The TRD setup is a good mix of quality street performance and autocross capabilities.

I've autocrossed a customer's car with the TRD springs, shocks, rear sway and stock alignment. It felt like it would benefit from the front and rear Hotchkis sways instead of just the rear TRD and our bushings are definantely a plus.

However you are looking for a drop in lap times you will probably see a bigger drop in by going to one of the full on ST tires first.

 

[quote="Rexpelagi"]Yep. I run them on a set of 17x7 14.5 lb Motegi Track_Lite wheels. I've run the 245/40 17 Hoosiers and the 245/45 17 Kumhos and the both fit. The Hoosiers seem like they were just a little harder to fit.

 

^^ did we change names in his quote?

I really liked the TRDs and TRD rsb for the two seaons I autoxd it. I thought about going to the Hotchkis sways, but the issue there is that you are potentially increasing your inside wheel spin more with that front bar. I ended up getting a deal on a set of slightly used SS-P's this winter so I went that route instead.. depending on the high spring rates for roll reduction. Still have some extra wheel spin though unfortunately.

I would always recommend the TRD setup. Handles well and rides pretty decent on the street. The SS-Ps are much better handling wise.. but you sacrifice a lot more ride quality with them on the street with the pillowball mounts and the high spring rates. If I were just autoxing every now and then (not trying to compete much) I would probably have stuck with my TRDs.

 

sorry. got way to much going on.

The inside wheel spin issue is a PITA.

However, if the swaybars give a higher average corner speed and better response through the slaloms it could make up for the loss of speed coming out turns. Our courses around here unfortunately are shorter and require at lot of speed maintenance. On bigger national style courses, the compromise could swing the other way. Both setups would still require a decent amount of testing to sort out.

I guess the real story is the fact that we have plenty of choices and that's never a bad thing.

 

Watching.

I'm hoping to start Auto-Xing in July (only upcoming event is this Saturday, nothing til July), so I'll definitely be needing some of this info.

 

Its a pricey fix but a Quaife LSD solved my wheel spin issues. With springs and bars you can setup the car to get into the corner hard, but the LSD completes the package by getting you out of the corner just as hard.

 

And puts you into a higher (and thus, less competitive without boost ) class in autox for the tC. That is the problem when talking about autoxing it. The cars mods typically put it into STS, which is heavilly weighted towards mods that cars like the old civic hatches can run. Running mods like the LSD put you into a class where you really need boost to be truly competitive... which then makes you run against even more competitive cars

Honestly, for me I from the thought process of setting the car up the way you like and then just running the class that you end up in. However, I have zero wheel spin issues on the daily drive, even on the twisties when I push the car. The only place I really wish I had the LSD is on the autox courses... and in that case I run into the above.

 

what they don't know won't hurt anyone

 

Its more of what I know. I want to beat someone under equal terms and under the same rules

 

Here is a diagram of my stock tC.
Notice how the roll center stock is -1.2". When I altered the measurements to relfect a 1.5" drop, it lowered the roll center to -5.7". At first glace this would seem like an improvement, but when analyzed properly, it is a huge loss. The roll center and the center of gravity form a "lever" so to speak, so if the CoG was 20" off the ground stock, the ratio would appear as -1.2:20. 20:20 would mean ZERO body roll in theory, but -5.7:18.5 (lowered by 1.5") means more body roll. Using stiffer springs could compensate for this loss, but another remedy I am looking for is a way to lower my lower ball joints. This would raise the roll center an in effect, shorten the "lever".

Just my 2 cents, I am by no means a professional, just a kid with a computer, so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. If anyone knows of an aftermarket lowerball joints, I'd like to hear about them!

 

what program is that ?

 

i believe its called circle track calculator or something, i have it at school for my automotive performance class.

 

if you could snag me a copy of the software that would be wonderful! :p

 

ya that ____ looks tight what school are you going to ?

 

Washtenaw Community College, near Ann Arbor MI

i wish i could guys but it's some huge licensing issue. My school only has one copy. I will find the exact name and see what i can do. I will be modeling the rear suspension next week and probably be making custom ball joints to fix the roll center issue. Maybe i can hook some people up with the design if it works well....

 

what would i have to modify to allow the car to handle as good as it does with a ~1.7" drop when i have it to where it is almost touching the tire....

high spring rates?? Ball joints??

 

Found the software; its called "Circle Track Analyzer" and its pretty pricey. Since it is also a very rare software I wasn't able to find a download for it anywhere (which is a first)

I fail

 

I can probably get the disk or image file if anyone knows how to crack it...

 

I found a torrent, but no seeders OR leechers.

 

lower the center of your ball joint the same as your car. so a new get out the drawing board... I think you'd need to make some serious mods to your car. The best way is to not lower your car.... i think i will just get some stock height springs with a better rate.