just figured id post a pic proving that the ingalls stiffy works perfectly fine with the DC-Sports strut bar. i know people constanly ask the question. there is still plenty of thread left.

 

Yep, just make sure not to lay down too much dynamat (your layer is fairly thin). Some people overdo the dynamat and THAT is when its not doable.

 

i think i used 3 layers. the dynamat compresses a lot when you bolt down the damper bracket.

 

great how to do

 

What a joke. I retire myself from this thread. Happy damping.

 

 

Tcguy85, did you have to completely remove the windshield wiper and guard?

 

No you don't have to remove the windshield wiper at all. As for the guard, just remove the two tab thingies and lift it up and you're good.

 

correct, i did not remove it, just undid the little plastic clip things and worked it on. i did have to loosen the 3rd strut bolt to drop the strut down a hair on the left side of the car to get it to go on but no big deal. i don't plan on taking it back off at anytime.

 

Why not remove the wiper cowl/wipers? It takes 2 seconds, is easy as can be, and make life soooo much easier for installing the bracket. There is no reason to leave it on, it just makes life difficult. Its like trying to put on shifter cable bushings w/o removing the stock air box. Its 3 bolts for goodness sake and takes all of 25 seconds!

 

I didn't remove it cause it didn't cause a problem for me. I just lifted the guard unbolted and slid the bracket on and bolt back. It didn't make anything harder to do.

 

it didn't make it harder to do at all, and i also didn't remove my airbox when i did my shifter cable bushings either. there was no reason to remove anything on either job. why make more work for ourselves.

 

Ok, thanks. I was just wondering for future projects. Thanks guys for your input.

 

no need to remove the wiper and cowl..even with a strut bar, everything moves in just fine.

 

hey i was just reading up on the because i might buy one and my friend that it would be a better idea to just go with motor mounts...b/c he had it and he said the mounts are a lot better and i don't have to deal w/ the rattles and poop b/c my car rattles a lot already b/c my idle is off i think and when i put my rear defrost on...i don't want this rattle to get worse...

 

Its not going to make the car rattle if you use dynamat. That eliminates almost all of the vibration. I've never put it on 10mm, but i've tried everything from 12.5mm-15mm and no vibration thats worth speaking of.

 

If you install it the way I did (see video link a few post up) you shouldn't have many rattles if any. You are in the cold so not sure how different it is. If you're that worried about it then get the motor mounts. I haven't seen too much info on the motor mounts or reviews, just a lot of "when I had them on my other car".

 

Urethane motor mounts will cause more vibration to be transmitted to the cabin as well...

 

its not so much vibration, i dont have any at all, and no rattle in 20 degrees...i think the issue is just increased engine noise transferred to the passenger cabin. the rod acts like an amplifier. its a 'hollow' sound if you know what i mean. i am going to play with it a bit.

please don't tell me your cabin sounds exactly the same on acceleration..i will cry. its not god awful.about 30% volume on the radio drowns it out.

do you guys experience that?

 

Mine is pretty loud but I didn't use any dynamat. Personally, I like the sound and when I don't want it to be too intrusive I just ease up on the 'loud' pedal. :D