.
Highly recommended.
Install notes: (1) it's been mentioned before, but I'll say it again: the slotted bushing brackets must be installed on the rear bar. (2) The front bar install requires a lot of patience, time and is best done by two people or with the aid of a good jack. I don't care how good you are, allocate 3-5 hrs or more for the front bar. (3) The instructions are vague, so call Wes at Hotchkis if your not sure.
#26
word. i was thinking of just getting the Hotchkis Stage 1 TVS system.. that comes with the springs and both sway bars. would you know by any chance if the springs that come with that setup are the same drop say if you just bought the Hotchkis springs by themselves?
edit: by the way thanks for that insightful writeup; you've pretty much convinced me to go Hotchkis all the way
edit: by the way thanks for that insightful writeup; you've pretty much convinced me to go Hotchkis all the way
#28
continued--got cut off for some reason
...price. So, the Stage 1 TVS is identical to the bars and springs. Just get the combination that works out to be the least expensive. For me, it was the springs and bars seperately from Sparks, because they had free shipping on the springs. Besides, Ken is nice, helpful and extremely reliable.
When you get them, let me know. I'll be happy to help you with any questions that might come up during install.
Greg
...price. So, the Stage 1 TVS is identical to the bars and springs. Just get the combination that works out to be the least expensive. For me, it was the springs and bars seperately from Sparks, because they had free shipping on the springs. Besides, Ken is nice, helpful and extremely reliable.
When you get them, let me know. I'll be happy to help you with any questions that might come up during install.
Greg
#31
Damn, I knew I should have just gone with the full set instead of just getting the sways. That ish looks TIGHT! Oh well. I'm going to wait till after I get some 18s on. By the time I can afford them (after exhaust, intake, audio... ), if I dont' like the way the TRDs look with the 18s, I'll probably need new springs anyway!
#32
Originally Posted by RS1.0#1188
continued--got cut off for some reason
...price. So, the Stage 1 TVS is identical to the bars and springs. Just get the combination that works out to be the least expensive. For me, it was the springs and bars seperately from Sparks, because they had free shipping on the springs. Besides, Ken is nice, helpful and extremely reliable.
When you get them, let me know. I'll be happy to help you with any questions that might come up during install.
Greg
...price. So, the Stage 1 TVS is identical to the bars and springs. Just get the combination that works out to be the least expensive. For me, it was the springs and bars seperately from Sparks, because they had free shipping on the springs. Besides, Ken is nice, helpful and extremely reliable.
When you get them, let me know. I'll be happy to help you with any questions that might come up during install.
Greg
#33
I got them for something like $419 plus shipping (I think). Though, it could've been $429. Be sure to check the shipping charges and whether the stuff is in stock before ordering. When I checked, McGeorge did not have them in stock and HopUp Racing said they had them for a ridiculously low price ($375, I think). But, they wanted to charge $66 to ship, and I did not get the feeling that they really had them. Anyway, I went with Sparks for fair shipping charges and Ken's reliability.
#34
I checked the sites. www.trdsparks.com has something called the Hotchkis Sway Bars and Lowering Springs Special for $419 plus shipping. Call ken and remind him that they also have the springs on special with free shipping. Then ask that he sell you the $419 special above, but only charge you for shipping on the anti-roll bars. You should get out for around $445 shipped that way.
#35
Originally Posted by smash
I know that English does-- he was going to send me some pics so I'll post em up here if i ever get them. I've been trying to find a picture of the Hotchkis springs installed on the tC as well.. other than the ones provided by the manufacturer which don't give you a very good idea of what the drop looks like overall.
Come on people! there's gotta be more than like 1 person on here who has these....
Come on people! there's gotta be more than like 1 person on here who has these....
#39
oh that was the other thing i meant to ask.. do you still have your stock shocks on there? or did you go aftermarket? i wondered if TRD shocks would work with the Hotchkis springs.. i know the new Koni's coming out won't because I read you're not supposed to use them with springs that drop the car more than 1.5 inches..
#40
I'm still using the stock shocks and struts. They seem to work very well. If/when I have a problem, I'll probably switch them for the TRDs/Konis or some other better shock.
As far as the Koni spec, I wouldn't worry about it too much. First, the drop with the Hotchkis springs is only +.2'' over spec on the front and +.4'' on the rear, which really isn't a lot, especially because the manufacturers of the springs and shocks must design for a certain amount of variation/slop. Also, unlike the TRD or Eibach (don't know about Tein), the Hotchkis springs are linear--they really shouldn't put anywhere near as much stress on the shocks/struts as progressive springs.
As far as the Koni spec, I wouldn't worry about it too much. First, the drop with the Hotchkis springs is only +.2'' over spec on the front and +.4'' on the rear, which really isn't a lot, especially because the manufacturers of the springs and shocks must design for a certain amount of variation/slop. Also, unlike the TRD or Eibach (don't know about Tein), the Hotchkis springs are linear--they really shouldn't put anywhere near as much stress on the shocks/struts as progressive springs.