uhhh i can't fit any fingers in my rear
no pun intended

 

yea my rear was like that... but I felt it was not helping me take corners so I brought it up a little bit.. If I still don't get ther handling I want I will keep adjusting it.

 

i think you should have gone with trd springs if you wanted handling

 

when I get off the boat I am going to drop it way more, I have it set pretty much like my s techs, can't wait to not be able to put my fingers in my rear either. then im on to some baller wheels now that I have the budget, no more lame axis decades.

 

sorry but the trd spring didn't give me the handling I wanted... Good .. but not to the point I want.. I would need something adjustable..

 

Whats the consensus on the Raceland Strut bar?

 

its just a strut bar...

 

Picking up some before june ends!

 

I finally got these installed! I love them!!!!

 

 

finally something is wrong with the coils. had this for almost a year now. now my rears are making a lot noise. kinda spring noise. it doesnt feel like my shocks gave up. but everytime i go on the bump or ramp it makes a noise in the rear. never happen to me before

anyone?

 

LoL

 

is it a creaking noise?

 

have you check to see if the top nut it tq down all the way. When I re adjusted mine I noticed the driver side was not down all the way. When I tightened everything to spec all the noise went away.

 

*****, ive been under my car for the past 6 hours trying to get the rear sus bolts loose to no avail, even after PB blasting the crap outta everyone. 4 foot breaker bar didnt help much either. Anyone in the CT area wanna let me borrow their impact gun? lol All I managed to to was get the bolts off my axel back portion of the exhaust, now im running out the mid-pipe. Yummmy. So long story short FML. Any ideas?

 

are you turning the right way.. I have never had trouble taken a bolt off using a breaker bar... and are you using a counter on the other side of the bolt ?

 

Yes I am, it seriously just WILL NOT move. I even resorted to trying to turn the wrench using a floor jack and it proceeded to lift the car right off the floor jacks w/o moving the bolt. I'm outta ideas....

 

Take it to a shop? If it is that difficult to remove, there may be something else wrong.

 

Well I did my installation yesterday and it took about 5 hours even with someone who knew what they were doing.

We were hampered by a few problems. First off was I forgot my jack stands so we had to hold the car up with the jack and then move the arms into place by hand which required a lot of muscle. Second, I entirely forgot to spray any white lithium onto the threads and bolts or put any anti-seize on everything else. I'll see if its possible to do this while these are mounted on the car.

FOR PEOPLE WHO'VE NEVER HAD COILOVERS (LIKE ME)...here are a few notes.

1.) If you plan on adjusting your coils to change with the seasons (higher for winter and snow, lower for summer), there is nearly NO ROOM around the rear coils to move the spanner to adjust them. These coilovers have far too few grooves (total of 5) to grip with the spanner and you often cant get the spanner around far enough to catch the next groove to pull the height adjustment ring around. This is not the case with more expensive coilovers such as Tein Basic's. The front coilovers have more room around them so its easier.

2.) More on adjustment: if you are trying to raise the height on the car, it will be really, really tough. Lowering it is easier, but the higher to raise it, the more you compress the spring. This is where having a spring compresser will make your life easier. Go buy one. They're $40. Saves you hours of grunting and pulling and wrecking your hands on the Raceland's razor sharp spanners.

3.) If you're new to coilovers, these things will feel like a racecar suspension compared to the tC's stockies. However, because of this, in hard cornering, the rear needs either a strut brace or a stiffer sway bar because I can feel the rear wanting to slide out a bit more.

4.) Dont forget to lube everything up just before you tighen it down. White lithium grease and anti-seize are your friends. This will greatly help when you go to adjust these adn they are coated in dirt, grit and other stuff that mucks up screw/bolt/ring threading. (...note..I forgot this step DOH!!)

5.) Tighten everything to spec or tighter. I did and had no clunking, squeaking, or thuds when taking corners hard or braking hard (car remains pretty much level in all situations)

6.) Also for newbs to coilovers: these springs are a lot stiffer than the stock ones. As such, when you hit even little bumps in the road, the car will feel like it hit a rock. From my experience, this is normal, but it will freak you out the first few times you hear it.

7.) Find an empty parking lot and take your car for a hard test drive after you do the install. Turn the car back and forth hard, brake hard, accelerate hard, do combinations of all those. Never know when you might need to avoid a collision for real and hear a 'clunk' as your suspension suddenly shifts and the car reacts unexpectedly. Could be bad news.

8.) Lastly, dont forget an alignment. After my install my car handled great, but also pulled to the right and I felt an odd vibration at high speeds. Get an alignment after every height change. If you do seasonal changes, yes this means two alignments a year. Sucks, but its cheaper than going through tires prematurely.

Okay, yes pics!

So yesterday I got these installed:






this is the front before the lowering:


Here is a rear after lowering:


Here is couple of before/after pairings:

before:


after:


before:


after:

 

To bad we don't live closer to each other.. I would be more then happy to help you out..