Just wondering how any strutbar is going to be COSMETIC.
Why would anyone make a COSMETIC strutbar.
And just by the looks of the thickness of this bar, it is very obvious that its not there for cosmetics, and for real handling upgrades and to help with the chassis rigidity.

I dont know if you have read what some people have said about how the rear bar works, but it DOES HELP handling.

 

if you go to my cardomain page and look at my engine bay, you can see that the strut bar LOOKS good there. i felt no improvement in suspension when i installed it. a rear strut bar would be the same... only you would be able to see it unless you take out your floor board, and foam pieces.

 

I had a very good conversation with one of the major suspension companies in existance about this very issue, performance wise that is.

I was really looking over the design of the whole chassis in the rear, mounting points, factory braces, etc. The one thing that struck my the most was the fact that the rear strut mounting points are below level of the crossmember which will carry quite a bit of load in the direction the struts would have an effect on.

I was contemplating building my own unit but just was not convinced it would be needed.

I called the above company and talked to an engineer, one with many years of experience and he stated they do not make one because it is just not needed. They did a test unit and could find no benifit in having it installed so decided to not make them for sale as not in their business plan, to make things of little or no benifit.

They happen to road race a Celica with a similar chassis design and do not use one on it either.

Though your product looks really nice, well made, etc, I just do not think it would serve our members here that are seeking the most out of there cars on what many times is a limited budget to install a part with highly questionable performance gains.

As for why would anyone make a cosmetic strut bar, the import industry is chock full of questionable "performance" parts.

If you have documentation showing real gains from your product please post the info. I would gladly recind my stand on this if you can substantiate the claim that it does work;)

Rick

 

granted we as a race team we seam weld all our race cars for TRUE structural rigidity.

We have also looked under and all around the vehicle and feel that this vehicle does need a rear strutbar.

Everyone has their own opinion on performance and what they feel is needed and not needed.

We made this to be strong and rigid and lightweight.

I guess you will have to wait for other people to purchase this product and try it out and give their own opinions on how they feel the product works for them.

May i suggest you sit in somoenes car that has purchased it in the future, you may change your mind.

I have felt a very big difference in the cars handling when installing this unit, But thats my opinion.

And i only fabricate parts and build parts for real racecars, so maybe my opinion doesnt matter.

Some of my other work.
Titanium parts for and on real track cars.

Titanium Intake pipe for RSX Type-S:



Titanium Race Header for B Series Engine:


Titanium Race Exhaust Manifold for Evolution 8:



Exhaust Manifold Installed :


EVO Sheet Metal INtake Manifold:





Evo Exhaust System:

 

Thanks for the great pics of the really nice parts you build, now I am liking what I see and that you do understand performance.

I too have seam welded a few cars, one heck of alot of effort.

My son and I spent a few days preping our tC for seam welding but I kept having problems with residual caulking, even after wire brushing with an air tool with effecting the gas envelope and making good welds very difficult. I had to try different techniques and more heat than I would normally run. Then the factory undercoat would catch on fire, we would put it out, spray it with a small stream from underneath while I welded, tried scraping it off, etc, etc.

We just did not have enough time to continue with this effort, very frustrating. So we went to plan B, which I was going to do to a degree anyway for audio reasons, we filled the entire structure of the car, frame rails, pillars, etc, etc, with strutural grade eurathane foam, 300 liquid ounces, this ended up taking days, rechecking, refilling some areas to ensure no voids, etc. What an awfull experience but there is a deffinate improvement.

If this was not car to go really fast in and for our audio business it would become fully caged next, just not in the cards for this project so will only have an SCCA approved roll bar with removable diagonal and harness braces.

Since you do seem to be a real performance company you are seriously making me rethink my statements, even though supported by those that are supposed to really know.

I am shutting down our computers for a few days while we relocate to Oregon and so will leave it at this, If I am wrong, I will publicly appologize and endorse your product.
I will send you a PM about this;)

Sincerly,
Rick

 

Rick is awesome, great person to work with.

-taek

 

I want to see an intake manifold for the tC

fabricate that

 

unless somone wants to get a group buy for 50 intake manifolds going, i cant make it.

 

Just took some pics of the strut bar installed in my car, the bar is highly polished and the welds done very nicely as you can tell from the pics I find it funny how some people are making comments on how this bar doesn't work when they themself don't have it or have not tried it, like I posted before you can feel a difference with the rear strut bar esepcially when matched up with the TRD rear sway bar. The bar definatly makes the rear end much more flatter then stock or with just a TRD sway bar BTW I run TRD Shocks,Springs,Sway and the addition of the Monster MotorWorks rear strut bar has helped in cornering





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That's great, nobody is saying this bar isn't rigid.

Based on what? Ok, you feel that the vehicle needs a rear strutbar.... why do you feel this way?

You got that right.

Again, nobody is questioning this.

Experiencing first hand is the best, but we can't deny that sometimes when people do stuff to their cars sometimes the gain is all in their head.

Once again, it is quite apparent that you do quality work. Nobody has said otherwise.


*** I don't want this post to come across as rude, it's just that some people want more proof as to the actual effects of a product rather than "You can feel a difference."

 

Don't want to hijack the thread but i'd be down for a group buy on an intake manifold.

 

for the intake manifold, depends on the price/gains/install (relocating throttle lines and/or tb)

i would like to see a group buy on the rear strut bars

 

We can do a group buy.
I have about 25 of them made right now.

The intake manifold would keep all stock bolt locations and vaccum port locations.

On the evo intake manifold we increased 65% of flow.
Were going to dyno it in the next week or so.
I have seen simular manifolds which are smaller in the plenum have made about 45hp at the wheels on " TURBO" applications. So we can expect the same if not more.

But as for a NA application i can only expect 8-12hp from an intake manifold depending on the configuration and how much the OEM is restricting in airflow.

Just as the Integra intake manifolds make about the same power on the dyno.

I think an sheet metal intake manifold would go for about $650-700. But higher gains will be acheived with this intake manifold for turbo TC's.

 

setup a group buy for the rear strut bar


as far as the intake manifold, it's a prerequisite for the big boost guys to have a new intake manifold. it's been proven that the stock intake manifold is junk and can't hold much manifold pressure.

 

IM not able to post in the classifieds section to get a group buy going.
SO anyone who wants to buy the rear bars are going to have to PM me.
Retail is $175 + $25 Shipping
.
Im willing to do them for $165 shipped. ( UPS GROUND with TRACKING NUMBERS EMAILED TO YOU )

ALso the Radiator Diverter plate is Retail of $75 + $25 Shipping.
Im GBing them for $75 Shipped

 

pm replied

 

Will this group buy still be valid on August 5th? I'll definitely pick one up then if I can still get it for $75 shipped.

 

Just to let you know it's not $75 it's $165.

 

Oh crap that was for the diversion plate, my bad. $165? Maybe later.

 

how much will i have to shave off of the foam inserts? I'm installing my carputer/amp setup right now and don't want to undo it all once I get my bar.