My tC TRD lower springs & sway bar INSTALL w Pix
12-10-2004, 08:09 PM
#1
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My tC TRD lower springs & sway bar INSTALL w Pix
Here is how I installed my Scion tC TRD lowering springs and TRD sway bar. Disclaimer: This is not a “How To” post, therefore I do not recommend you do this yourself. I will not be liable for any problems, risk, injury, or damage you encounter if you try to imitate these procedures, which I do not advocate the imitation of the steps. This is just a log of how I performed my installation with pictures. This is also my first post. I don’t check emails or post often, it may take me some time to respond.
The ride is a bit rougher, but the response is much better. The TRD rear sway bar did make a bit of a difference. I really like the low and aggressive stance that the lowering springs give. In fact, it makes me enjoy my car even more. I definitely recommend lowering the car with the TRD lowering springs. Any lower, it may run into camber and tire wear problems. The tires don’t look so puny and narrow from behind after the car was lowered.
I needed some metric rachet wrench and wrench size 10mm to 22mm with a breaker bar. I also used an impact wrench with air compressor which makes the installation much faster. I also made sure I had jack stands with the proper safety jack supports and tire blocks. I also had screw drivers, pliers, and allen wrenches handy. Also, I rented a spring compressor from the local auto parts.
NOTE: on some pictures, the pictures may be of the left or the right side of the car, since I was not intending to take pictures initially. I had to reduce the picture size due to limitations of my account. Some terminology may be incorrect. It took about 5 hours with my brother’s (special thanks to ANT) help. That was a slow and easy pace.
Edit: here are some torque specs from a post by ScionDad. Thanks:
ScionDad
SL Member
St. Louis, MO
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:52 pm Post subject:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
all numbers are listed in ft lbf, unless otherwise noted.
Lug Nuts : 76
Front Struts : center lock nut - 35
top mount - 38
bottom mount - 177
Front Stabalizer Bar : 55
Rear Shocks : center lock nut - 41
top mount - 59
bottom mount - 103
Rear Sway Bar : 32
Exhaust : 32 (every bolt from the manifold back is 32)
Clutch : clutch cover assembly - 14
release fork - 35
transaxle assembly - 'A' bolts - 47
'B' bolts - 34
'C' bolts - 32
Hood : mounting brackets - 10
front catch - 62 in lbf
1. I loosened the top three strut tower bolts. Some people say to remove the windshield wiper and plastic cover, but I was too lazy to do so. I just slid a wrench to work on the inside bolt. (yes, that is a home made intake coupler with a massive K&N filter on you see).
2. After jacking up the car and supporting it properly with support jacks and tire stops for safety, I removed the wheels. Then, I removed the 2 strut bolts and the tie rod bolt. I also removed the bolt that connects the brake line to the strut itself.
3. After that, the whole strut/spring assembly can be removed by taking off the 3 top strut tower bolts from #1 above.
4. I then compressed the spring until it was loose on the strut.
5. Then, I removed the top strut shaft bolt. To access it, I had to pop the plastic cover from the top. I had to hold the strut assembly tightly. When I reassemble, the blue mark on the top plate will point outwards to the side of the car.
6. I removed the top stop plate. Note: there is a square grove on the top plate that aligns with the strut shaft square grove. I had to make sure that it realigns when I reinstalled it.
7. Once the spring and the top assembly are removed, I stuck the TRD spring on to see how it looks. Also, I cut the bump stop in half and only used the top portion to give more shock travel. It is not necessary for me to do this, but since I have done others before, it helps so the shocks don’t bottom out so quickly. If I plan to install 19in rims, I might not do this.
8. Then, I compressed the TRD spring to then reinstall the shock/strut assembly. I took care not to damage the coating on the spring. It is not good for it to peel and rust! Impact wrench is great! I had to make sure that the spring end/tips match the groves on the strut top and bottom plates. Also, I had to make sure that the square grove of the top plate aligns with the square grove of the strut shaft. If I had TRD struts/shocks, I would install it here. But since I didn’t want an even rougher ride, I just installed the stock strut/shock.
9. I reinstalled the strut assembly with the TRD springs. I had to make sure all the bolts are tightened to specifications: the strut 2 bolts, the tie rod bolt, the brake line attachment bolt, and the 3 top strut tower bolts. The wheel was reinstalled and the other side springs were installed.
MY REAR LOWERING SPRING AND REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLATION
10. As for the rear spring assembly, I had to remove some interior carpet, foam containers, plastic cross-member, etc. in order to access the top 3 strut bolts. Here, I removed the plastic retainer bolt (the plastic piece pointing up) to remove the plastic cross-member piece. To remove the plastic cross-member, I gave it a strong yank and it came off of its pin retainers.
11. Pieces removed.
12. Then I loosened the 2 visible top strut bolts. I had to use a breaker bar to help me loosen the bolts. I did both sides at once since I was going to jack up both sides to save some time.
13. The third bolt took some patience. I also used a breaker bar to help loosen the bolt. I did not remove all the carpet because I was lazy, you could say. Some say it is good to remove the side wall carpet. I believe in minimal work and damage to other interior parts=)
14. Then, I jacked up both sides of the car since I had to jacks and proper support and tire stops for safety purposes. Of course, I had to remove the wheels. Next, I removed the lower strut bolt. It is extremely tough to remove, so I used a breaker bar. Once removed, I then removed the 3 top strut bolts and took the strut/spring assembly out. It took some maneuvering. I had to remove the speed sensor plug just to make sure I don’t break the cable while trying to maneuver and remove the strut/spring assembly. I don’t have a picture of it, sorry, but it is easily seen.
15. Side track: I removed the sway bar bolt to prepare for the sway bar installation and to make it easier to access the lower strut bolt.
16. Side track: Since I was going to install the TRD rear sway bar, I also removed the main two sway bar bolts that hold the sway bar couplers. Then, I just carefully pulled the old stock sway bar out towards the muffler piping side. This was a puzzle to pull out.
17. Here is what the strut/spring assembly looks like. I am also demonstrating that the alignment of the top assembly must be reinstalled to the lower assembly with exactness. I just took a ruler and marked the top part with a spot on the lower assembly. From my middle finger to my thumb, there is a slight offset that has to be kept the same when reinstalling. This is important so that when I reinstalled the assembly onto the car, I wouldn’t have to shift the springs back and forth to align the spring end/tips onto the proper place/grove on the top plates and the lower plates of the strut.
18. Next, I compressed the original spring until loosened and removed the top assembly of the strut. I had to use the Allen wrench to hold the strut shaft and a wrench to remove the top bolt.
19. Then I reinstalled exactly as how I removed the rear strut/spring assembly with the TRD springs. Essentially, compress the TRD springs and reassembled the strut parts. I did not cut the bump stop on the rear assembly. Note the height and thickness difference of the TRD springs vs stock springs.
20. Next, I reinstalled the lower and top 3 strut bolts. I loosely screw on the top 3 bolts and then align the lower bolt to the body. I had to make sure it was aligned and it took some shifting. I tightened to spec’s all bolts.
21. Side track: I installed the TRD rear sway bar main coupler bolts on both sides after maneuvering the TRD sway bar back into position. The coupler was smeared with the included grease for movement. Then, I tightened the sway bar bolts to the outside hole for street ride. The inside holes are for race, rougher ride.
22. Here are some before and after pictures. It looks a lot better now since the TRD springs have settled. The after picture was right after and is not so good. It looks a lot better in person, though!
You can also view slightly large pictures at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chungsterly/my_photos
Thanks for your help on posting the pix guys.
What do you guys think about the info? Total price was $195 with shipping included already for the TRD springs and TRD sway bar.
The ride is a bit rougher, but the response is much better. The TRD rear sway bar did make a bit of a difference. I really like the low and aggressive stance that the lowering springs give. In fact, it makes me enjoy my car even more. I definitely recommend lowering the car with the TRD lowering springs. Any lower, it may run into camber and tire wear problems. The tires don’t look so puny and narrow from behind after the car was lowered.
I needed some metric rachet wrench and wrench size 10mm to 22mm with a breaker bar. I also used an impact wrench with air compressor which makes the installation much faster. I also made sure I had jack stands with the proper safety jack supports and tire blocks. I also had screw drivers, pliers, and allen wrenches handy. Also, I rented a spring compressor from the local auto parts.
NOTE: on some pictures, the pictures may be of the left or the right side of the car, since I was not intending to take pictures initially. I had to reduce the picture size due to limitations of my account. Some terminology may be incorrect. It took about 5 hours with my brother’s (special thanks to ANT) help. That was a slow and easy pace.
Edit: here are some torque specs from a post by ScionDad. Thanks:
ScionDad
SL Member
St. Louis, MO
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:52 pm Post subject:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
all numbers are listed in ft lbf, unless otherwise noted.
Lug Nuts : 76
Front Struts : center lock nut - 35
top mount - 38
bottom mount - 177
Front Stabalizer Bar : 55
Rear Shocks : center lock nut - 41
top mount - 59
bottom mount - 103
Rear Sway Bar : 32
Exhaust : 32 (every bolt from the manifold back is 32)
Clutch : clutch cover assembly - 14
release fork - 35
transaxle assembly - 'A' bolts - 47
'B' bolts - 34
'C' bolts - 32
Hood : mounting brackets - 10
front catch - 62 in lbf
1. I loosened the top three strut tower bolts. Some people say to remove the windshield wiper and plastic cover, but I was too lazy to do so. I just slid a wrench to work on the inside bolt. (yes, that is a home made intake coupler with a massive K&N filter on you see).
2. After jacking up the car and supporting it properly with support jacks and tire stops for safety, I removed the wheels. Then, I removed the 2 strut bolts and the tie rod bolt. I also removed the bolt that connects the brake line to the strut itself.
3. After that, the whole strut/spring assembly can be removed by taking off the 3 top strut tower bolts from #1 above.
4. I then compressed the spring until it was loose on the strut.
5. Then, I removed the top strut shaft bolt. To access it, I had to pop the plastic cover from the top. I had to hold the strut assembly tightly. When I reassemble, the blue mark on the top plate will point outwards to the side of the car.
6. I removed the top stop plate. Note: there is a square grove on the top plate that aligns with the strut shaft square grove. I had to make sure that it realigns when I reinstalled it.
7. Once the spring and the top assembly are removed, I stuck the TRD spring on to see how it looks. Also, I cut the bump stop in half and only used the top portion to give more shock travel. It is not necessary for me to do this, but since I have done others before, it helps so the shocks don’t bottom out so quickly. If I plan to install 19in rims, I might not do this.
8. Then, I compressed the TRD spring to then reinstall the shock/strut assembly. I took care not to damage the coating on the spring. It is not good for it to peel and rust! Impact wrench is great! I had to make sure that the spring end/tips match the groves on the strut top and bottom plates. Also, I had to make sure that the square grove of the top plate aligns with the square grove of the strut shaft. If I had TRD struts/shocks, I would install it here. But since I didn’t want an even rougher ride, I just installed the stock strut/shock.
9. I reinstalled the strut assembly with the TRD springs. I had to make sure all the bolts are tightened to specifications: the strut 2 bolts, the tie rod bolt, the brake line attachment bolt, and the 3 top strut tower bolts. The wheel was reinstalled and the other side springs were installed.
MY REAR LOWERING SPRING AND REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLATION
10. As for the rear spring assembly, I had to remove some interior carpet, foam containers, plastic cross-member, etc. in order to access the top 3 strut bolts. Here, I removed the plastic retainer bolt (the plastic piece pointing up) to remove the plastic cross-member piece. To remove the plastic cross-member, I gave it a strong yank and it came off of its pin retainers.
11. Pieces removed.
12. Then I loosened the 2 visible top strut bolts. I had to use a breaker bar to help me loosen the bolts. I did both sides at once since I was going to jack up both sides to save some time.
13. The third bolt took some patience. I also used a breaker bar to help loosen the bolt. I did not remove all the carpet because I was lazy, you could say. Some say it is good to remove the side wall carpet. I believe in minimal work and damage to other interior parts=)
14. Then, I jacked up both sides of the car since I had to jacks and proper support and tire stops for safety purposes. Of course, I had to remove the wheels. Next, I removed the lower strut bolt. It is extremely tough to remove, so I used a breaker bar. Once removed, I then removed the 3 top strut bolts and took the strut/spring assembly out. It took some maneuvering. I had to remove the speed sensor plug just to make sure I don’t break the cable while trying to maneuver and remove the strut/spring assembly. I don’t have a picture of it, sorry, but it is easily seen.
15. Side track: I removed the sway bar bolt to prepare for the sway bar installation and to make it easier to access the lower strut bolt.
16. Side track: Since I was going to install the TRD rear sway bar, I also removed the main two sway bar bolts that hold the sway bar couplers. Then, I just carefully pulled the old stock sway bar out towards the muffler piping side. This was a puzzle to pull out.
17. Here is what the strut/spring assembly looks like. I am also demonstrating that the alignment of the top assembly must be reinstalled to the lower assembly with exactness. I just took a ruler and marked the top part with a spot on the lower assembly. From my middle finger to my thumb, there is a slight offset that has to be kept the same when reinstalling. This is important so that when I reinstalled the assembly onto the car, I wouldn’t have to shift the springs back and forth to align the spring end/tips onto the proper place/grove on the top plates and the lower plates of the strut.
18. Next, I compressed the original spring until loosened and removed the top assembly of the strut. I had to use the Allen wrench to hold the strut shaft and a wrench to remove the top bolt.
19. Then I reinstalled exactly as how I removed the rear strut/spring assembly with the TRD springs. Essentially, compress the TRD springs and reassembled the strut parts. I did not cut the bump stop on the rear assembly. Note the height and thickness difference of the TRD springs vs stock springs.
20. Next, I reinstalled the lower and top 3 strut bolts. I loosely screw on the top 3 bolts and then align the lower bolt to the body. I had to make sure it was aligned and it took some shifting. I tightened to spec’s all bolts.
21. Side track: I installed the TRD rear sway bar main coupler bolts on both sides after maneuvering the TRD sway bar back into position. The coupler was smeared with the included grease for movement. Then, I tightened the sway bar bolts to the outside hole for street ride. The inside holes are for race, rougher ride.
22. Here are some before and after pictures. It looks a lot better now since the TRD springs have settled. The after picture was right after and is not so good. It looks a lot better in person, though!
You can also view slightly large pictures at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chungsterly/my_photos
Thanks for your help on posting the pix guys.
What do you guys think about the info? Total price was $195 with shipping included already for the TRD springs and TRD sway bar.
12-11-2004, 04:04 AM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: DFW
Posts: 142
"wow that color is crazy, it looks silver sometimes, its really nice.... im never gonna be able to make up my mind/ about this car, Color wise.....Red/Gray/Light blue.Silver. Ehhh"
Thanks. I was talking to this guy for 10 mins at a parking lot in the afternoon, and he kept thinking it was a silver color like his....until he took off his sunglass
Thanks. I was talking to this guy for 10 mins at a parking lot in the afternoon, and he kept thinking it was a silver color like his....until he took off his sunglass
12-11-2004, 10:55 AM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 70
Hey! My car with TRD springs looks higher than yours. I guess they all vary SLIGHTLY..or maybe not. But anyway, your drop looks good! I'd like to go lower, but I guess i'll play it safe for now ;).
12-12-2004, 07:23 AM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: DFW
Posts: 142
Originally Posted by tChick
Hey! My car with TRD springs looks higher than yours. I guess they all vary SLIGHTLY..or maybe not. But anyway, your drop looks good! I'd like to go lower, but I guess i'll play it safe for now ;).
Since my car was lowered, it gives me the urge to want to race. And since I installed the K&N intake filter, the power sensation is awesome, which makes me want to step on it more! It seems like each time a performance enhancement is installed, I love my car more.I didn't see your car on your profile. I only saw your DC header post but no pix of your car, and some of the last pictures didn't show. Nice post of the headers, though! I wish I could install one too, but I'm saving it for a turbo. but it is tempting...
12-13-2004, 03:32 AM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: DFW
Posts: 142
Re: Very excellent writeup
Originally Posted by 2eZee
I must thank you for taking the time to bother with pics too. Makes a hell of a difference for the timid first timers.
Do you want some money now ?
Do you want some money now ?
.........
I think every install should have pictures
12-13-2004, 02:22 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
Nice job. Looks good.
You know what I would do to improve the tC's handling? Make it go on a diet! It weighs a ton! 2900+ lbs. Not good. If we could take out 400 pounds, then that would shave off .4 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Not only that, but it would handle a lot better too.
I test drove my tC a while back and it's nice and stiff, but the reaction time is huge compared to my 2001 Civic. I would start taking stuff out and seeing how much weight I can shave off.
I bet that there are things in there (brackets, braces, bolts) that can be dealt with. The weight distribution is one thing to consider. I would take off as much as possible from the front to have a better weight distribution.
Hmm...
Looks good.You know what I would do to improve the tC's handling? Make it go on a diet! It weighs a ton! 2900+ lbs. Not good. If we could take out 400 pounds, then that would shave off .4 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Not only that, but it would handle a lot better too.
I test drove my tC a while back and it's nice and stiff, but the reaction time is huge compared to my 2001 Civic. I would start taking stuff out and seeing how much weight I can shave off.
I bet that there are things in there (brackets, braces, bolts) that can be dealt with. The weight distribution is one thing to consider. I would take off as much as possible from the front to have a better weight distribution.
Hmm...
12-13-2004, 05:18 PM
#17
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Scikotics
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Federal Way, WA
Posts: 1,226
Nice pics. Looks sweet though I want a lower drop on mine so I will have to find a different set of springs personally.
Grey: If you can find a good weigh to shed some pounds (pun intended) please let us know........
Grey: If you can find a good weigh to shed some pounds (pun intended) please let us know........
12-13-2004, 05:29 PM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
Yep, will do. I won't have the car 'till Thu. and then I can't really do much to it since I kinda have to hide it from my wife. Then I kinda can't do much to it either 'cause it will be her car, but maybe she'll let me poke around. I'll post up some info. as soon as I see anything interesting. I bet that tC's could easily shed 250 pounds with some drilling (aka swiss cheesing) in the right spots.
12-13-2004, 06:58 PM
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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thanks grey, sheep, and jb.
weigh reduction is a great idea. perhaps the tC will come out with a race version with more hp and weigh reduction. They have so much padding on the car that makes it slightly heavy. But that is why the car is so well built...even to the slightess detail. That's why all the car magazines are writing about it so much. It's quiet, refined, and the value is a plus....Motor trend even included it in the MT car of the year list recently.
As for me, the TRD spring and sway bar is a must after I had it done. It makes a world of difference at a very low price!
weigh reduction is a great idea. perhaps the tC will come out with a race version with more hp and weigh reduction. They have so much padding on the car that makes it slightly heavy. But that is why the car is so well built...even to the slightess detail. That's why all the car magazines are writing about it so much. It's quiet, refined, and the value is a plus....Motor trend even included it in the MT car of the year list recently.
As for me, the TRD spring and sway bar is a must after I had it done. It makes a world of difference at a very low price!