Raceland Springs
#1
Raceland Springs
Does anyone sell replacement springs that are stiffer? Also, what is the spring rate on the racelands? I was thinking to get a spring that's about an inch shorter but stiff as hell so i could go lower.
#7
no.
Why do that, as price would probably be 300 (coils) + 100 (springs) at least = 400. Save up a little more and get quality coils. What if you get into an accident from the mix and match springs.. it is going to cost you a lot more in the long run. Listen to all the wise people here, get better coils or stick with the raceland.
Why do that, as price would probably be 300 (coils) + 100 (springs) at least = 400. Save up a little more and get quality coils. What if you get into an accident from the mix and match springs.. it is going to cost you a lot more in the long run. Listen to all the wise people here, get better coils or stick with the raceland.
#10
Learn how horribly large the spring rate tolerance is on cheap springs, and even worse how far off cheap dampers are, that is where the answer lies. When you get really cheap springs, you cant even come close to thinking the 4 springs you get will have matching rates
#12
...You do know that getting stiffer springs without properly revalving the shocks will ruin the suspension even more than Raceland already did from factory right?
Research then buy real coilovers.
Sent from Somewhere using Something.
Research then buy real coilovers.
Sent from Somewhere using Something.
#13
Isn't essentially like putting springs on factory shocks? As in the shock was not made for the spring.
#14
It all depends on how much you go over the range the struts can handle. For example, you can run TRD springs on stock struts without it causing issues. But ... if you had dampers revalved for that rate, they would handle better.
As always, this discussion is skewed depending on how you look at it. A lot of you want to go as low as you can. Going much below 1.4 inches or so of drop is already degrading handling on this car. It throws the rest of the suspension geometry off, and there is nothing you can do to correct that short of moving the attachment points (custom spindles, etc). If you are talking slamming the car, running racelands (known in most car circles they sell to as complete junk), etc, then you are not looking for a car that handles well, you are just looking for looks. And honestly, the car will likely handle much worse than stock.
Racelands use pretty crappy dampers. Running more spring rate will likely kill them pretty soon. Hell, lots of them fail pretty soon with the springs they sell with them to begin with. I think some of the VW guys like racelands, but those circles are plagued with people who care only about dragging frame and spending as little as possible.
And running a shorter spring with a damper not designed for it can also be an issue. If you have racelands, then I recommend (well, I recommend trashing them, but I care way more about making the car turn better than I do about stance) not playing with spring rates and heights.
And as is typical on this forum, when someone wants to do something and people tell them it is a poor choice or a bad product, the "hate" comment comes out. If its true, it isnt hating. Raceland makes el cheapo bargain bin parts for people that want to slam a car for little cash. That is all you can expect out of them. And regardless the manufacturer, you can only change the spring rate on a given coilover so much without starting to cause issues. That is just a matter of physics.
As always, this discussion is skewed depending on how you look at it. A lot of you want to go as low as you can. Going much below 1.4 inches or so of drop is already degrading handling on this car. It throws the rest of the suspension geometry off, and there is nothing you can do to correct that short of moving the attachment points (custom spindles, etc). If you are talking slamming the car, running racelands (known in most car circles they sell to as complete junk), etc, then you are not looking for a car that handles well, you are just looking for looks. And honestly, the car will likely handle much worse than stock.
Racelands use pretty crappy dampers. Running more spring rate will likely kill them pretty soon. Hell, lots of them fail pretty soon with the springs they sell with them to begin with. I think some of the VW guys like racelands, but those circles are plagued with people who care only about dragging frame and spending as little as possible.
And running a shorter spring with a damper not designed for it can also be an issue. If you have racelands, then I recommend (well, I recommend trashing them, but I care way more about making the car turn better than I do about stance) not playing with spring rates and heights.
And as is typical on this forum, when someone wants to do something and people tell them it is a poor choice or a bad product, the "hate" comment comes out. If its true, it isnt hating. Raceland makes el cheapo bargain bin parts for people that want to slam a car for little cash. That is all you can expect out of them. And regardless the manufacturer, you can only change the spring rate on a given coilover so much without starting to cause issues. That is just a matter of physics.
#15
Agree with Engifineer. lol at us hating on some $300 coilovers, we all spent more on a better suited setup for a reason, quality, that is all. Doesn't matter if we're using them for actual Auto-X or other motorsport or getting low, they can handle it, and if need be the companies that sell them offer damper rate matching to whatever spring rates you change to, something I do not see Rokkor/Raceland offering. We're trying to guide you to something more proper and better and seems you don't want to listen, best of luck for what mods you do to your coilovers. For the diameter of the springs it's done by measuring the inner diameter, for the height(length) and spring rate it should be printed on the spring, this should be a start for you.
#16
Funny thing is that the racelands don't even do a great job slamming. I'm hating on you OP, just the brand, I've been down the same road as you. I'd seriously recommend if you want to go low, to look into BC coilovers. For $1000, they will make a coilover that
1. Has a preloaded spring, so when you go low you do not lose shock body travel,
2. they'll let you choose your spring rates, in some applications as high as 22k (highest I've seen, the LBer's "Minty Fresh Z") and
3. will include shortened springs/struts that are purpose built to go low.
B&G and Stance also are ones to look at for going low.
1. Has a preloaded spring, so when you go low you do not lose shock body travel,
2. they'll let you choose your spring rates, in some applications as high as 22k (highest I've seen, the LBer's "Minty Fresh Z") and
3. will include shortened springs/struts that are purpose built to go low.
B&G and Stance also are ones to look at for going low.
#17
You guys are acting like I am unaware that racelands are cheap/lower quality coils. I am well aware of that fact, and I am trying to make them somewhat better without buying new ones as that is in store a bit later down the road, finances don't allow it right now.
Anyway, someone mentioned earlier that racelands (and other lower quality springs) make a high margin of error with their spring rates? Wouldn't getting springs (of a reputable brand) close (or even exact?) to the ones that they advertise improve the ride?
Anyway, someone mentioned earlier that racelands (and other lower quality springs) make a high margin of error with their spring rates? Wouldn't getting springs (of a reputable brand) close (or even exact?) to the ones that they advertise improve the ride?
#18
The spring isnt the problem; problem is the design + how you're using it. You're slammed right? So with the RL's, that means you spin the perches alllll the way down, which then means you are losing a lot of your travel on the strut. So no matter if you get a stiffer spring or not; you still have the problem of the travel in the strut that you have lost. At least thats how I always looked at vs. coilovers that have a preloaded spring with threaded bodies. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
#19
The spring isnt the problem; problem is the design + how you're using it. You're slammed right? So with the RL's, that means you spin the perches alllll the way down, which then means you are losing a lot of your travel on the strut. So no matter if you get a stiffer spring or not; you still have the problem of the travel in the strut that you have lost. At least thats how I always looked at vs. coilovers that have a preloaded spring with threaded bodies. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
#20
well yes, but IMO the loss of travel is the worse problem. Sure you can theoretically get stiffer springs since more or less mostly what you're riding on is the springs (once the struts inevitably blow) but finding a spring that will fit will be the hard part. I'd check out swift. They made the springs for my BC coilovers, send them some measurements and such.