wow, thanks for your quick replies. As we all know, summer is approaching fast, and so far I have no plans. I was going to work on my car over the summer. Technically I was going to do this a while back over winter, but due to communication errors, was not able to proceed. Hopefully over the summer, I will be able to do so. I plan on sound deadning with your stuff (already got a quote) and was wondering how much more this would cost in addition to the sound deadning and if you would post instructions on how to do it. I feel that the car flexs a little to easily. From what I have heard strut bars, don't help out much, so I am looking for an alternative.

 

I would deffinately put on a front strut tower bar but not a rear bar or "brace" a real brace would be an x brace anyway and really not needed.

If you really want to do the foam filling I will write it up for you but you are in for a very nasty job. You have to strip out the whole interior including dash and headliner and mask the whole car and all around where you will be working. This stuff is just plain messy to use and very time consuming and not easy to get all areas filled properly, a few holes have to be drilled into certain voids to get them properly filled as well.

I can get you the materials as a dealer for the products but have to find out the current prices, etc, expect to spend at least $300 but possibly as high as $400 or more.

Not trying to scare you away, just making sure you understand the severity of this job, it is a huge pain in the rear and if not done precisely and carefully can result in alot of wasted effort. I only advise these proceedures to somebody looking for the ultimate extreme edge in handing and deadening which it happens to do both very well.

On another note, if you are looking to just fix a few areas for the severe road noise of a tC, then we can work out something simpler but still messy and time consuming, no way around it.


Rick

 

^^^^he knows his stuff^^^^

he did wedrivescions tC and when i drove WDS car it was amazing how much quiter it was.

 

WDS car was done with our BXT RAAMmat and Ensolite foam, a very indepth job, much easier than using the eurathane foam which is a totally different area at least for the most part. If we did that to his car it would be quieter yet but not as significant a change as the regular matting, etc.

If you only filled the chassis and other areas with foam and did not do the matting or ensolite coverage, the results would not be significant in sound deadening. It is more for an all out project with the main purpose for us on stiffening the chassis for racing, sound deadening was the secondary reaason.

If you want to really go nuts like we have done, you can do the eurathane chassis job, fill some external areas as well and then get ready for even more work. We removed all factory deadening, bonded aluminum channels into the doors and rear sides by the back seat, then added back just enough of our mat to get to the level we needed for our goals, used alot of ensolite and then some 2" accoustical foam as well. Everything possible under the dash, behind all paneles, etc, etc is treated yet done for minimum weight gain.

While the car was apart we removed every excess wire harness, slack in wiring, studs with nothing mounted to them, brackets we could replace with tie wraps, shortened bolts, used smaller outside diameter nuts, on and on and on.

Net result, we only added 10 lbs to the car for deadening but have removed 200 lbs of other weight(includes CF roof, 14.6 lbs race seats, etc.)

Time invested, over 300 hours, whewwwww! And we are not yet totally completed with that aspect of the car.

Rick

 

I would question ya on this one, why put a front strut bar on the tC it wouldn't do all that much since the towers are so close to the firewall as is (course I could be wrong), but again the way the tC is designed the use is somewhat limited.

 

Why question somebody then say you could be wrong?

I do not put parts on my car unless I have good reason, I take parts off as much as I can to save weight to make it faster.

If we did not need one, it would not be on there, period.

Others have different veiwpoints about what performance is and/or looks like. Not many have the nearly 40 years of experience that I have in modding imports to make them weight less and be faster;)

Rick

 

nice instructions

 

So basically you didn't answer my question and I should look elsewhere, gotcha.

 

If you could write instructions with pictures, I would greatly appreciate it. also should I still do the sound deadning (raammat bxt) with this foam? Or is it just a waste.

 

If you cannot find the answer in my response then I suggest you do look elsewhere. Notice the smilies and then the wink at the end, those are to mean I am smiling and winking, meaning I am not being a jackass, I am giving you an answer in a more fun way and also letting you know I have a bit of understanding of what I do. I do not know all there is to know but I do know alot more than most yet I learn all the time because I have an open mind about such things.

Here you go, in plain english, no goofing around

The strut towers are not that well attached to the firewall/cowl area. For most people they can be left off but it you are serious about handling then you deffinately want one.

Rick

 

The last reply was to delayed turbo.

The foam is not going to provide a great deal of deadening, it is a secondary or third level of deadening for those really going over the top and then usually only a few of the best all time car audio competitors would do such a thing.

For sound deadening you would be far better off to do the regular mat and ensolite type of work. Only if you are going to extreme levels will the eurathane filling be worth your trouble and then only a few have ever done it, few world champions even.

Now that we cleared that up We are not in the marke to sell that type of product and thus cannot spend the time to write up a nice guide as it would be quite involved. If you wish to pursue ordering the materials I will send a few pics once you do and offer some advice but much of what you need to know I have already mentioned.

Please understand, I am always busy, taking time to answer questions other than car audio is a way for me to relax from our busy opperations here, it is my break time(I am the owner though

This is an intense job requiring alot of dedictation and hard work, I do not advise doing this unless you are either a total audio nut going for the best you possibly can or like our current project, a way to deadend and stiffen the car at the same time for very little added weight gain. We still spent far more time on the rest of the car for deadening than a regular mat and foam job would of taken, at least 100 hours on that alone.

If you are that serious let me know and I will do what I can to help you of course, just realize what you are getting into becuase I doubt it will be much fun and I love working on cars, lol!

Sincerely,
Rick

 

just wonder, but did you guys fill the wheel well with the stuff (space inbetween body panel and plast wheel well towards the inside of the vehicle?

 

Not a good area as nothing to contain expansion. Instead we filled the entire area above the wheel well inside the cavity between the rear seat sides and cargo area sides. It is a large area and we did it in phases so the foam could expand and cure properly. Alot of road noise travels and echos in that area so we filled it rigth up, very solid now!

Rick

 

i am getting more and more interested in this.

 

does anyone have a pic of this? I would like to see this peice.