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Old 09-14-2011, 12:16 AM
  #21  
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I've had the hotchkis springs and front and rear sways, on the stiffest setting, for about two years now, and I love it, in the mountains I can hang with Z's and the average STI driver.. since I've gotten so used to my setup, I want more, so Im getting the BC Racing coilovers.. and maybe the ingalls 4point strut bar..
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:25 AM
  #22  
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Back off your front sway bar. That fights rotation that the rear helps.
Strut bars are unnecessary. Your strut towers are against the firewall, and shock towers are in the trunk floor. Toyota did a good job on design. Strut bars are for decoration.

Before you buy any coils, find out what rates you're buying so you have something to compare to. A reputable mfr will publish rates. If they dont, I would consider those appearance coil overs.
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mrexotica
Back off your front sway bar. That fights rotation that the rear helps.
Strut bars are unnecessary. Your strut towers are against the firewall, and shock towers are in the trunk floor. Toyota did a good job on design. Strut bars are for decoration.

Before you buy any coils, find out what rates you're buying so you have something to compare to. A reputable mfr will publish rates. If they dont, I would consider those appearance coil overs.

Ok I'll give that a try, and the coils are 30way adjustable with spring rates of 8kg/10kg.. I can get any combination of spring rates for no extra charge..

And btw, I drive hard daily..
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:05 AM
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That sounds promising! 30-way adjustable is probably wrong terminology. They're probably one-way with 30 clicks, or 2-way with 15 each...

I can tell you my autocross setup if you want your car to REALLY handle! (It's surprisingly tolerable on the street...) ;-)
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mrexotica
That sounds promising! 30-way adjustable is probably wrong terminology. They're probably one-way with 30 clicks, or 2-way with 15 each...

I can tell you my autocross setup if you want your car to REALLY handle! (It's surprisingly tolerable on the street...) ;-)
Ll ok thanks on the correction..nd yeah what's ur setup? U drive a tC right?
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:27 AM
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Yup. I race an '06 in Street Touring class.

My current setup:
Hotchkis Sport rear antisway bar, full stiff
Dunlop Star Spec tires on stock wheels
Koni Yellow One-way adjustable strut inserts and rear shocks
Ground Control coil over sleeves
Eibach race coils, 400lb front/ 700lb rear
Muffler delete
Custom intake
Front sway bar disconnected

Got most of it and had it professionally installed at Underground Autosports, a local shop. http://driveunderground.com
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:34 AM
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You took off your front sway bar?
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:35 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mrexotica
Yup. I race an '06 in Street Touring class.

My current setup:
Hotchkis Sport rear antisway bar, full stiff
Dunlop Star Spec tires on stock wheels
Koni Yellow One-way adjustable strut inserts and rear shocks
Ground Control coil over sleeves
Eibach race coils, 400lb front/ 700lb rear
Muffler delete
Custom intake
Front sway bar disconnected

Got most of it and had it professionally installed at Underground Autosports, a local shop. http://driveunderground.com
Holy oversteer Batman!!!
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LETZgoBUDDY
You took off your front sway bar?
Nope. I removed one end link.

I didn't have any oversteer problems, but it puts down power out of turns better.
The only downside: even with 400lb springs, I bottomed out on a bumpy downhill sweeper.

I did it because of advice from someone more experienced that I am. And he was right! I just may replace the cut-down bumpstops with full-length ones...
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:25 AM
  #30  
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ok so what i'm getting from this is that i shouldnt get a sway bar. all i want is for my car to stick in the turns and from what i understand the springs and tires will do a sufficiant job for messin around on back roads and in the mountains, is this correct or am i missing somthing?
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:57 PM
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As long as you have a good rear anti sway bar, and good tires, you'll be fine.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:35 PM
  #32  
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I have Hotchkis front and rear sway bars both are on the hardest setting. I did see big improvements with the new bars i also have raceland coils slammed all the way. To me it still seems like the rear is still loose like the top rear to be exact in corners. Would a C pillar bar help with this? Im going to call it top roll probably not what its really called but i dont now how to explain it.
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:06 AM
  #33  
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All a c-pillar bar will do is use up your trunk space. Strut bars are unnecessary on a tC.
Back off on your front sway bar for rotation.

Also, maximum 2" drop if you want your suspension to do its job properly. You're probably on the bump stops half the time with an extreme drop...
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Old 09-16-2011, 04:22 PM
  #34  
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The C pillar bar will not take up to much space i just want to be able to use my back seat and still have the head rest in the back. And its not a Strut bar its a pillar bar. and i will back off of the front sway bar and bring my car up a little I get scared going over some things i hate it when I bottom out on something makes me wanna cry a little bit lol.

Thanks for your advice
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:28 AM
  #35  
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If you bottom out, your suspension is too low to work properly, and a strut bar isn't going to help.
A friend of mine recently broke off a chunk of his oil pump when he bottomed out just a little too hard...
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